10. DIGGING. It is better to dig while the foliage is green. as one 
can then determine the diseased plants and throw them out. The bulbs 
also lift out of the ground better than when the tops have died. Cut the 
tops off immediately when dug as close to the bulb as is possible. Let the 
bulbs dry in shallow boxes, not over three inches deep, in an airy, cool 
place, then remove the old bulbs, roots and bulblets. This we call “cleaning.” 
11. STORAGE CARE. Storage care is about the most important part 
of producing healthy, disease-free glads. The bulbs should be thoroughly 
dried as rapidly as possible after digging. Within four to six weeks they 
should be cleaned. By that we mean, the old bulbs are removed. the dirt 
sifted out. and the bulblets taken care of. When cleaned they are then 
ready for the winter storage. The storage should have ventilation to prevent 
mildewing and the development of diseases. There are several serious 
diseases which develop largely in storage conditions if they are not right. 
Air circulation has much to do with the suppression of disease. The tem- 
perature should be as nearly 35 to 40 degrees as is possible. Altho they 
will keep nicely in much higher temperatures. They must be protected 
against the temperature dropping below 32 degrees, as freezing destroys 
the eyes and causes the bulbs to soften and rot. Too high temperatures 
are not good as they hasten sprouting, and often dries the bulbs until they 
are as hard as tho petrified. If the temperatures are likely to be above 
the 50’s they should be dusted with DDT of 5% strength. Dust the boxes 
or trays thoroughly. and leave it on all season until planting time. This 
is for the control and suppression of thrips, which become active and multi- 
ply in temperatures above high fifties. Some advocate the use of Naptha- 
lene flakes, as we all did once upon a time. However DDT is fully as 
effective. if not more so, than the flakes, minus the dangers which attend 
the use of Napthalene. 
12, FURTHER CHEMICAL ATTENTION. (1) At Planting Time. Every 
bulb and bulblet planted should be treated at the time of planting. Such 
treatment should be designed to resist or defeat the development of 
disease and thrips. There are many recommended treatments, and there 
are numerous scientists experimenting widely in an effort to know more 
about gladiolus pests, and their control. The simplest treatment; most 
available and usable by the amateur and back-door gardner is Lysol. Mix 
it at the rate of 1% tablespoonsful to the gallon of water, and leave the 
bulbs in it from three to six hours. 
(2) In The Field. The only way to be sure that thrips will not damage 
your flowers is to dust or spray the growing plant with 5% DDT or some 
other efficient insecticide. Begin application when the plants are about six 
inches tall, and repeat every ten days or two weeks, and oftener if rain 
comes sooner and wash the application off, or thrips damage becomes evident. 
With these treatments there is little likelihood of other insect damage... 
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