HYBRIDS 
Hybrids are those varieties obtained by crossing two distinct species within the same family. 
For instance Wm. Mohr is from a tall bearded crossed with pollen of a species Oncocyclus. Aside 
from the great beauty of many of these is the possibility of bringing in new characteristics into 
the tall bearded fcmily. Although many of the hybrids lack vigor if they can be induced to seed 
production, or have fertile pollen, their offspring, generally, are highly vigorous and show tre- 
mendous increase. Who could ask for a better grower, ordinarily, than Elmohr? Or Lady Mohr? 
Useful because of their fertile pollen and the unusual seedlings they produce are: Ib-Mac, Capitola 
and Joppa Parrot, although the later is extremely difficult to grow in cold and damp sections. 
I. hoogiana sets some seed with tall bearded pollen; cnd we have Hoogie Boy and Hoogsan as 
introduced children—both of which are fertile pod and pollen parents. Narrowness of falls and 
weak stems are to be avoided in seedlings derived from I. hoogiana, however. We are introducing 
three iris of hybrid blood this year and hope in time they will prove of value in hybridizing 
work although they are, in themselves, fine garden subjects. Madam Mohr is the first seedling 
we have heard of from Morera. Last year I had a rather unexpected seedling No. 50-11 from 
Deep Buttercup cnd Tompkins’ 43-20: (4E38: Wm. Mohr x Mussolini) x (Golden Spike), a deep 
rich mahogany red self—very large, tall and well bronched. Where might the red coloring have 
come from? Deep Buttercup being a grandchild of Mauna Loa, and 43-20 a grandchild of ,Matula; 
perhaps the coloring could have come from either or both. It may be of great value in red 
breeding. This was one of very few seedlings from Deep Buttercup, however, that was worthy 
of being saved, so many of them being too long and narrow in the falls. 
FRAGRANCE 
Rare is the tall bearded iris without some fragrance, yet some, and especially those with 
oncocyclus blood, have no fragrance. Snow Flurry with her delicate orange-blosson perfume and 
Mary Clotilde with her spicy fragrance are good examples of a quality worthy of consideration 
by the hybridizer. Here are a few varieties with delightful perfume and may be employed to 
breed for this quality: Song of Gold, Shining Waters, Sylvia Murray, Sea Lark, Pink Ruffles, 
Violet Symphony, Easter Morn, Misty Gold, Rubient, Katherine Fay, Gloriole, Purissima and its 
derivities and many others including those mentioned above. Iris descending from I. pallida 
inherit a lovely perfume reminiscent of pressed concord grapes, yet when this blood is mixed 
with other tall bearded strains rare combinations of odors may be expected. 
DISEASES 
Almost every known plant has its ills, its diseases, yet, if plants are given proper food elements, 
and clean cultivation chances for health is assured for iris are of easy growth and culture. Tall 
bearded iris are sun-lovers and while they seem to grow in shaded locations they do not always 
bloom well, increase as they should, and may be subject to rot. A goodly number of fanciers 
“swear by wood ashes as a preventative of rot. Let us consider several diseases: 
LEAF SPOT 
This is a condition that spots the leaves unsightly, but does little real damage, unless the 
infestation should become extremely heavy. This condition usually starts among crowded plants 
and may follow a period of damp weather. Before the infestation becomes heavy just pulling or 
cutting off the infected leaves will stop its spread, and then, as soon as possible, the plants 
should be thinned out. 
BACTERIAL LEAF BLIGHT (OR ROT) 
Moisture and heat combine to nurture the virus, or bacteria, that causes the. disease. Just 
what can be done is often problematical since large plantings can neither be lifted and dried, or 
kept under constant vigil, especially if rainfall is heavy. If possible, however, the affected leaves 
and rhizomes should be cut away making sure to sterilize or disinfect tools used before cutting 
into other plants. Affected plants may be dusted with Gypsum, or washed off with solutions of 
either lysol (1 teaspoon to the pint of water) or potassium permanganate (enough to make the 
water a deep red-purple. The slimy leaves and portions of the rhizomes affected should be destroyed. 
Some plants may be lifted and dried to save them, planting after the damp weather has ceased. 
SOFT ROT 
This disease appears in late spring and during the summer. It is brought on by heat and 
moisture. Insuring good drainage in the soil, clean cultivation and planting rhizomes rather shallow 
will help to guard against this type of rot. If rhizomes need cutting, to save portions of a 
plant, this should be done with a sharp knife—allowing the exposed portions to remain so for 
several days and sunlight may cure the “wound”. The cut rhizome might also be treated with 
any of the three previously mentioned ‘‘disinfectants”. 
WINTER ROT (BOTRITIS) 
Injury from this type of rot (mould) will be found in the early spring when dead leaves are 
being removed in the garden clecn-up. As with other types of rot the affected portions should be 
cut away—being careful not to drop the black spores (mould) or these may spread the disease 
to other sections of the garden. Treat the cut away portions with above ‘remedies’, and healthy 
cut portions should be left exposed to sunlight. , 
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