RHODODENDRONS 
RHODODENDRON, MARS 
PLANTING: Rhododendrons are essentially 
surface rooters, therefore, plant them so 
that the top of the root ball is barely one 
inch below the soil level. We feel safe in say- 
ing that 90% of the cultural difficulties en- 
countered are directly traceable to deep 
planting. 
. Dig a hole several inches in excess of the 
ball’s depth and width, fill in around the ball 
with equal parts of peat, leaf mold, tamp with 
a shovel handle to prevent undue settling 
and water thoroughly. In a heavy clay, we 
advise that the soil be removed to at least 
twice the diameter of the ball’s width and 
replaced with a silty loam. 
MULCHING: After planting, mulch with two 
or three inches of peat, decayed leaves, or 
dried fern. This mulch has a three fold pur- 
pose. (1) It protects the roots from drying out. 
(2) It helps conserve moisture during the 
summer heat. (3) It ultimately becomes a 
source of food available to the surface feed- 
ing roots. On well established specimens, a 
top dressing of decayed cow manure, applied 
before the fall rains, will be found beneficial. 
14 
WATERING: The progenitors of most Rhodo- 
dendron hybrids are native to regions where 
the humidity is relatively high so that during 
warm summer days the plants appreciate 
overhead sprinkling night and morning to 
reduce the evaporation rate on leaf surfaces. 
They imbibe water in quantity during the 
growing season, but overwatering is dis- 
astrous if the soil has been insufficiently 
lightened and water accumulates about the 
root system. The question of adequate drain- 
age cannot be too strongly emphasized. A 
minimum of water is required during the 
dormant period which occurs in late fall. 
SHELTER: Partial shade and protection from 
cutting winds is essential. Good shade trees 
include the following: pines, oaks, larch, larger 
magnolias and the flowering fruit trees. Dense 
overhead shade is not to be recommended be- 
cause a certain amount of sunlight is neces- 
sary to “ripen” the wood in order that flower 
buds may be formed and also to prevent the 
plant from becoming leggy and drawn. 
