trees. Small trees, 2-3 ft., may be planted in post-holes 12”’ wide, but 
trees 5-6 ft. require holes about 20” wide. Larger trees need slightly 
wider holes, the general rule being for the hole to be sufficiently wide 
to allow lateral or side roots to be spread out naturally. A good 
plan is to dig holes with an ordinary post-hole digger, using a 
sharpened heavy piece of steel axle or sharpened pipe or “crowbar” 
to soften the hole when clay is reached in the digging. Then the ‘‘post- 
hole’? may be widened easily with ordinary shovel to the size desired. 
In digging, it is suggested that the topsoil be laid on a separate pile 
from clay, as it is preferable to use topsoil only in replanting. Mix 
topsoil thoroughly with 3 to 5 lbs. of good mild organic fertilizer (sheep 
manure, bone meal, or pulverized dried cow manure) per tree. (Very 
old, dried, and well pulverized COW COMPOST, well-rotted and free 
of trash, is excellent.) 
IMMEDIATELY UPON ARRIVAL OF TREES, thoroughly redampen 
the roots by punching hole in bale of trees just above the roots and 
pouring several buckets of water into the package, allowing it to run 
downward. Avoid exposure of roots to direct sunlight or extreme 
(freezing) cold or to heat, and plant as soon as possible. 
PLANTING MAY BE DONE BEST by taking out one tree at a time. 
In planting an orchard of some size we usually employ several 50-gal. 
barrels filled with water, and placed on truck or wagon, some trees 
being placed in ONE barrel. This affords double advantage of mini- 
mum exposure of trees to drying winds and air, and plenty of water 
for planting process. Set tree in the hole so that the original ground 
level (where brownish ‘‘root bark” ends and grayish “trunk bark” 
begins) is about 4” to 6” below the level of the edge of hole. Sift in 
the mixed topsoil, free of trash, and add water; then more soil, more 
water, tamping gently with shovel handle to work up thick mud with- 
out damaging the roots. Continue this, until original root level is 
reached with mud, and finally sprinkle a little unwatered soil on top, 
leaving tree in a shallow cup or basin. We do not recommend use of 
regular commercial mineral or ‘‘mixed’’ fertilizers when trees are 
planted. Mild organic fertilizers are more expensive, but do not burn 
the roots. 
WRAP THE TRUNK OF EACH TREE after planting, using heavy 
paper. The paper which comes around the bale of trees shipped from 
us is especially useful for this purpose. Cut paper into long strips 
about 3’”’ wide, using heavy scissors or very sharp knife. Then, remove 
a little soil (about 1’’) from about base of tree, and bind this paper 
around the tree trunk, bringing it upwards spirally around tree to with- 
in a few inches of top of tree, and then tear off. Then bind wrapping 
in place near the upper end with cotton cord or binder twine, and 
wind it DOWN the tree in spiral direction, CROSSING paper spiral, 
until just above ground level; then tie cord to itself, keeping paper 
firmly attached to tree. 
KEEP TREE TRUNK WRAPPED TWO YEARS, or until tree makes 
strong terminal shoot growth. This is protection against the destruc- 
tive “flat-head borer’’; it prevents growth of side-shoots, thus head- 
ing the tree out higher; it insulates tree against extremes of heat and 
cold, and protects against rahhit bites. After wrapping is removed, 
spray tree trunk with heavy Volek (oi! emulsion), or fish oil soap, or 
simply scrub with heavy laundry or “Octagon” soap, to remove any 
scale insects which might he present. 
FERTILIZE WITH COMMERCIAL FERTILIZER during the late 
winter after first growing season. Good method is to punch several 
holes about 10 or 12” deep with steel crowbar or pipe about 8” from 
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