LAURENS KOSTER (See Page 16) 
NARCISSUS FOR 
INDOOR BLOOMS 
Almost any of the Daffodils listed in this 
booklet may be forced to bloom indoors; 
however, the shorter stemmed varieties are 
most suitable. 
Pot the bulbs as soon as received in a good 
loam soil. Some sand and peat moss mixed 
with the soil will be beneficial, also a small 
amount of bone meal; about two pounds to 
a bushel of soil. Bulbs should be potted shal- 
low, tops of bulbs being about level with the 
top of the pot. 
O!d pots should be washed thoroughly, new 
onzs should be soaked. Place a few pieces of 
charcoal or fragments of broken pots over 
drainage hole. A little ground pzat in the bot- 
tom regulates drainage and retains moisture. 
Bury the pots outside under six inches of 
soil or ashes, water well. In 10 to 12 weeks 
move to the cellar, or any cool dark place for 
about two weeks. For a succession of bloom 
bring pots in at weekly intervals, bringing in 
the earliest varieties first. 
Tops should now be several inches above 
the soil and buds showing. Pots may now be 
brought inside to a temperature of 50 to 60 
degrees. Later when the flower buds are well 
advanced the temperature may be increased 
to not over 65. To put them where the heat 
is greater may cause the buds to come 
“blind’’. A little liquid manure once a week 
will hasten the blooming and improve the 
quality. 
NO FLOWERS 
THIS YEAR 
Our big healthy Northwest grown Daffo- 
dil bulbs will almost always give good blooms 
the first year regardless of the care they may 
receive in the home garden. Occasionally our 
friends will run into trouble during the fol- 
lowing years. 
The nourishment and flower bud for the 
next year come from the leaves of the plant. 
Cutting the foliage before it is fully ripened 
is the most common cause of bloom failure. 
Digging the bulbs before the foliage turns 
yellow and lays flat on the ground will also 
spell trouble. 
The Narcissus bulb fly is our worst insect 
enemy. This big fat lazy fly, resembling a 
bumble bee, appears in April, May or June. 
Dusting with 5% DDT or Chlordane should 
prevent any fly damage; apply at ten day 
intervals during these three months. Be sure 
to get the dust around the base of the plant 
where the fly lays eggs. 
A fungus sometimes attacks the root- 
plate and the bases of outer bulb scales, caus- 
ing what is known as Basal Rot. The decayed 
portion does not become slimy or damp, but 
rather dry and spongy. This disease is much 
more prevalent in wet soils than in well 
drained ones, and frequently disappears when 
bulbs are transferred to well drained ground. 
