14 QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. [1 Jan., 1899. 
SOWING THE SEEDS. 
Some kinds of vegetable seeds are sown in seed-beds, and when large 
enough transplanted to the open ground; others are sown directly in their 
permanent places. For a seed-bed, I know of nothing better than the plan 
recommended by Mr. Nevill for raising young tobacco plants. A full descrip- 
tion and illustration of this form of seed-bed appeared in Vol. II., Part 3 
(March, 1898), of this Journal, and I can confidently advise its adoption for 
raising young plants of any kind. 
Cabbages, cauliflowers, lettuce, tomatoes, and numerous other kinds are 
always raised in seed-beds; and it will be found better to sow these all in 
narrow shallow drills in the bed than to sow broadeast. Young plants grown 
in drills are much easier to lift and transplant than if broadcasted, and as a 
rule are stronger and sturdier. In preparing the bed, the soil should be raked 
as finely as possible, and the seeds must not be sown too deeply. A quarter to 
a half inch of soil above the seed is usually enough. If the drills are covered 
in with a little very fine and thoroughly rotten manure, germination takes place 
quickly, and in transplanting a ball of the manure will stick to the rootlets, 
thus increasing the dienass of success in planting. 
In preparing soil for seed-sowing in the open ground, always have the 
soil thoroughly tilled, cleaned from weeds, and well pulverised. An Acme 
harrow immediately following the plough will reduce most soil to a very fine 
tilth ; and if not, the rake must be used to finish off, especially with such seeds 
as carrots, onions, &c. 
Where enough ground is available, I should recommend sowing all such 
crops as these in drills from 2 to 3 feet apart, so that horse cultivators can be 
used among them. 
However, this subject will be more closely gone into when dealing with 
crops in detail. 
TRANSPLANTING. 
For transplanting, the ground should be prepared, more especially tor 
delicate plants, in precisely the same way as for seed-sowing. The finer the 
surface soil is, the more easily will the young tender rootlets be able to force 
their way down in search of food and sustenance; and as a consequence leaf 
growth will necessarily follow. 
Jf the soil is hard and lumpy, the attempt of the rootlets to strike into it 
becomes to some extent useless, and it naturally follows that the top growth 
also becomes retarded, and it will only be by good luck if the plants come to 
anything. When taking the plants from the seed-bed, be careful not to break 
the roots too much, and endeavour to lift them with a little of the soil adhering. 
Never pull young plants up, but lift them carefully. It is a good plan to give . 
the bed a thorough soaking with water some time before beginning to lift the 
plants. 
Always, if possible, choose a dull or showery day for transplanting; but 
should the weather be warm and dry, do the work in the afternoons, and water 
well after planting; and if suitable material is procurable, mulch the ground 
for a few inches round each plant. Set the plants a little deeper in the ground 
than they were in the bed, and firm the soil well around the roots without 
bruising the necks of the plants. 
Take care always to make the hole for planting just deep enough, so that 
the plant will not hang in it, and give the plants plenty of room to grow, by 
setting them a little wider in the rows than the size of the plants when fully 
grown. 
For example, if a cabbage will cover 24 feet on the outside leaves, set the 
young plants of that variety out 3 feet apart each way. 
Should the weather be dry for some time after planting, it will be necessary 
to water the young plants several times a week until they become established ; 
the watering being done either early in the morning or late in the afternoon. 
