5 | 
How to Plant Perennials 
The soil should be well worked in specially prepared 
beds 2’ to 214’ deep with good drainage. Plant food 
and plenty of humus are necessary ingredients for- suc- 
cessful perennial flower growing. Most perennials re- 
spond best if planted in a sunny location. 
The average planting distance for perennials is 1 foot 
apart. Vigorous growers like peonies and mallows require 
as much as 3 feet. 
No. 1 plants (see below) such as Iris should be plant- 
ed with the roots below the surface of the ground and 
the rhizome just on the surface. 
No. 2 plants such as peonies should be planted with 
the tips of the buds just below the surface of the ground 
(about 1”). Peonies will not bloom well if planted too 
deeply or if deprived of ample plant food. 
No. 3 plants, on which the leaves spring from a crown, 
should be planted with this crown just at the dirt line. 
No. 4 plants with a fleshy root such as Hollyhocks, 
should be planted with the tap root straight down and 
the bud just below the surface of the dirt. In all plant- 
ing, spread the roots out naturally and do not crowd. 
Bring the soil in contact with all roots and press firmly. 
Water thoroughly. 
Most winter injury to herbaceous perennials is caused 
by alternate freezing and thawing of the soil. A mulch 
of salt hay, straw or leaves applied to the ground after 
it is frozen will prevent injury to most perennials. Plants 
which maintain a crown of green leaves through the 
winter, such as Shasta Daisies, will need special protec- 
tion in the way of a mulch which will not pack down 
and cause the: leaves to rot. Some plants, such as 
chrysanthemums, will benefit from a mulch of sand. 
Most perennials make rapid growth and need dividing 
every few seasons. Large clumps produce mediocre bloom 
because the inside roots are starved and crowded. Per- 
ennials may be divided and reset in either early fall or 
spring. 
Perennials give beauty year-after-year. 
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