HOW TO GROW ORCHIDS IN THE HOME 
We are often asked if it is feasible to grow orchids in the home. This question 
may occur to any plant lover cultivating a few geraniums or African violets on a 
window ledge in the home. We try to explain this so that you may form your own 
answer. 
To begin with, orchid plants are not frail, delicate or sensitive. They are, in fact, 
very tough, rugged plants that have won out in the struggle for survival of the 
fittest in the jungle. 
You need not and should not attend them with the care and apprehension you 
would bestow upon an ailing infant, or stay up with them at night. Sometimes it 
gets excessively hot in our location, much hotter than in their native home. Again, 
during several misadventures, the temperature in our orchid houses registered 40 
degrees. Neither extreme seemed to make any difference to the plants. Too long a 
continuation of such conditions would be harmful and is at no time recommended, 
but the point is, the plants are definitely not sensitive. 
Certain conditions for culture are essential and must be observed. 
Location: preferably an eastern exposure. Southern is good but requires more 
shading. In summer (June through August), most plants can have full sunlight until 
9:30 a.m. If the exposure is southern, use light shading, such as gauze or cheese- 
cloth, between 9:30 a.m. and 4:00 p.m. on sunny summer days. In winter, full light 
generally will not burn the foliage. 
Humidity: In winter, spray on sunny mornings, or when compost is dry. In summer, 
spray on sunny mornings and again in mid-afternoon if very warm (over 80). Allow 
plants to dry out between waterings, summer or winter. Remember that spraying 
means sprinkling lightly; watering means soaking thoroughly. Let your schedule for 
watering be determined by the dryness of the compost. This schedule may vary from 
every 4 to every 12 days. The more frequent schedule is necessary during long dry 
spells in summer, or if there is excessive artificial heating in winter. The less frequent 
schedule is followed when natural humidity slows up the drying of the compost. This 
happens during rainy or cloudy spells. When buds start to open, cut down water. 
Spray only compost every 3 or 4 days; avoid wetting flowers. 
When plant has finished flowering, repot in next size pot if the plant has no more 
room for new growths. Allow plant to rest about 10 days before resuming regular 
spraying and watering schedule. 
Provide circulation of air without sudden drafts. Maintain a temperature Old DOO 
at night and 70 during the day. Higher daytime temperatures will do no harm. 
A Wardian case (a glass box fitted with an automatic heating unit and a tray of 
water) is recommended for maintaining greater uniformity of temperature and humidity. 
Feeding of orchids is still in an experimental stage. We recommend alternate feed- 
ings of Wilson's orchid fertilizer and Ortho-Gro (fish emulsion) every 2 weeks when 
plants are in active growth. 
New orchid growers can profit from the experience of others by joining the Amer- 
ican Orchid Society. This includes a subscription to the Bulletin and a copy of the 
Yearbook containing names and addresses of all members. (See page 33). 
About the cost of the plants: They may now be purchased at very reasonable 
prices. We recommend and list standard varieties for the beginner for trial. (See 
“Collections” on p. 19.) A single flowering size Cattleya plant or a Phalaenopsis 
plant may be had for $8.95 postpaid U.S.A. Phalaenopsis can be shipped with flower 
spike only from October through January. 
The above information is intended for general culture of orchids in the home and 
especially for the Cattleya and allied genera, such as Lc. (Laeliocattleya), Bc. (Brasso- 
cattleya) and Blc. (Brassolaeliocattleya). Any special cultural information for other 
types is given under the individual listings. 
34 Greenhouses at Mamdarin on the St. Johns River 
