Carlesi Each $5.00, Three $14.00 
Flower domés aré, of course, as fragrant as Burkwoodi 
although slightly smaller. It, too, is very hardy and easily 
grown. Carlesi reaches 10 feet upon maturity and when 
planted close on a line makes a sensational screen or 
big hedge. 
ROSA MULTIFLORA 
(The Living Fence) 
This fencing material is primarily for farmers or for estate 
owners who have need for permanent fences. Plant it 
1 foot apart and in three years cattle or sheep cannot 
get through it. Plant on 6-inch centers and not a hog can 
pass. It grows 8 feet high, spreads 8 feet. Roots, how- 
ever, do not spread. For its purpose, permanent fencing, 
it is perfect. We no longer offer bare-root, seedling stock 
—too many people have difficulty with it. We sell only 
heavily-rooted, potted cuttings from selected stock. 
25, $5.00; 100, $16.50; 500, $75.00; 1000, $125.00 
SPIREA 
A fine group of shrubs that are sun-loving but able to 
withstand almost any abuse in location and soil condition. 
Japonica Coccinea Each $2.00, Three $5.75, Doz. $20.00 
This replaces the older variety Anthony Waterer. Its 
flowers are crimson-red. It blooms in July, normally a bare 
month for blooms in shrubbery. The color does not fade 
in the sun and if old flowers are cut off it will continue 
to bloom all summer. Coccinea reaches 3 feet in height. 
Vanhouttei (Bridal Wreath) 
Each $2.00, Three $5.75, Doz. $20.00 
An arching shrub growing about 5 to 6 feet. The slender 
branches are covered with panicles of white flowers in 
late May and early June. It is not new but it is a favorite. 
YOUR LAWN 
Don’t think that all there is to a nice lawn is fine-grading 
the site, planting the grass, watering it and mowing it. 
Maintaining a good lawn requires care and money— 
lots of both—and if you haven’t the time and don’t want 
to spend the money, the best advice you can take is to 
just cut the natural grass (and weeds) you can’t keep 
from coming up, anyway. 
On the other hand, if you are after a deep velvety 
turf follow these directions. 
New Lawns 
Be sure you have six inches of topsoil; topsoil rich In humus 
(old manure dug in). Don’t fool around testing it for acidity— 
put on 25 pounds of lime per 1000 square feet. (Too much 
20 
lime will give you too much clover.) Rake in the lime, and 
water the area. Don’t be in a hurry about seeding—you want 
the freshly dug soil to settle. Then put on 50 pounds of 0-10-10 
commercial fertilizer. (This means you have no nitrogen, except 
that already in the soil, but you do have plenty of phosphorus 
and potash for root and body strength.) Rake it finely and 
water the area some more. 
After you can’t stand the look of the barren ground any 
longer rake it lightly. Then seed. Put the seed on so thickly 
that the formerly barren ground looks as if it had been heavily 
salt-and-peppered—like a lamb chop. Then, and this is im- 
portant, drag it. Drag it lightly about three times, round and 
round and up and down. This will cover 80 percent of the 
seed to the proper depth—the rest will be too deep or on the 
surface but you can’t do anything about it. Then roll it. (Don’t 
worry about foot marks or indentations; they can be filled in 
later.) And keep it damp. Cut it when grass is about 3 inches 
high and set your mower as high as it will go. (The seed to 
use? If you don’t buy ours, buy what is sold as “Shady Lawn” 
seed. These mixtures contain better grasses than run-of-mill or 
so-called sunny-location grass mixtures.) 
At this point all you have Is a very young lawn. It should 
be cut three times a week and your mower should never be 
set lower than 154-2 inches—the latter is better. Do not pick 
up the cut grass. You’ll get some crab grass the first July but 
don‘t worry about it. After the fall rains start, sprinkle the 
grass with about 5 pounds of seed per 1000 square feet. Then 
take a bamboo lawn broom and rake the whole area hard. 
Roll, and if the rains fail, keep wet. This will give you thou- 
sands of vigorous, small seedling grasses. 
Early the next spring use 25 pounds of Milorganite to 
1000 square feet. (Use a “potato” fertilizer if you can’t get 
Milorganite or some other organic material.) By early we mean 
just after frost or before the grass gets green. Then use three 
pounds of seed per 1000 square feet, broom and roll as above. 
The next August follow the same procedure and ditto every 
spring and August thereafter. 
Quite a job, isn’t it? But your reward is a deep, velvety 
lawn and we thought that was what you were after. 
About Old Lawns 
An old lawn can be refurbished without digging it up. The 
trick here is to seed, broom and roll spring and August year 
after year. (Fertilize each spring and seed spring and fall.) If 
broad-leaved plants like dandelion and plantain are present 
dig them out or kill with 2-4D. 
Notes on Crabgrass 
Crabgrass Is no problem on a well-kept lawn. Heavy, benign 
grasses give Crab no room to get started—an annual, it does 
not germinate until late June or July. It is shallow-rooted and 
simply cannot get started in a thick lawn. In our opinion 
Crabgrass killers (some do actually kill it) are a waste of time 
and money—they cannot substitute for properly kept grass and 
cost more than a good lawn in the long run. 
SPECIAL GRASS SEED 
This mixture is composed mostly of the Fescue race— 
tough, hardy, creeping, shade-resisting grasses. They 
withstand drought better than most grasses, are not 
attacked, like some, by fungus diseases. The mixture is 
available only in the spring and as we stock small quan- 
tities it would be best for you to place your order now 
for spring delivery. As we sell out by June Ist it would 
be a good idea to order enough for your annual late 
August seeding. Use this mixture sparingly but consist- 
ently. It is expensive stuff and unless you are after a 
fine turf you’ll do better with hardware store mixtures. 
5 Ibs. $13.75, 10 Ibs. $22.50, 25 Ibs. $49.50 
About Green Thumbs 
There has been a lot of talk over the ages about 
people with green thumbs. According to the talk, 
a person with a green thumb can put a stick in the 
ground and it grows. Fact is this green thumb taik 
is an old wives’ tale. 
There is no trick to growing plants. Any garden 
book brims with advice and so do the Sunday 
supplements. The danger is that a beginner may 
get too much advice. So seek little of it; remember 
that garden soils needn't be perfect (they can be 
built up), remember about sunlight (most plants 
require it), about watering (when it’s dry) — and 
care (spray and weed). Don’t cultivate too much 
because it’s bad on the plants and your back. 
Two partners here never had grown a flower 
before 1939 but shortly flowers were coming out 
of their ears. They looked at their thumbs often; 
never found them green. Quite dirty at times, 
though. 
