-Auausr 6, 1906 
the turning down and covering of weeds 
for neatness sake, but an even thorough 
soaking of the soil, even distribution of 
manures and soils to improve the general 
‘staple if possible, and to break any hard 
layers that may have been formed during 
‘summer by the shallower operations of 
hoeing, and which are likely to prevent 
access of air and water to all parts of the 
beds, 
' In digging among plants great care 
should be taken to avoid damaging the 
roow Weeds growing near plants should 
be skimmed off and dug deeply into the 
beds outside the root radius. 
The operator should hive a narrow 
trench in front to the full depth of 
the digging, into which manure, weeds, 
and small prunings, etc., cau be easily 
turned, An even, but not smooth surface 
should be aimed at. 
CARNATIONS 
will require attention in striking, tying 
and thinning: Where the plants are en- 
circled with mes. wire, thinning only is 
‘necessary. The tree varieties develop 
muny side growths, all of which, if allowed 
to remain, would undaly crow the plants 
and tend to the prodluccion of inferior 
bluoms Inside shoots should generally 
be removed when thinning. Cuttings 
made from such shoots, planted firmly in 
sandy soil, are likely to strixe, and will 
grow into good plants for next season. 
Soot, if worked into the soil aroun 1 the 
plants, will greatly aid the flowering and 
assist in keeping the plants healthy anl 
free from slugs, etc. 
DAHLIA TUBERS 
may be lifted and stored in a dry shed 
during winter, If the ground is,of a 
nature that holds moisture, it is safer to 
lift them now than in spring. The prep:- 
ration of the beds for next season’s plant- 
ing can also be proceeded with. If avail- 
able, new gronnd should be selected, but 
if not, new soil and manure should be 
well worked into the beds before the dry 
weather begins, 
Propagating Dahlias 
I have heard several complaints this 
season about the tubers of last year’s new 
varieties failing to break, and [ have. 
examined some tubers which have-been 
well developed and quite plunp, with 
new roots starting, but no symptoms of 
starting into growth. It has been stated 
that the fault is caused by the plants 
being propagated from tops instead of 
cuttings taken off close to the tubers. 
It is rather a difficult matter to ex- 
plain. Ido not think that there is any 
grower who would wilfully send plants 
out to trade growers that he knew would 
be of no use for stock the following 
season, and I may get into trouble if I 
say it is the fault of the propagators. 
I have had some considerable experience 
among dahlias, and haye found that 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 5 
under the most ordinary circumstances 
some tubers may fail to start in Spring, 
especially those that are strusk late in 
the season. 
Yet, on the other hand, I have taken 
the tops off new varieties received in 
May, rooted them, and they mide useful 
plants for stock the following season. 
It may be unnecessary to say that when 
taking the tops for cuttings they must be 
cut off quite close below a pair of leaves : 
but this is one point, and the most im- 
portant is that the lateral shoots which 
show at the base of the leaves must not 
be cut off. I have made a practise of putt- 
ing these cuttings in without renoving 
the basal leaves, putting them into the 
soil only just deep enough to keep them 
firm, or sometimes it my have bean 
necessary to use a stick to hold the cutt- 
ings in position. 
When it was first suggeste] to me to 
propagate from the tops of young plants, 
I certainly thought that if they did root 
they would be of no use as stock plants 
for next season; yet experiencs proved 
that they were. 
stances that failures are caused from the 
lateral shoots at the base having been 
removed when making cuttings, but this 
is one sure cause, and with young and 
inexperience1 propagators this miy be 
done without any idea of the mischief 
they are doing. 
I would recommen] anyone interestel 
to try a few tops this season, for the pur- 
pose of proving my remarks. Put so.ne 
cuttings in without removing the leaves 
and sile laterals at the base, and others 
in the orthodox way of taking the lower 
leaves off, taking ths side shoots with 
them, 
I have extenlel this note, but itis a 
most important matter. One grower tells 
me that after buying last year’s novelties 
and cataloguing them, he has had to buy 
ali nis plants of several sorts to execute 
orders. — Metropolitan in Horticultural 
Advertiser, ; ; 
The Bouvardia. 
