6 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
July 1, 1907 
Roses 3 All the leading varieties, half-standards, 1s. each 
r 
>> oe BG Fs; "irees 3 Orange, Lemon, Peach, Apple, Pear, }?lum, ete 
HARDY SHRUBS, Trees, Climbers, etc. 
BULBS, Myacinth, Daffodil, Anemone, Tuberose, 
Gladiolus. 
S&S FE EC p BD) es a Vegetable and Flover. Agricultural, Horticultural Sundries in great var'ety. 
E. & W. HACKETT, 
Seedsmen, Nurserymen, &c., 
73 Rundle Street, Adelaide. 
most brilliant shades of scarlet, rose, pink, 
and white, and, including Lycoris, golden 
yellow, Many fine kinds are included in 
some of the catalogues, a large number of 
them being very beautiful and unknown 
to the majority of gardeners and amateurs. 
Sorr—Sirvation—Coirure. 
The most suitable soil is a warm sandy 
loam, but the plants will grow well in 
most soils if thoroughly drained, If the 
soil is poor the plants will benefit by the 
addition of some well-rotted inanure, 
worked into the soil some distance below 
the surface ; the addition of lime, rubbish, 
sand, or charcoal, is of benefit if the soil 
is of a heavy retentive nature. When 
preparing a site for the bulbs care should 
be taken to select a place where they may 
grow undisturbed for several years and 
where there will be no need to apply 
water during summer to other plants— 
during summer the plants are at rest and 
water in quantity is injurious to them. 
They flower freely when the bulbs are 
growing thickly together. The situation 
is of more importance than the soil as 
although the plants may exist in damp 
and shady positions for years they will 
not produce flowers. The inost exposed 
and warmest position in the garden is the 
most suitable. 
Planting should be done during summer 
when the plants are at rest; at that time 
they may be procured from seedsmen and 
nurserymen. The soil should be trodden 
and thoroughly settled before planting 
the bulbs, to obviate settling afterwards, 
for one of the conditions of successful 
culture is that they must not be buried 
deeply, The neck of the bulb should be 
placed at about the settled level of the 
surface; if planted in clumps place the 
bulbs about 3 inches apart to allow for 
increase, which is effected by off-sets from 
the original bulbs.’ Care must be. taken 
when cultivating that no implement ig 
allowed to damage the bulbs, which must 
be freed from weeds, ete, by hand 
picking. 
_ the trees. 
Telephone 850 
The Oxchard. 
Kerosene and Fruit Fly. 
The appearance of the Mediterranean 
fruit fly in South Australia has caused 
much alarm amongst the orchardists, who 
will be particularly interested to read 
that satisfictory trials have been made in 
Melbourne to demonstrate the value of 
kerosene as a cure for the pest, Mr C. 
French (Government Entomolo:ist) set a 
number of shallow tins contafning kero- 
sene among the branches of fruit trees in 
orchards around Melbourne where the 
fly was known to exist, an the results 
were carefully watched. Oil has attraction 
for flies as well as a fatal effect upon them, 
and they were drawn to the tins in large 
numbers. So satisfied is Mr French 
regarding the utility of this method of 
destruction that he has arranged t> have 
a large supply of suitable vessels made 
for distribution among the orchards at a 
cheap price in the coming spring season, 
when the fly commences to operate among 
The vessels, which will be of 
zine, will cost 34s. per gross. In his 
monthly report to the Minister Mr French 
says:—‘‘1 think the use of kerosene is 
going to be our partial salvation as far as 
the Mediterranean fruit fly is concerned, 
as some of my inspectors who have tested 
it for themselves are weli satisfied with 
the results.” 
| Notes for July. 
The pruning of all kinds of deciduous 
fruit trees should be completed during 
the month. Ali prunings should be 
gathered and burnt, and the tree should 
then receive a thorough spraying with the 
lime, sulphur, and salt wash, which is the 
best all-round winter spray, acting both 
as an insecticide and a fungicide. After 
pruning and spraying, the orchard should 
be well ploughed, so as to bury all weeds 
and trash that may have accumulated, to 
sweeten the soil, and to break up any pan 
that may have been formed by summer 
cultivation. 
Citrus trees. from which the fruit has 
been gathered, should be pruned now, 
the pruning to consist of cattiny out all 
dead branches or branches having borers 
in them, as well as all branches, thorns, 
or twigs, growing in the centre of the tree, 
which are not required. The centre of 
the tree must be kept well opened up, as, 
unless this is done, the superfluous wood 
only forms a harbor for all kinds of insect 
and fungus pests, and, in addition to this, 
where the tree is not well pruned out in 
the centre, it is impossible to do good 
work with the spray pnmp. 
As already stated, all the prunings from 
the tree should be gathered and burnt, as 
this is the surest way of destroying any 
scale insects, borers, or fungus pests with 
which they may be infected, If you have 
no spray pump, then the above mixture 
should be applied witha brush, It will 
destroy all scale insects with which it 
comes in contact, and will reniove all 
moss and lichen as well as stop the spread 
of canker or bark rot. 
The planting of deciduous trees can be 
continued throughout the month, but it 
is not advisable to delay it more than can 
be helped, as when the trees are planted, 
even though they make no leaf or head 
growth, they begin to throw out adven- 
titious rootlets which are ready to start 
work as soon as the first top growth takes 
place. Don’t plant too deep; the depth 
at which the young trees stood in the 
nursery is the right depth ; trim the roots 
carcfully, so as to remove all bruised 
portions ; spread the roots: out well. so 
that they may get a good hold of the 
ground, and always spread a little fine 
top soil round them, as this will be con- 
ducive to the rapid formation of new 
roots, 
