314 QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. [1 Ocr., 1897. 
that they will pass easily through the 2-inch holes at the ends of the planting- 
board, and of about 18 inches in length. Place the planting-board on the 
ground, so that the stake fits into the V, and then drive the pegs through the 
holes at the ends, leaving them 3 or 4 inches above the board. Then lift the 
board over the pegs, remove the stake, and dig the hole. When ready to plant, 
replace the board and place the tree so that the stem will fit into the V, and 
the tree will thus stand in exactly the same spot as that occupied by the stake. 
The planting-board is also of value in showing the depth at which to plant, 
the top of the board being 1 inch above the level of the surrounding ground, 
so that the depth at which the tree is planted can be seen at a glance, and the 
hole can be deepened or filled up as required to suit the tree that is being 
planted. 
Currina-BAcK AT PLANTING. 
Cutting-back at planting is the first and most important step that is taken 
in the formation of the future tree, and the grower who neglects to cut back 
at planting prevents, in a great measure, the vigorous development that takes 
place when the tree is properly started, and also, no matter what the subsequent - 
pruning may be, the tree will never beas symmetrical or as evenly balanced, if 
unpruned when planted, asit would be if properly cut back. The removal of 
the tree from the nursery has destroyed the greater portion of the fibrous roots 
of the tree, so, in order that the top may correspond with the reduced root 
system, it must be cut back. When a tree is planted out as received from the 
nursery, without being cut back, there are a large number of buds on it, most 
of which will start, and the energies of the tree will be divided between them, 
with the result that, instead of a few strong branches being formed, a number 
of weakly and useless twigs will be produced. On the other hand, when the 
tree is properly cut back, and only three, four, or five buds, that are required 
to form the main branches of the tree, are allowed to develop, then the whole 
energy of the tree is thrown into those buds, and the result is the formation 
of three, four, or five vigorous shoots, that are evenly 
balanced, and that are just where they are required to 
form the future main branches on which the tree is to 
be grown, no matter what system of pruning is afterwards 
adopted. The height at which to cut back is a matter 
of considerable importance, but in nearly every instance, 
in Queensland, it is best to head low. The extreme height 
should in no case exceed 2 feet, and in most instances 
1 foot is to be preferred. Low heading protects the 
trunk from sunburn, as the spread of the branches shades 
the ground around it; renders the tree less liable to damage 
from wind; the fruit is easier gathered, and, if properly 
pruned, improved implements of cultivation can work the 
... Whole of the land right up to the stem if necessary to do 
~ so. The following illustration (Fig. 4) shows the method of 
' _ cutting-back at planting, and it is best to make the cut lean 
from, and not towards the midday sun. In windy districts 
it is also a good plan to leave the top bud pointing in 
the direction of the prevailing wind, as this will tend to 
balance the tree. Always see that the tree has only one 
main stem, no matter whether it is only 6 inches long, as 
the common plan of growing trees, especially citrus, as a 
bush with half-a-dozen or more branches starting from the 
Be Se ground cannot be too strongly condemned, as such trees 
eo a can never be kept free from insect or fungus pests, as they 
_ Fie. 4. usually grow in such a dense mass that it is impossible 
to get any spraying material into the centres of the trees. 
