PHILADELPHUS (Mockorange) 
Atlas (Giant Mockorange) Each $2.50, Three $7.00 
It is the flowers that are giants, not the plants, although 
they will attain a considerable size if not pruned. The 
huge blossoms (3 inches across) are as large as Dogwood 
blooms and they make excellent cut flowers—so you will 
prune. Philadelphus is hardy, requiring no special culture. 
Enchantment (Double) Each $3.00, Three $8.50 
Its branches are erect and on maturity the bush rarely 
grows over 6 feet. The flowers, set very closely, are 
double and sweetly fragrant. It will grow well in light 
shade. 
Innocence Each $2.50, Three $7.00 
An alabaster-white mockorange producing heavily. 
Flowers are delicately fragrant. Height at maturity is 
about 6 feet. 
KOLKWITZIA AMABILIS 
(Beauty Bush) 
A favorite of pink bell-shaped flowers in June. It tolerates 
poor or dry sandy soil and is of easiest culture. The foli- 
age is heavy and covers the plant to the ground. Height, 
8 feet. 
Each $2.25, Three $6.25, Six $12.00 
LONICERA 
(Honeysuckle Bush) 
Tatarica Alba Each $1.50, Three $4.00, Doz. $15.00 
An upright but spreading shrub bearing white flowers in 
late May and June. Fragrant. An excellent shrub for 
screening as it reaches 10 feet. 
Each $1.50, Three $4.00, Doz. $15.00 
Similar to above with pale pink flowers. 
Tatarica Rubra 
ROSA MULTIFLORA 
(The Living Fence) 
This fencing material is primarily for farmers or for estate 
owners who have need for permanent fences. Plant it 
1 foot apart and in three years cattle or sheep cannot 
get through it. Plant on 6-inch centers and not a hog can 
pass. It grows 8 feet high, spreads 8 feet. Roots, how- 
ever, do not spread. For its purpose, permanent fencing, 
it is perfect. We no longer offer bare-root, seedling stock 
—too many people have difficulty with it. We sell only 
heavily-rooted, potted cuttings from selected stock. 
25, $5.00; 100, $16.50; 500, $75.00; 1000, $125.00 
foe 14 
ees 
g) i 
: ry ¢ 
PEAT MOSS AND SALT HAY 
Unless you live within 50 miles of The Farm you'll do 
better price-wise buying this bulky material locally. Both, 
however, are invaluable to good garden practice and if 
you can’t get imported peat or salt hay in your neighbor- 
hood maybe you had better go to the expense of having 
us ship it by express. 
Imported Peat, standard bale............+:- Each $4.50 
Salt Hay, 70 to 
SOMlbr balesitccrisleisierete Each $2.75, Three $7.75, Ton $75.00 
(Available in October.) 
SPECIAL GRASS SEED 
This mixture is composed mostly of the Fescue race— 
tough, hardy, creeping, shade-resisting grasses. They 
withstand drought better than most grasses, are not 
attacked, like some, by fungus diseases. The rest (15 per- 
cent) is made up of three kinds of upright Bent. There is 
no Kentucky Bluegrass in it. Ditto Redtop. If you are seed- 
ing a new lawn let us know and we will send you without 
charge enough annual rye grass to form a cover crop 
for these slower germinating grasses. Use this mixture 
sparingly but consistently. It is expensive stuff and unless 
you are after a fine turf you'll do better with hardware 
store mixtures. 
5 Ibs. $13.75, 10 Ibs. $22.50, 25 Ibs. $49.50 
YOUR LAWN 
Don’t think that all there is to a nice lawn is fine-grading 
the site, planting the grass, watering it and mowing it. 
Maintaining a good lawn requires care and money— 
lots of both—and if you haven’t the time and don’t want 
to spend the money, the best advice you can take is to 
just cut the natural grass (and weeds) you can’t keep 
from coming up, anyway. 
On the other hand, if you are after a deep velvety 
turf follow these directions: 
Kolkwitzia Spray 
New Lawns 
Be sure you have six inches of topsoil; topsoil rich in humus 
(old manure dug in). Don’t fool around testing it for acidity— 
put on 25 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet. (Too much 
lime will give you too much clover.) Rake in the lime, and 
water the area. Don’t be in a hurry about seeding—you want» 
the freshly dug soil to settle. Then put on 50 pounds of 0-10-10 
commercial fertilizer. (This means you have no nitrogen, except 
that already in the soil, but you do nave plenty of phosphorus 
and potash for root and body strength.) Rake it finely and 
water the area some more. 
After you can’t stand the look of the barren ground any 
longer rake it lightly. Then seed. Put the seed on so thickly 
that the formerly barren ground looks as if it had been heavily 
salt-and-peppered—like a lamb chop Then, and this is im- 
portant, drag it. Drag it lightly about three times, round and 
round and up and down. This will cover 80 percent of the 
seed to the proper depth—the rest will be too deep or on the 
surface but you can’t do anything about it. Then roll it. (Don’t 
worry about foot marks or indentations; they can be filled in 
later.) And keep it damp. Cut it when grass is about 3 inches 
high and set your mower as high as it will go. (The seed to 
use? If you don‘t buy ours, buy what is sold as “Shady Lawn’ 
seed. These mixtures contain better grasses than run-of-mill or 
so-called sunny-location grass mixtures.) 
At this point all you have is a very young lawn. It should 
be cut three times a week and your mower should never be 
set lower than 194-2 inches—the latter is better. Do not pick 
up the cut grass. You’ll get some crab grass the first July but 
don’t worry about it. After the fall rains start, sprinkle the 
grass with about 5 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet. Then 
take a bamboo lawn broom and rake the whole area hard. 
Roll, and if the rains fail, keep wet. This will give you thou- 
sands of vigorous, small seedling grasses. 
Early the next spring use 25 pounds of Milorganite to 
1000 square feet. (Use a “potato” fertilizer if you can‘t get 
Milorganite or some other organic material.) By early we mean 
just after frost or before the grass gets green. Then use one 
pound of seed per 1000 square feet, broom and roll as above. 
The next September follow the same procedure and ditto every 
spring and August thereafter. 
Quite a job, isn’t it? But your reward is a deep, velvety 
lawn and we thought that was what you were after. 
About Old Lawns 
An old lawn can be refurbished without digging it up. The 
trick here is to seed, broom and roll spring and September year 
after year. (Fertilize each spring and seed spring and fall.) If 
broad-leaved plants like dandelion and plantain are present 
dig them out or kill with 2-4D. 
Notes on Crabgrass 
Crabgrass is no problem on a well-kept lawn. Heavy, benign 
grasses give Crab no room to get started—an annual, it does 
not germinate until late June or July. It is shallow-rooted and 
simply cannot get started in a thick lawn. In our opinion 
Crabgrass killers (some do actually kill it) are a waste of time 
and money—they cannot substitute for properly kept grass and 
cost more than a good lawn in the long run. 
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