Giant Ever Blooming Carnations 
Field-Grown . . . Hardy Rugged Plants 
Cultural Instructions 
Easy to Grow If These Simple Rules Are Followed 
PREPARATION OF SOIL. The Carnation will tole- 
rate wide range of soil condition and acidity, but it 
must have good drainage. The PH if the soil is best 
between 6.0 and 7.0. The plant requires plenty of or- 
ganic matter, so liberal amounts of well rotted manure 
are spaded into the soil. In addition to this, about 5 
lbs. of either bonemeal or superphosphate is required 
per 100 square feet of ground. If an extreme acid con- 
dition is encountered, a light sprinkling of agricultural 
lime or wood ashes would be beneficial. 
TREATMENT OF PURCHASED PLANTS. The rooted 
cuttings when received must be planted in moderately 
moist soil (not soggy) immediately. Caution must be 
exercised not to plant them deeper than they were in - 
sand during rooting process. Deep planting will invite 
tissue damaging fungi to enter at the tender section 
causing stem rot. The roots must not come in direct 
contact with fresh fertilizer which may burn them. To 
insure proper aeration and caring of the plants such 
as staking, etc., necessary as they grow, the workable 
spacing is about 15 inches apart. Soil around each plant 
must be pressed firm and watered immediately. Shad- 
ing of plants with newspaper is beneficial if the weather 
is hot but this must be removed during the night and 
in cooler days. As soon as the plants are hardened and 
established, no further shading should be necessary. 
Carnations like full sunlight. 
STOPPING. Plants are first topped when they are 
three or four inches high. The object of this topping is 
to encourage young plants to become bushy around the 
base. The best method is to pull out the center with the 
right hand while gripping the plant firmly with the 
left. More stems will arise by this procedure than when 
the top is merely broken off. Centers of new growths’ 
are further topped occasionally until a bushy plant is 
assured. 
STAKING. Almost simultaneously with the last top- 
ping, the plants should be provided with some sort of 
support. Individual wire loop supports are most com- 
monly used. 
DISBUDDING. When buds become sufficiently large, 
all side buds are removed, thus leaving a single bud to 
a stem. 
WATERING. Very wet or very dry soil conditions are 
both detrimental to support a vigorous, healthy growth 
of Carnations. Although in Winter they will stand being 
kept fairly dry much better than on the wet sidesa. 
FEEDING. Since the Carnation is an ever-blooming 
flower, feeding is a year around procedure after its final 
topping. Nitrogen stimulates stem and leaf growth; phos- 
phoric acid and potash build up sturdy, firm growth 
of plants with large flowers, good substance, and good 
color. For this reason, application of complete fertilizers 
is recommended at the rate of between 2 and 4 pounds 
per 100 square feet at every two months intervals. 
DISEASE CONTROL. 
1. Rust. Easily controlled with Fermate, Bordeaux mix- 
ture, or Botano dust. 
2. Septoria leafspot causes purple blotches on the leaves. 
Same control as for rust. 
3. Yellows and Mosaics are virus diseases. Since aphids 
spread viruses, they should be controlled. 
INSECT CONTROL. 
1. Aphids and Red Spider. Controlled with sprays such 
as ‘‘Vapotone,”’ etc. 
2. Thrips. Causes white spots on flowers and may cause 
tips of shoots to stick together. Controlled with DDT 
dust or sprays. 
Propagation of New Plants 
In order to grow Carnations successfully, a person 
must start propagating new plants from cuttings at 
some time or another. Best cuttings are produced about 
midway on a flowering stem, as indicated (A and B) in 
the illustration. The length of the cutting should be 
about three to four inches long. The growth (C) is al- 
lowed to grow into a flowering stem. 
The procedure of taking slips or cuttings is rather 
unique in Carnations. The ones shown in the illustra- 
tion are called “heel” cuttings because the shoots are 
severed by the “heel” or node of a main stem. The cut- 
ting, and leaf surrounding it, are held firmly and Sev- 
ered by outward-downward pull (see first part in the 
illustration). 
TRIMMING OF FOLIAGE. According to pathologists, 
the plant food is manufactured in the leaves and trim- 
ming reduces the area in which food is manufactured. 
Also, essential plant elements must be used to heal any 
wound. Furthermore, all wounds will become a source 
of infection; therefore, only leaves of the cuttings com- 
ing in contact with the rooting media are removed. 
ROOTING AIDS. Use Rootone or Hormodin No. 1 
according to directions. Do not allow cuttings to become 
wilted. Submerging in water is one way of refreshing 
wilted cuttings. 
ROOTING MEDIA. Use either clean medium coarse 
sand or “Mermiculite.” The latter is better. 
CARE OF CUTTING. Take an ordinary plant flat, 
fill it with “Vermiculite,” and level it off. Then soak it 
with water thoroughly and pound the surface firmly 
with a 2x3 piece of board. Make a straight groove about 
one inch deep with a small mason’s trowel or flat blade 
of some sort. Then place the cuttings about one-half 
inch apart. When the row is completed, tap the base 
of the cuttings firmly again with the board. Then 
another groove is made about three inches away. Thus, 
an ordinary flat holds about 200 cuttings. They are 
thoroughly watered overhead when finished and then 
shaded for a while from direct sunlight, but not too 
heavily. Remember always that light is necessary for 
normal function of a plant. Heavy draft is also detri- 
mental. It dries off the foliage too much. 
_It normally takes about four weeks to root a Carna- 
tion cutting when the temperature is right. When roots 
are about one-half to one inch long, the plants need 
transplanting. 
More complete growing instructions will accompany 
each shipment of Carnation plants. 
— 40 
