How to Grow 
Exhibition Begonias 
For early flowering put tubers during March and April in a 
warm place in open trays at a temperature of 60 to 65 degrees. 
Moisten slightly once in a while until they come to life. As they 
begin sprouting, plant in flats in a mixture of peat and sand, 
leaf mold and sand, or peat alone, all of which are good media for 
developing a root system. Plant three to four inches apart one- 
half inch below the surface. Keep uniformly moist but not too 
wet, at a temperature as above and well lighted, until three or 
four inches of growth develop. Then, if all danger of frost is 
past they may be planted outdoors in a permanent location, or 
potted. The front of the plant is always where the tips of the 
leaves are pointing. Often if dormant tubers are planted in open 
ground, especially if it is too cold or wet, they may rot in the 
ground, or the plants will be facing in haphazard ways. Started 
first in flats, they will develop a splendid root system which is 
necessary for the forming of fine specimen plants. 
Transplanting into open ground or pots should be done before 
the plants get too large and crowded, being careful not to dis- 
turb the root system more than necessary. Any light soil with 
a lot of humus will grow good Begonias; heavy soils should have 
a liberal application of well rotted manure, leaf mold or sand 
thoroughly mixed. Very light soil will benefit with an application 
of peat, leaf mold or well rotted manure. A lighter soil should be 
used in pots than when planted outdoors. A shady spot should 
be selected outdoors, such as under trees or the north side of a 
building where the direct sunlight: cannot reach them. 
For well-grown specimens additional feeding will be required; 
fish or cottonseed meals give fine results. Mix these with the soil 
that goes into the lower half of the pots, about a tablespoonful 
for a six-inch pot. For outdoor planting a tablespoonful mixed 
with the soil in the lower half of the planting hole for small 
plants, additional for larger plants. If the fertilizer comes in 
contact with the stems or leaves it may cause a mold to develop 
which will eventually destroy the plant. 
After transplanting, gentle overhead watering is best until 
plants are well established. Too heavy watering during the young 
stage may pack’ the soil, thereby causing it to go sour. Later, 
when the plants are in full growth, they will require a steady 
supply of moisture as the root system is shallow and any drying 
out will give a setback to normal development. 
In autumn, when the foliage turns yellow or is blackened by 
the first frost, take out, wash off all soil, taking care not to bruise 
the tubers, dry in sunlight for a day or two until thoroughly dry; 
then store in open flats in a cool, dry place. See that all particles 
of the old stem are removed until healthy tissue shows; other- 
wise, if left on, they will decay and destroy the tuber. 
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