160 QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. [1 Mar., 1899. 
upwards in a circular fashion like the spikes (?) of a crown. From that 
crown or paw radiate in every direction thick finger-shaped roots, called in 
fact fingers, which form a kind of inverted funnel. From those fingers 
innumerable hair-like roots plunge diagonally quite deep into the soil. Well, 
those fingers rot away every year, leaving only a kind of dry empty skin, pretty 
much like an ordinary sausage-skin, and are replaced by other fingers, which 
grow invariably over the dead ones, although starting from the crown too. 
The result of that strange phenomenon is that the plant rises every year in its 
place, and would be soon out of the soil altogether were not measures taken to 
meet that peculiarity. Ifthe plant were left to itself, it would throw up a 
few shoots only, which would develop into stems, leaves, and fruit. But if 
those shoots are cut off when tender and just emerging from the soil the tuber 
will go on putting forth new shoots until at last a few are allowed to develop 
Into stems. It goes without saying that such an extraordinary production is 
very exhaustive to the plant. !n fact, it would soon perish or produce thin 
poor shoots were not the fertility of the land maintained by regular and copious 
manuring. Common salt and kainit are said to be good special fertilisers, but 
I prefer, when available, compost or half-rotted stable or sheep manure. 
The wild asparagus of the old country has always thin shoots, but they 
are remarkably delicate and highly flavoured. The garden asparagus has much 
thicker shoots, and is consequently more profitable. The varieties mostly grown 
in Australia are the Cambden Park, the Erfurt Giant, the Canover’s Giant, 
and a new variety—the Barr’s Mammoth—introduced from America a few 
years ago by Mr. Searle, of Toowoomba. 
If it is desired to save one’s own seeds, some of the best and earliest plants 
should be allowed to develop their stems and seeds. As nothing shows which 
stem will develop into male flowers and which into female flowers, it is better 
to save a good many plants. Let the berries get thoroughly ripe. ‘Then gather 
them, and soak them for about a fortnight in cold water to dissolve the muci- 
laginous matter which surrounds the seeds. Do not forget, though, to change 
the water at least every twenty-four hours, so as to prevent fermentation or 
corruption setting in. Then wash the seeds thoroughly in running water, and 
dry in a shaded but well-aerated place. If well cared for, these seeds will keep 
good for years. 
But I do not think it pays to save sceds, unless one has an exceptionally 
good variety which it seems desirable to multiply. The better plan is always 
to apply to some reliable seedsmen, who have experts who make a specialty of 
that work. 
Most seedsmen supply at reasonable prices not only asparagus seeds but 
also asparagus crowns, usually two years old, which come into bearing about 
fifteen months after transplanting. If you choose to raise your own crowns, 
then sow in the early spring—say from July to September—in any ordinary 
well-worked seed bed, in straight lines 2 feet apart and no less than 6 
inches apart in the row, and cover slightly. It iy always better to have them 
a good distance apart, for in that case their roots do not intermingle with each 
other, and there is no risk of breaking the fingers when lifting the plant for 
transplanting—an accident which is always injurious to the plant. 
In that bed the plants can remain for two years without other care than 
to keep the land well pulverised and free from weeds. ‘Too much water is 
rather injurious to them, and irrigation should be resorted to only in very dry 
weather, 
lor the permanent beds, secure first a good drainage either naturally or by 
artificial means. If it is intended to plant only asmall bed for home consump- 
tion, trenchit by hand for 18 to 24 inches deep, according to the nature of the 
subsoil, pulverise the earth and mix it with half-rotted stable or sheep manure. 
But if it is intended to work on a large scale for market purposes, then simply 
subsoil the land as deep as possible by the means indicated in my article on 
“ Maize-growing’’ (see Journal for December, 1898). Then pulverise and mix 
well with half-rotted manure as above. 
