Fertilizers. We recommend only animal manures, compost and commercial fertilizers 
that are of organic origin such as Spoonit, listed in this catalog. In the outside garden 
fresh manure can be used on most plants that are growing vigorously as a very light 
mulch, but after flowering. Too much fertilizer before flowering may almost or wholly 
stop the flowers. When the growth of a plant becomes abnormally rapid it is unlikely to 
flower or produce fruits. 
Do not fertilize a plant in dry soil, or use any fertilizer (unless thoroly rotted in a 
compost heap) in the soil before planting bulbs, seeds or plants. Water lawns, trees, and 
plants well the day before applying fertilizer and again a few days after application. Do 
not fertilize a sick plant in order to make it well. You are more likely to make it worse 
or even kill it. Small plants and seedlings should not have too much either. Lush, rapid 
growth may be weak and “flabby.” Sturdy growth with firm structure is better. Chemical 
fertilizers are like ‘patent’? medicines. They are stimulating but often the final result is 
bad. The physical structure. of soils is the most important thing. A well drained, friable 
soil is the best. Sand and humus can be added in sufficient quantities at least in flower 
beds and the humus can be added in fields by growing cover crops. For humus, add rotted 
manure, composted weeds, grasses and leaves, leaf mould or peat. 
Compare plants with people. Both are living, organic beings. Air, water and food 
are necessary to their growth and health. But one does not give babies beefsteak, fried 
potatoes, apple pie and a cup of coffee. Nor is this a good diet for an invalid or an ill 
person, however good it may be for one in vigorous health who performs hard physical 
labor. Nor should plants be over fed or fed at all if sick or thirsty. But sin¢e one cannot 
add much rich food when potting a bulb, very good results may be obtained by a monthly 
feeding of very weak liquid manure, color of very weak tea. A more convenient way 
is to use Spoonit, which we list under Garden Supplies. 
After blooming, many neglect their bulbs. As a result the bulbs do not flower the 
following year. For success one must continue to give good culture. This is the time to 
fertilize, irrigate and cultivate frequently, until yellowing foliage indicates the bulb is 
becoming dormant. During this growth period next year’s flower buds are formed. 
Depth of planting and distance apart often cause too much concern. Bulbs usually 
have sufficient adaptability to do well under widely varying conditions If left in one 
place a few years, most bulbs adjust themselves to their preferred depth. Approximately, 
bulbs should be about 2 or 3 times their diameter apart unless their habit of growth is 
spreading—like Ranunculus. In such cases plant farther apart. Bulbs as large as Daffodils 
may be 4” to 6” deep. Bulbs with a heavy erect stem need deep planting in order to 
remain erect. Plant deeper in light sandy soils than in heavy soils and in cold climates to 
protect them from frost. 
Pests. Snails, slugs, ants, mealy bugs, thrips, aphis, leaf hoppers, mites, red spider 
and scale are among the most serious pests in the garden or on house and greenhouse 
plants. They must be controlled. 
See our listing of Insecticides under Garden Supplies. 
If you do much garden work and end the day too tired, you owe it to yourself to 
use our light weight plastic and indestructible garden hose. See the listing. It is the most 
economical of all. 
Acid and Alkaline Soils. Most piants thrive in mildly acid, neutral or mildly alkaline 
soils. But others do not have so wide a range of tolerance. Rhododendrons, Azaleas, 
Camellias, Gardenias, Zantedeschias, Caladiums (and other members of Arum family), 
Nerines, Haemanthus, Gloxinias, Begonias, Orchids and most shade loving plants require 
an acid soil. Some like Gladiolus prefer mildly acid to neutral soils; Bearded Iris do best 
in neutral to alkaline soils. The acid-alkali balance depends upon the concentration of 
hydrogen ions in a saturated solution. This is expressed in pH units. pH 7 is neutral. 
Below that the acidity increases; above it the alkalinity increases. For the mathematical, 
I will explain that the numeral is the negative logarithm denoting the concentration of 
hydrogen ions in gram atoms per liter. 
