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deep vessels, but spread it out on a board or on the grass, as otherwise numbers 
of the bees will get stuck in the honey or other food and be suffocated, If the 
bees are seen fighting at the entrance to their hives, it may be suspected that 
others are trying to rob; and if it is a weak colony that is attacked, it is best 
to contract the entrance. Bees may be fed inside the hive, and this is the right 
way to give a colony sufficient stores for the winter, and there are several ways 
of giving it to them. A couple of frames of honey may be taken from some 
colony that has plenty, or a shallow frame may be made the same size as the 
body of the hive and about 2 inches deep, with a bar across the centre to 
support the mat; then a plate of honey or sugar may be placed on the frames, 
and the bees will soon carry it down. 
MOVING BEES. 
A hive of bees cannot be moved about anywhere, especially where there 
. is more than one; but if required to be moved it must be shifted only a few 
feet at a time, as when a hive is first placed in position the bees take their 
points from surrounding objects, and if the hive is moved they will not be able 
to find it, and may try to get into the next one, when they will be killed by the 
other bees. If itis necessary to move a hive, it must first be carried out of 
the radius of the flight of the bees, which is usually two to three miles, and 
after about a fortnight brought back to the place where it is required, A new 
swarm may be placed anywhere. . 
ARTIFICIAL SWARMING. 
To prevent the chance of the bees getting away when swarming naturally, 
artificial swarming is sometimes resorted to, and is accomplished in severa 
ways, of which the one given below is good: (Go to a hive and get a comb 
with a queen-cell on it, putting an empty comb or frame of foundation in its 
place; then remove the hive that you wish to swarm artificially to a neW 
position, including the super, and put a new hive with empty combs or frames 
of foundation in its place, putting the frame with the queen-cell among them; 
then the returning bees will soon make a good swarm. It is as well, instead of 
_ all empty combs, to give some frames of eggs and brood from the old hive, and 
then the bees will have something to do while waiting for the cell to hatch an 
the young queen to lay. Another way is to give thenew colony a frame wit 
the queen on instead of a queen-cell, and this is perhaps a better method than 
the first. 
WINTER CARE OF THE BEES. 
Most people commencing bee-keeping will get along all right during the 
summer months, but it is in the cold weather that the bees require most care; 
as it is the hives that come out strongest in the spring that gather the first — 
surplus honey, so winter should be entered on with the bees as strong 8 
possible, and any that do not cover more than four frames should be joined to 
some other colony keeping the better queen of the two. Care should be taken 
to see that they have sufficient stores and are not likely to be starved out, but 
in most places in this colony the bees will be able to gather a little honey for 
themselves during some warm days in winter. Division boards are useful to 
economise the warmth of hive by contracting the space, and are made 0 
l-inch stuff and a little larger than a frame, and hang from the rebate of the 
hive. One is placed on each side of the cluster; an extra mat should also be 
put on, and, of course, the super taken off. The bees should be looked at 
occasionally, and a warm day chosen for the purpose. 
EMPTY COMBS. 
Before the cold weather comes the supers will be taken off, and the combs — 
stored away where rats or mice cannot get at them; the hives themselves dO 
very well to keep them in, and may be placed one on the other and the top one — 
covered. The combs should be looked at from time to time to see that there 
