6 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
October 1, 1907 
p =< eo J —) 3 All the leading varieties, half-standards, 1s. each 
C=) a 
FE BE (OSS F orange, Lemon, Porch, Apple, Pose, Plum, ote 
HARDY SHRUBS, Trees, Climbers, etc. 
BULBS, Hyacinth, Daffodil, Anemone, Tuberose, 
Gladiolus. 
<p = > => p BD) Gay 3 Vegetable and Flower. Agricultural, Horticultural Sundries in great variety. 
E. & W. HACKETT, 
Seedsmen, Nurserymen, &c., 
73 Rundle Street, Adelaide. 
to insure success. The addition of clay, 
or heayy loam to light sandy soil, or sand, 
ashes, or well decayed manure to heavy 
soils, will bring them to a condition suit- 
able for the culture of these plants. They 
may be grown in heds specially prepared 
for them, or as patchee or individual 
plants in beds or borders. The most 
important point in their cultivation is 
that no manure should come into contact 
with the tubers or even near them, or 
their destruction is irievitable. In very 
poor soils some old and well rotted cow 
manure may be thoroughly mixed with 
soil at a depth of below 6 inches from the 
surface, but no fresh manure should be 
used. ‘The tubers may be planted from 
February to May; where blooms are 
desired carly an open and sunny position 
should be selected. Tubers should be 
planted at a depth of 2 inches in heavy 
soils to 8 inches in light, care being taken 
that the crowns are placed uppermost 
When the plants are grown in special 
beds the tubers should be set out in rows 
from 12 to 2 feet apart, allowing from 
9 to 12 inches in the rows for each plant. 
The same amount of room is advisable 
between each plant when anemones are 
grown to produce patches of bloom in 
beds or borders. Except in very dry 
places, or when planting is deferred till 
Inte in autumn, the spring blooming 
anemones will not require any artificial 
watering during a normal season, and the 
only cultivation required is the hoe 
between the rows or patches, and keep 
the plants free from weeds. When the 
plants have finished blooming, and the 
stems and leaves are withered, they should 
be lifted, and after being dried, stored 
away until the planting season arrives. 
Plants allowed to remain in the ground 
will flower early in winter, but fine 
weather is essential for the production of 
blooms of good type and quality. 
Anemones of spring blooming types 
are increased by dividing the tubers, and 
from seeds. After the plants are lifted 
and dried, they should be divided, before 
storing, into pieces, each containing one 
or more eyes or buds, Seeds should be 
saved from the finest type and flowers, 
which may be cross fertilized with ease. 
The anemone produces seeds freely, the 
seeds being clothed with a woolly covering 
and clinging together. They should be 
separated before sowing, the easiest way 
being to mix with them a quantity of 
dry sand or other gritty material and rub 
them until they separate. They may be 
sown as soon as ripe, in small beds or 
boxes of fine soil. The young plants soon 
appear, and should be kept free from 
weeds and watered during dry weather, 
which will enable them to develop into 
fair plants, many of which will flower 
during the same year. After dying down 
they should be stored and replanted in 
season ; when the tubers are very small, 
sifting from the soil is the common prac- 
tice. If a good selection of seed is made 
some fine varieties may be produced. 
The Japanese anemones will thrive 
and produce their blooms freely under 
ordinary border conditions. The plants 
are increased by divisions of the crowns, 
which may be done iu autumn or early 
spring. Varieties obtainable are :—A. 
Japonica, rose; a double form of the 
same kind; A. Japonica, alba, white ; 
and Honorine Joubert, and Whirlwind, 
white, larger and finer than the type. 
Operations for October. 
The most important ground operation 
at the present time is breaking the rough 
surface left after digging. Where the 
soil is heavy and retentive it will be found 
that a coarse lumpy surface is best at- 
tacked while comparatively moist, and 
after being pulverised a fairly smooth 
surface can be readily maintained in a 
loose condition and the moisture in the 
soil conserved. 
A perennial gardening task is the de- 
struction or prevention of insects and 
Telephone 350 
fungi, the work being greatly minimised 
by attacking the parasites early in the 
season. Flowers of sulphur dusted on 
plants of roses known to be liable to 
mildew; or sulphide of potassium used 
as a spray wash, at the rate of 1 oz. to 
3 gallons of water, against rose mildew 
and rust on carnations are well known 
preventives of such fungi. Tobacco or 
soap washes are effective against aphides, 
the most general of the insect enemies of 
garden plants in the spring. A most 
thorough application is necessary, the aim 
being absolute extinction if possible. 
Beds for the reception of chrysanthe- 
mums grown for exhibition should be 
ready now, If properly prepared during 
winter a digging will be sufficient, the 
main object being aerating the soil and 
thoroughly mixing the manure through 
it. Where a choico of plants is possible, 
moderately strong and sturdy plants 
should be selected, avoiding extra large 
and sappy, or weak and spindly specimens. 
Of the new varieties grown last season a 
few of the most promising are :—Richard 
Seddon, terra-cotta red; Miss Alexander, 
rosy cerise, reverse silver; Mrs, Jas, 
Whitton, white ; Mrs. Bischofisheim, deep 
yellow, overlaid with pink and red; Mrs, 
C. Beckett, white; Valerie Greenham, 
pink ; W. A. Etherington, silvery mauve ; 
Lady Conyers, rose pink, silvery reverse. 
Plants of chrysanthemums intended to 
produce large numbers of flowers may be 
planted at once. Three suckers planted 
about 1 foot apart in a triangle, will pro- 
duce fine large plants before their season 
of blooming. Carnations should be staked, 
the growths tied regularly, and an exces- 
sive amount of shoots reduced to a few 
if fine flowers are desired. The buds on 
the selected shoots also be thinned, the — 
large terminal bud being selected to re- 
main in most varieties. In many varieties 
that preduce large flowers that invariably 
lose form by bursting the calices, a secon- 
dary bud should be saved, the flower 
resulting being smaller but of much 
superior form, 
