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Daffodils and Narcissi 
The beauty of Daffodils and Narcissi is unquestioned and these flowers now form a leading 
feature in almost every Spring garden. Every Gardener should realize the enormous amount of 
intense pleasure that can so easily be obtained from the cultivation ofa batch of Daffodils or Narcissi. 
Indication and origin of the name Daffodil and Narcissus. The use of the terms Nar- 
cissus and Daffodils is being confused a great many times. There is a tendency to apply ,,Daffodil”’ 
to varieties of which the trumpet or cup is as large or larger than the perianth, while the name 
Narcissus indicates varieties having small cups. The term Narcissus however, is correct for all 
different types of Daffodils and Narcissi. 
The name Daffodil is from an interesting origin. In the fifteenth century, the words affadile 
and affodylle applied for asphodel, a Narcissus with a large cup. In 1538, Turner writes about 
affadyll and daffadilly. Ten years later he says in his ,,Names of Herbes” that an English whyte 
affodil is a Duche Daffodil. He uses the forms affodil and daffodil in 1551. The name Daffodil was 
then used by Gerarde, when he used this term in his Herbal. 
Other forms of Daffodil have been: aphrodillus, affodillus, daffodilly, daffadyl, affodyll, 
daffodyll, pseudo-narcissus and bastarde-narcissus. 
The origin of the term Narcissus has not been connected with so much variance. It is accepted 
that the name has been deduced from the Greek verb Narkaoo, (lat. obtorpesco), which means to 
narcotize, as the flower was considered to do so. There is also a Greek mythe that accounts for the 
name, in which Narkissos is the chief character. 
Naturalizing Daffodils and Narcissi in Grass etc. All Daffodils and Narcissi are suitable 
for naturalizing but in very heavy soils, preference should be given to stronger growing sorts i.e. 
Trumpet varieties and many Large Cupped sorts. They are all admirably adapted for grassy slopes 
and banks, where they should be freely planted. A splendid effect is obtained when Trumpet and 
other varieties are grouped separately, scattered on the ground and planted where they fall. 
Soil and its Treatment. Daffodils and Narcissi will thrive in any well cultivated and drained 
garden soil. In preparing the ground for planting, dig deeply and if well rotted stable or cow 
manure is available this may advantageously be dug in 18 to 20 inches deep so as not to come into 
immediate contact with the bulbs. Never use fresh manure of any kind at planting time. On poor 
and dry sandy soils we recommend a dressing of sulphate of potash at a rate of about | oz. per square 
yard to be sprinkled over the surface of the ground after planting. 
Growing Daffodils in the greenhouse or indoors. All types of Daffodils and Narcissi 
are suitable for this purpose. Pot up the bulbs on arrival and if ordinary pots are used take a good 
loamy soil, adding sufficient sand and peat to keep the mixture open. A light dusting of bone meal 
is also useful. Pot firmly in well crocked pots. For bowls without drainage holes use a good fibre. 
Plunge the pots and/or bowls in the coolest place of your garden and in the absence of garden space 
the pots may be placed in a cool airy cellar (35-40° F.) where watering from time to time is necessary. 
When the shoots are about 4 inches long and the flower buds well out of the neck of the bulbs, the 
pots may be removed into a warm room. Heat should be gradually increased from 50° to max. 60° F. 
It is advisable to remove the foliage of the sideshoots, if these do not show a flower bud. Just 
before the buds are open, water can be spread lightly, when they are in bloom, less water should 
be applied. 
Revision of the Classification of Daffodils. In this catalog we have adopted the revised 
system for the new R.H.S. classification of Daffodils and Narcissi formally approved by the General 
Bulb Growers Society of Haarlem (Holland) and the Daffodil Societies of America, Canada, 
Australia, Tasmania and New Zealand. 
The principal changes on comparing the old system with the new one are as follows: 
The former Leedsii, Incomparabilis and Barrii Divisions are transferred into two Divisions: 
viz. Division II Large-Cupped Narcissi with its sub-divisions a, b. c, d and Division III Small- 
Cupped Narcissi with its sub-divisions a, b, c and d. 
The whole Genus is now classified in eleven Divisions as follows: 
Ia. Yellow Trumpets — Ib. Bicolor Trumpets — Ic. White Trumpets — IIa. Large-Cupped, yellow 
perianth, colored cup or corona — IIb. Large-Cupped, white perianth, colored cup or corona — 
IIc. Large-Cupped, white perianth, white cup or corona-—IId. Large-Cupped, not falling in a, b, 
or c. — IIIa. Small-Cupped, yellow perianth, colored cup or corona — IIIb. Small-Cupped, white 
perianth, colored cup or corona — IIIc. Small-Cupped, white perianth, white cup or corona — IIId. 
Small-Cupped, not falling in a, b, or c— IV. Double varieties — V. Triandrus Narcissi — VI. Cycla- 
mineus Narcissi — VII. Jonquilla Narcissi - VIII. Tazetta Hybrids (Poetaz etc.) — IX. Poeticus 
Narcissi — X. Species and Wild forms and Hybrids — XI. Miscellaneous Narcissi not falling into 
any of the foregoing Divisions. 
