830 POLYNESIAN RESEARCHES. 
CHAP. XIV. 
Voyage to Raiatea—Landing at Tipaemau—Description 
of the islands—Arrival at Vaoaara—Singular reception 
—Native salutations—Improvement of the settlement— 
General state of society—Former modes of living— 
Proposed improvement in the native dwellings—Me- 
thod of procuring lime from the coral-rock—First 
plastered house in the South Sea Islands—Progress of 
improvement — Ivregularity of the buildings — Public 
road—Effect on the surrounding country—Duration of 
native habitations—Building for public worship—Di- 
vision of public labour—Manner of fitting up the inte- 
rior—Satisfaction of the people—Chapel in Raiatea— 
Native chandeliers—Evening services. 
Durine the first years of our establishment in Hua- 
hine, frequent voyages to the adjacent islands were 
necessary ; and, early in 1819, circumstances ren- 
dered it expedient that we should revisit Raiatea. 
As we expected to be absent for several weeks, 
Mrs. Barffand Mrs. Ellis accompanied us; Mr. Ors- 
mond, who had visited Huahine, was returning to his 
station, and we embarked in his boat, although it 
was scarcely large enough to contain our party and 
half a dozen native rowers. The morning on 
which we sailed was fine; the sea gently rippled 
with the freshening breeze, which was fair and 
steady, without bemg violent. Our voyage was 
pleasant; and soon after two in the afternoon 
of the same day, we entered an opening in the 
reef, a few miles to the northward of that lead- 
ing to Opoa. This entrance is called by the 
