If the tree is planted in a heavy, clay, hard-pan, subsoil, which 
stops moisture penetrating from rainfalls and the free entry of 
air, the application of a compost is necessary. It is advisable to 
make the hole larger and refill it with horticultural peat moss or 
well-rotted cow manure mixed with soil as it has proven to bea 
great benefit. 
ACID SOIL—Use lime. Lime is not a fertilizer, but a rock 
that contains no chemicals, and is of benefit to the soil through 
its physical and chemical effects. Should be applied once a year 
to land which is inclined to become sour. The most practical type 
of agricultural lime to use is raw ground limestone, and air- 
slacked lime. Limestone may be bought, is safe to use and is 
effective. Lime is a safe investment and should be added to the 
soil whether sweet or sour because it will improve the flavor 
and quality of the fruit. 
SWEET SOIL may be changed to acid soil by adding sulphate 
of potash or super-phosphate to the soil. Often the addition of 
leafmold, peat or saw dust, all of which possesses acid-producing 
effect, is all that is required. 
CLAY or SANDY SOIL add cow manure. 
PLANTING—Both roots and top should be pruned at time 
of planting—the neglect of this causes the loss of an immense 
number of trees. When taken from the nursery, the roots are 
more or less mutilated, therefore the balance of the tree must be 
restored by cutting off a portion of the side and top branches. 
First, before the tree is set in the ground, smoothen the 
broken or bruised end of the root with a sharp knife in a slanting 
direction, on the underside; this will cause the wound to heal 
over readily, by throwing out plenty of fibrous roots at the end. 
Do as little root pruning as possible at planting time. The largest 
possible absorbing area is needed to get the water and nutrients 
into the tree so that it will get off to a good start. 
Use good top soil for filling in the bottom of the hole and 
around the roots, where it does most good. The tree should be 
perpendicular or lean slightly towards the wind; this makes it 
grow straight. Arrange the roots in their natual position. Then 
fill in fine mellow soil, woking it thoroughly in among all the 
roots with the hand so that no air pockets remain. The filling soil 
should be dry rather than wet so that the soil will sift into the 
crannies. When the roots are barely covered, sprinkle on a half 
bucket of water to moisten the soil and settle it among the roots. 
Then fill soil to top and press down the earth around the tree 
with the foot—then pour a bucket of water to help settle the tree 
in the ground. But the soil on the surface should be left loose to 
prevent evaporation. The application of water before the top soil 
is applied is useful but not always necessary. It is a good idea to 
leave a slight dish effect to collect water from the spring rains. A 
covering of coarse manure, straw, mash, or hay, during the first 
season will effectually prevent injury from drought and is a 
benefit at all times. Avoid overwatering as roots will drown 
Apply as much water as the ground will absorb and not any 
more. Water trees once a day during the first week to give the 
trees a good start if the soil is not frozen. 
DEPTH TO PLANT—AIl fruit trees should be planted with 
the graft one inch above the surface. The graft is the joining union 
between the trunk’s base and root system. It is easily recognized 
by its onion-like shape. Some grafts are large, while others are 
hard to detect. It is of minor importance if you cannot locate the 
graft. The graft is emphasized to indicate how deep the tree 
should be planted, since most amateurs bury the trunk and the 
tree dies. The apple is the only variety whose graft must be 
planted above the ground level to prevent new roots from devel- 
oping above the union and destroying the dwarfing influence. If 
the graft is buried, roots will form above the graft and the tree 
will develop into its original standard form. 
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