296 POLYNESIAN RESEARCHES. 
Early in the month of November we again took 
leave of our friends and fellow-labourers, hoping 
to revisit them when we should return to the 
Pacific; feeling, at the same time, that, with 
regard to some, perhaps many, we should not meet 
again im this world, but cheered with the anticipa- 
tion of meeting in a region where parting would 
be unknown. When our anchor was raised, and 
our sails spread, the vessel moved slowly out of the 
harbour. The day was remarkably fine, and the 
wind light, and both these afforded opportunities 
of leisurely surveying the receding shore. As the 
different sections of the bay opened and receded 
from my view, I could not forbear contrasting the 
appearance of the district at this time, with that 
presented on my first arrival in 1818. 
There was the same rich and diversified scenery, 
but, instead of a few rustic huts, a fine town, two 
iniles in length, now spread itself along the marein 
of the bay; a good road extended through the 
settlement ; nearly four hundred white, plastered, 
native cottages appeared, some on the margin of 
the sea, others enclosed in neat and well-cultivated 
gardens. A number of quays were erected along 
the shore; the schools were conspicuous; and, 
prominent above the rest, was seen their spacious 
chapel, since rebuilt, and now capable of accom- 
modating 2000 worshippers. The same individuals 
who, on the former occasion, had appeared uncivi- 
lized and almost unclothed islanders, now stood in 
crowds upon the beach, arrayed in decent apparel, 
wearing hats and bonnets of their own manufac- 
ture; while, beyond the settlement, their planta- 
tions and their gardens adorned the mountain’s 
side. These were but indications of a greater 
change among the people. All were professing | 