(By J. Cronin). 
The bouvardia is a dwarf, shrubby, 
perennial plant specially suitable for 
planting in small gardens. The original 
species are natives of Mexico, and have 
been grown as greenhouse plants in Eng- 
land for more than a century, one species 
triphylla—still to be found in our gardens 
—flowering for the first time in 1794. 
The types are rarely grown now, having 
been superseded by varieties raised by 
hybridists that are superior in every way. 
The flowers are larger, the habit of growth 
larger and sturdier, and the colors much 
more varied. 
In Auscralia the bouvardia is practically 
a hardy plant, thriving well under the 
ordinary conditions that govern border 
cultivation. The plants are in some dis- 
tricts denuded of their foliage and the 
growths cut back by frost, but under fair 
conditions invariably break away into 
growth again in the following spring. 
It may not be in all in- . 
For effect in the garden during autumn 
and early winter there are few shrubs 
more valuable than the bouvardia, the 
neat little bushes producing quantities 
of showy flowers for-a long time. The 
flowers are valuable for table and other 
room decoration, the colors of the best 
varieties being bright and distinct; some 
varieties ara very fragrant ; and the whole 
class is specially valued by florists on 
account of the suitability ot the blooms 
for bouquets and sprays for personal 
adornment. Bouvardias are propagated 
from cuttings of the young shoots taken 
from plants forced into early growth in 
hot-houses. They require bottom heat to 
insure any certainty of the cuttings root- 
ing. Cuttings of the roots will also pro- 
duce plants, and a gardener without con- 
veniences such as hot-houses or hot-bed 
frames would be more successful in such 
mode of propagation Plants can be pur- 
chased cheaply from nurserymen, and in 
the winter could be sent in safety by post 
t> a long distance. Any fair garden soil 
will suit borvardias, that of a rath r re- 
tentive nature being most suitable. In 
very light sandy soils, some loam or clay 
should be added for these plants. They 
will eventually grow into bushes about 
4 ft. in height and 2 ft. in diameter, 
except in the case of Humboldtii corim- 
byflora, which is of larger and_ luoser 
growth. Where the plants are required 
specially for supplying cut flowers, they 
may be planted in narrow beds and prv- 
tected from frosts by a shading of hessian 
or other material. In providiag soil fur 
the reception of bouvardias only well- 
decayed manure should be used, the 
- addition of a little bonedust and fairly 
deep working being advisable, as under 
fair conditions the plants way last aud 
give good results for possibly twenty ye vrs. 
Early spring is the best time to plant ; if 
late frosts are usually experienced, plant 
later or shelter against frost temporarily. 
The plants shoull be pruned fairly 
closely each year. If unsightly, some of 
the frost-affected growths may be removed 
in winter, but it is not wise to cnt back 
to living wood until spring. Thinning out ~ 
growths is important, or the plants will 
become tall and crowded. 
Insect enemies of the bouvardia are 
brown scale, aphis, and mealy bug. Spray- 
ing with a strong solution of soft-soap 
and tobacco is the safest and most effective 
means of combating these pests. Working 
soot into the soil around the plants will 
deter the mealy bug and stimulate the 
growth. 
2 . 
There is always plenty of work to dv in 
the garden. That is what it is meant for. 
Ask Adam, he began it. If there is plenty 
of work one has always the satisfaction of 
knowing that there is plenty to show for 
it. Equally, on the other hand, the less 
one does the less there is to show for it, 
except in the matter of weeds. 
Clear liquid manure, given once or 
twice a week, is of great assistance to 
Camellias that are swelling their buds. 
Cleanliness is one of the first consi- 
derations in a well appointed garden. 
