CARE OF THE SEED 
As the peds develop it is wise to inspect the stalks often. Sometimes accidents happen and 
pods are broken off—if they are without stems and have had a month or so to grow they can be 
finished (ripened) either by placing in damp sand in a shaded spot or left to finish in the pod on 
a shelf out of the sun’s rays. Sugar and water, and vitamin B! and water have been used to 
rpen pods on stalks that are a long way frcm ripening. It is wise, if this method is used, to 
occasionally cut the bottom of the stalk diagonally weekly to prevent rotting and to allow maximum 
absorption of food and water into the stalk. If one is to be away when seeds will ripen small pieces 
of cheese cloth may be tied around each pod to prevent seed from falling to the ground and 
being mixed or lost. Or if the time is about ready for pods to open the various crosses may be 
gathered and put into sacks to let dry, but the seeds should be removed from the pods as soon as 
possible when the pods are brown, cracking or dry. A little mould on the seeds will do no harm, 
although this mould may be removed by rubbing the seeds between one’s hands. If one lives in 
a warm climate where little winter cold or snow is experienced seed may be planted immediately, 
but in colder climates it is wise to store the seed until October before planting, or at least until it 
has had a good drying out period, otherwise the seed may germinate immediately and be too 
weak to withstand hard freezing. 
KEEPING POLLEN 
I use a long narrow box containing small envelopes of typing paper (half sheets) folded to fit 
into the box, and pollen is saved as soon as ihe dwarfs start to bloom. If this is done one need 
not worry about having dry pollen, or pollen of a certain variety that has long since stopped 
blooming, for pollen on their stamens properly dried and kept at ordinary room temperature will 
keep at least 6 weeks. Rather porous paper should be used—heavy, slick paper or waxed paper 
should not be employed unless ihe stamens are first thoroughly dried in an open dish or other 
place where air circulates freely around them. If only a smal! number of plants are to be used in 
breeding capsules may be used to store pollen, and the pollen could be scraped off into these— 
throwing away the somewhat moist stamens. Such capsules to be stored in refrigerators if a longer 
period of potency is desired, but for all practical purposes six weeks will pretty well cover the 
blooming period of bearded iris in most sections of the world, although there will be off-season 
bloom in some localities, and if pollen is gathered anew as these bloom, and dated, hybridizing 
tight be accomplished almost any season of ithe year. 
CARE OF SELECTIONS 
If an unsually fine seedling is selected it is wise to dig, divide and line this out the first year 
if there are more than two rhizomes and if maximum increase is desired. The best possible care 
should be given to seedlings of high merit. Some will prove to be of value only as breeding 
iris, and some prove never to be as fine as they were in their maiden-blooming. It is sometimes 
wise to retain pieces of seedlings used for breeding until their offspring are seen, for some prove 
very fine parents although they might not be, in themselves, anything ultimate, although usually 
it is found the seedling outstanding enough to have been worthy of a name is the one that 
produces the quality seedlings. But let us now consider some of the various color classes, and who 
knows the dreams one may conjur of new and unusual colors. And who shall predict what breaks 
may come or what the iris of ten years hence will be? 
WHITES 
We have a goodly supply of fine white iris, and right now there are new ones that promise 
‘to just about fill every requirement. Purissima has been an important parent in this color class, 
and its seedlings, Snow Flurry, Lady Boscawen, and others have contributed greatly to modern 
whites. Snow Carnival, Gloriole, Cloud Castle and Easter Morn and her children will all be found 
to be most useful in this color class, and Azure Skies if bred to “leggy” iris will produce some fine 
things. Perhaps the finest breeder in this color ihe past few years is Snow Flurry and it is used 
more than any other iris, surely, in the quest of this color as well as other colors. 
BLUES 
The blues have been somewhat closely linked with whites, and even Great Lakes is closely 
related to Purissima. We cannot deny the paramount part Dominion plays in this color class. 
Perhaps we have overlooked the possibilities of ihe use of varieties close to the species, such as 
Sensation, in our hybridizing work. Purissima again has been of high value here, and her children, 
by the use of Capitola pollen, are now numerous and some are quite fine. Heavy with Purissima 
blood are both Pierre Menard and Cahokia with the latter giving exceptional seedlings—some 
very blue and we hear of fine things from it when used with New Snow. Helen McGregor is going 
to be a fine parent in this color, as well as whites, and we hear of some fine things from Helen 
McGregor by the use of Blue Rhythm, Blue Valley and Cahokia pollens. Reports have come from 
H. Senior Fothergill of London, England (Sec’y of the English Iris Society) of fine seedlings from 
White City x Sea Lark. One of the finest seedling I had last year was a pale blue-white with a 
deeper flush in the standards and falls (horking back to the coloring of Sea Lark) from Sky Tint x 
Sea Lark, so it is apparent that Sea Lark is going to prove a fine parent for new and unusual 
colorings in blues. We liked the shape and coloring of Tompkins’ Windsor; his Consolation and 
Courtesy should prove useful parents. We would suggest the pursuit of breeding records of Jane 
Phillips, Mrs. Douglas Pattison, and other new blues for clues to fine parents in this color range. 
Undoubtedly the finest seedlings of different breeders may be used together with pleasing results, 
and then if the hybridizer will carry the seedlings to the F 2 generation success is assured. 
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