The very best time of the year to make a new lawn is 
early in the fall because of ample rainfall, continued cool 
weather and the winter killing-of many weeds. The second 
best season is very early spring (March and April) because 
there is sufficient rainfall and cool weather to start the young 
grass quickly. Spring seeding however must compete with 
weed seeds in the soil and is sometimes damaged by hot 
dry weather before it is thoroughly established. 
Preparing the Soil 
Preparation of the soil is the most important part of lawn 
making and should have the most careful attention because 
no amount of effort spent after a lawn is made can equal the 
results of thorough tillage before the seed is sown. 
A successful lawn requires at least 2 to 4 inches of good 
quality top soil possessing the organic matte: and plant foods 
necessary for sturdy growth of the grasses. However six 
inches or more of thoroughly prepared finely pulverized and 
fertilized top soil would be ideal. 
If existing top soil is of fair quality and at least 2 to 4 
inches deep it should not be necessary to spread additional 
top soil. It is essential though to apply a good lawn fer- 
tilizer which is high in phosphate (such as bone meal.-or the 
chemical lawn foods) at the rate of 2 to 4 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. 
In addition to this an application of a one inch layer of 
humus or a two inch layer of well rotted manure (it must be 
very well rotted to be weed free) is necessary to supply 
sufficient organic matter. 
After spreading the plant food and humus materials evenly, 
they must then be spaded into and mixed with the top soil 
to a depth of about six inches depending on the quality of 
the sub-soil and the depth of the top soil. When this newly 
processed top soil is completely broken up and thoroughly 
mixed it should be raked and rolled in both directions until 
there are no uneven places. A good seed bed has now been 
prepared and is ready for seeding. 
Sowing the Seed 
Sow at the rate of 1 lb. to 200 sq. ft. broadcasting half of 
the seed in one direction and the other half at right angles. 
If the soil is dry the surface may be raked very lightly cov- 
ering seed not over 1% in. and being extremely careful to 
avoid “bunching” the seed. Rolling is desirable but only 
practical if the soil is sufficiently dry so that the seed does 
not stick to the roller. Many successful lawns are made 
without raking or rolling in the seed by depending upon the 
rain or watering to pack the soil firmly about the seeds. If 
watering is once begun however the soil must be kept damp 
continuously or the seed may sprout and die off before it has 
rooted. Clipping should begin when the grass is about 3 
inches high but should not be cut closer than 2 inches. 
Re-Seeding Old Lawns 
Thin turf or lawns with bare spots can be rebuilt by 
raking lightly so that the existing grass is not damaged and 
then seeding as though making a new lawn. Another satis- 
factory method is to mix seed with top soil or sow the seed 
and then cover lightly with top soil. In either case the top 
soil should be free from weed seeds. If the seed is sown 
early in March it can be broadcast without raking or rolling 
because the ground is “‘open’’ and the late wet snows will 
carry it in. 
Fertilizing 
Timely and ample applications of fertilizers have double 
advantages. Very early feeding whether Spring or Fall 
forces growth of the grass during its most natural growing 
seasons, thereby helping it to crowd out crab-grass and more 
easily survive hot dry summer weather. A strong healthy 
turf also stands the rigors of winter so much better. Fertilizer 
materials are most accurately and easily applied by using a 
fertilizer spreader. Most materials should be applied when 
the grass is dry at the rate of 2 to 4 lbs. per 100 sq. ft. then 
watered in. Lawns that are thoroughly established and are 
thriving should be fertilized once every two years but aver- 
age lawns require at least one feeding a year. 
Rolling 
During the winter the alternate freezing and thawing have 
played ‘‘tug-o-war”’ with the little grass plants in your lawn, 
heaving them out of the ground so that they are only partly 
rooted. It is therefore extremely necessary to roll your 
lawn after the frost is out of the ground and while it is still 
wet but not soggy. This smooths out uneven places caused 
by the frost and puts the grass roots back where they can 
quickly begin producing a luxuriant lawn. 
Weed Control 
One of the best weed controls is a good heavy turf, well 
fertilized very early, cut not shorter than 2 inches and kept 
seeded to grass so there will be practically no space for 
weeds to grow. Crab-grass which is perhaps the most diffi- 
cult weed to combat should be killed by chemicals during 
June or July. Other chemicals such as 2-4-D are available 
for clearing lawns of dandelions, plantain and most other 
lawn weeds. 
Soil pH 
For most Maryland lawns the pH values (acidity or 
alkalinity) should be between 6.0 and 7.5, that is ranging 
between slightly acid to slightly alkaline, 7 being neutral. 
The grasses which thrive best in this climate succeed best in 
this pH range. If the soil is strongly acid (pH 4.5 to 5.0) an 
application of 10 lbs. of ground limestone per 100 sq. ft. will 
reduce the acidity to approximately pH 6. Lime should not 
be used on lawns unless an actual soil test indicates exces- 
sive acidity. 
Moss 
The presence of moss is often considered an indication of 
acid soil, but it is more often the result of low fertility. 
During March apply nitrate of soda (1 lb. per 100 sq. ft.) 
This will kill the moss but not injure the grass. In about two 
weeks the dead moss may be raked from the lawn and if 
there are bare spots they should be reseeded at once. 
