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The lovely gardens you see displayed in your favorite magazines— 
the colorful borders that bloom all season—the delightful front yard 
that neighbors stop to admire—are all the result of thoughtful plan- 
ning. You too can have the satisfaction of planning your own garden 
successfully. A few suggestions and simple rules are outlined briefly 
on this page and on other pages throughout this Catalog. With these 
in mind you can plan your own landscape plantings. 
No garden is so small that it doesn’t need a planting plan. The 
smaller the garden, the more thought it takes to make good use of the 
space. If you make even a rough plan, and locate the position of each 
tree and shrub or other major planting, you will save the labor and 
time it takes to move them from place to place. 
SHADE TREES may be used to accent an entrance, subordinate a 
minor wing, bring out a main wing, or hide some of the gables 
of a too-numerously gabled house. Plant a Maple or the tall spreading 
American Elm at the back of the house to silhouette and add interest 
to its general contour or use these trees to furnish shade for family re- 
laxation. Hard Maple will provide dense shade, and in fall you'll 
have a brilliant color picture. American Elm has extra value because 
it carries its head high enough to let in the evening breezes. Use 
shade trees for your parkway planting. Usually trees along the block 
should be the same, but if this has not been done choose good trees 
of not too large size—such as Chinese Elm or Hard Maple. Shade trees 
for various purposes are listed on Pages 16 and 17. 
FLOWERING TREES are the steps between shade trees and shrubs, 
and are very effective if planted in the shrub row, for they give it 
the height it often needs. Many of them bloom before other trees are 
in leaf. Try a Redbud, or one of the Crabapples against a group of 
evergreens where the dark green will set off the colorful bloom. Plant 
a Flowering Peach to accent the gateway, or provide afternoon 
shade. Purple Fringe will help conceal the garage, and make a fluffy 
purple background for your stately white Estate Lilies. See Pages 
22 and 23 for choice selections of Flowering Trees. 
Accent TYPE EvVERGREENS are used to emphasize a doorway or 
become a dominant note in a corner planting. These moderately 
tall growing trees are frequently used on each side of a gateway 
or arch, or in a row as a background to perennial borders. For Ever- 
greens of this type see A, B, C, D, E, F on Pages 20 and 21. 
(0) Low GROWING EVERGREENS remain low enough even at maturity, 
so that they may be planted under low windows, or to make 
shrubby masses in front of the Accent Type Evergreens described 
above. With taller evergreens, they are effective corner plantings, 
and are low enough to make a grouping near the driveway or around 
a paved terrace. Some of them may be used as hedge plants. For hints 
on ‘’How to Plan Your Own Foundation Planting”’ and for low growing 
evergreens see G, H, J, K, L, M on Pages 20 and 21. 
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SPeEcIMEN EVERGREENS are so termed, because they are quite tall 
growing and wide spreading. They are best used as a single tree 
or specimen. Trees in this group should not be used as part of a foun- 
dation planting, but are very effective as lawn trees, planted in arow 
as property divisions, or used on each side of a roadway. Some vari- 
eties are very effective on the front lawn when used as living Christ- 
mas trees, and decorated for the holiday season. See Page 19. 
FLOWERING SHRUBS form a link between trees and flowers. Most 
of them bloom in spring, but you can choose varieties that will 
provide a succession of bloom from early spring to late fall, or have 
bright foliage displays in autumn and berries during the winter. In 
mild climates you may plant Azaleas, Camellias and other Broadleaf 
evergreens for winter bloom. 
Use shrubs to screen one part of the garden, as a background for 
your flower borders, as foundation plantings, or to enclose your gar- 
den with a broad border of shrubs to secure privacy. Plant them to 
shut out an unpleasant view of an alley, garage or poultry house. 
In planning the shrub border, arrange the plantings to make a few 
long, sweeping curves, or plant in straight lines. A short jagged or 
wavy edge on any border is generally not effective. If you have the 
space, the shrub border may vary from 10 feet in its narrowest place 
to 20 feet at its widest. However, if your property is small, plant the 
boundary borders in a straight line, and round the corners with a long 
sweeping curve, deep, and generously filled with colorful shrubs. 
Choose plants of various heights. Use the tallest choices in the back- 
ground—and grade downward to meet the lawn. This gradation will 
hide the bare lower portions of tall shrubs, but should not be so evenly 
graded that it will be uninteresting. Some of the small shrubs might 
be drawn back from the edge here and there, and a medium height 
one set forward. Set plants in an irregular line for added interest (but 
keep the border itself in a straight line or a long curving line). 
Another method of achieving variation, especially in a small area, 
is to plan for height at one part of the border (in the middle, at the 
ends, or to screen a building), and grade the connecting parts of the 
border to lower levels. Use at least three or more of one variety in a 
group, and the bloom will give a nice massive effect. Peonies and 
Florabunda Roses combine effectively with low shrubs. 
Wards Double-Feature Shrub Collections on the opposite page 
provide an excellent basis from which to plan. 
(6) HeEpGE is best to enclose small areas, or for formal effects, as well as 
for property borders instead of a fence. In most gardens a combina- 
tion of hedge and shrubs works out successfully. Use flowering shrub 
groups at property corners or around a featured garden spot and let 
neat ribbons of hedge tie the shrub groups together. Shrubs and 
hedge should not be mixed in the border. For Hedge plants and in- 
formation on ‘‘How to Plan a Hedge" see Pages 14 and 15. 
