Wyaut 2 
COMPLETE LIST OF 
FINE 3-YEAR 
Kose 
One of the Most Complete Selections of all 
Kinds of Roses in the World. More than 170 
Tried and Proved Excellent Varieties. 
WYANT ROSES ARE RATED 
HIGHEST by Consumers Digest 
When only 1 or 2 of a kind are ordered: 
24 OR MORE ROSES 
Order early or send a list of second-choice varieties so as to avoid 
12 TO 24 ROSES—10% 
3 of a kind discount applies only when 3 or more of the same 
variety are ordered. 
The discounts do not apply to the Collections. 
If any variety ordered is sold out, we will substitute another Rose 
as near like it as possible unless requested not to. The correct name 
will be put on the bush. 
Please have orders consist of more than one Rose bush. 
THE FINEST 
DEEP PINK 
HYBRID TEA! 
Special Discounts 
disappointment. 
Tree Roses. 
CHARLOTTE 
ARMSTRONG 
$2.00 
15% 
All shipments sent prepaid except Rose Food, Fertilizer, Trellis and 
These prices and discounts supersede all previous lists. 
OHIO CUSTOMERS ADD SALES TAX 
WYANT’S IMPORTANT CULTURAL HINTS 
Please cooperate by reading and following the simple planting directions accompanying each order, even if you have planted Roses before. 
Selection of Location 
In selecting the location for your Rose-bed, it is not im- 
portant whether your plants are to get morning or afternoon 
sunlight, but that they do get at least a half day of sun. 
Part shade is even preferable to a full day of sunlight in 
an established bed. 
Tree Roots 
Select a location where tree roots cannot interfere with 
your Rose roots. It is surprising how quickly tree roots will 
find a Rose-bed and fill it, consuming food and moisture 
intended for the plants. If tree roots are present, dig a 
trench around the bed as deep as the tree roots extend, 
thereby cutting off all that might attempt to enter the bed. 
This trench may be filled in again immediately, and should 
be dug around the Rose-bed every year if the tree roots 
prove bothersome. 
Plant Early 
The best time in the Spring to plant Wyant Roses is just 
as soon as the soil is workable. The larger part of the gar- 
dening public wait until the warm, sunshiny days of Spring 
to start their planting. This is too late to get best results. 
In this latitude late March is an ideal time, and planting 
as late as May seldom gives the results you anticipate. Fall 
planting is usually even safer than Spring planting, but if 
you can plant in early Spring there is no use losing a whole 
season of enjoyment by waiting until Fall, for early Spring- 
planted Hybrid Teas start to bloom in June of the same year. 
Soils 
It is best to keep away from either extremely heavy or 
extremely light soil; loam soils will have more food in them. 
Heavy soils can be improved and made lighter by the ad- 
dition of peat or humus and agricultural slag. Peat or 
humus will also improve light soils and enable them to re- 
tain more moisture. The best soil you can get is the best 
soil for Roses. 
The pH of Soils 
The acidity and alkalinity of soils is designated by pH. 
It has been found that Roses are very tolerant. They will 
grow in a soil from 4.5 pH up to 8 pH, but the best growing 
conditions seem to be found in a soil that is neutral or 
slightly acid—that is, around 6 to 7 pH. Lime in almost 
any form can be used to make soils more alkaline, and 
sulphur to make them more acid. 
Planting 
If you want successful Roses, plant the bushes close to- 
gether, so that the foliage will keep the ground shaded and 
cool—15 to 18 inches is the rule for the Hybrid Teas, the 
taller varieties being placed for the best effect. 
2 
Instead of waiting until the bushes arrive, it is better 
to spade the soil 15 to 18 inches deep several weeks in ad- 
vance adding plenty of peat or humus. And if drainage 
is needed, the bed should be tiled and surplus water carried 
away. Guard against the roots drying out from exposure 
to sun, wind or freezing during planting. Deo not use 
chemical fertilizer when planting Wyant Roses; only bone- 
meal and rotted manure or peat may be used at planting 
time. Whether planting in Spring or Fall, mound soil high 
around the branches immediately after ‘planting to help 
prevent the stems from withering during the time before 
the roots become established. 
Feeding 
In the Spring, when the bank of soil is removed, apply 
Wyant Rose Food, or else a complete chemical fertilizer, 
to the established plants but not to newly set Roses. 
Wyant Rose Food is recommended, because it is of organic 
composition rather than chemical, and even after long 
usage does not make the soil toxic, nor burn, as a chemical 
fertilizer will. Proper fertilizing will produce much bloom, 
so during June or early July make another application to 
new as well as to established Roses, and then again in the 
latter part of August, but not after September 1. Each 
time, apply about a handful to medium strong bushes, less 
to weaker, and more to stronger plants. 
Pruning 
When a Rose is set out in the Spring, shorten the strong 
branches to 8 to 12 inches, and the weaker even more. Heap 
the soil as high as the branches are pruned, to protect 
against drying out, until the roots become established. Re- 
move this bank of soil when the shoots start, so that the 
bud or crown is about level with the soil surface. 
The only Fall pruning recommended is shortening tall 
bushes down to about 2 feet, so that they will not wind- 
whip. The real pruning for established bushes is given in 
the Spring when the bank of soil is removed. At this time 
remove dead wood from the Hybrid Teas and cut the strong 
branches down to the highest big live bud. Shorten or re- 
move weak growth. After the big June bloom, if there is 
a lot of small twiggy growth on the top of the plant, it is 
well to cut it off, down to some good strong growth and 
just above some well-developed eye. 
The weak branches of Polyanthas should be cut down 
and the strong ones shortened one-half. Hybrid Perpetuals 
can be shortened about one-third and from Climbers the 
dead wood should be removed. In July, after the first big 
burst of bloom is over, you may prune Climbers, but prun- 
ing is not recommended unless the plant is too large for 
the trellis 
Watering 
If the soil around your Roses is kept cultivated, it will 
seldom be in need of watering. However, during an ex- 
tended drought, soak the ground thoroughly for hours and 
then do not repeat for a week. Stop all watering and cul- 
tivating about the first of September. 
An application of peat or other porous material put on 
in May and left the rest of the season helps to retain moisture 
and keeps the soil cooler and in better condition for Rose 
growing. It may also help in disease control. 
Suckers 
Suckers are the wild shoots that occasionally spring up 
from below the bud. They can be distinguished from 
flowering shoots by the small, heavily veined leaves and 
often by the thorns on the stems, being entirely different 
from those on the blooming stems. Do not call every stem 
with seven leaflets wild, as many of the flowering stems also 
have seven leaflets. A sucker only comes from below the 
bud. As soon as a sucker is discovered, cut it off clean from 
the main plant below the ground, where it originates, 
without leaving the stub which would send up more shoots. 
Disease and Insect Control 
A little attention and care will remedy the few diseases 
and insects that attack Rose plants. Dusting is preferable 
to spraying, for it is easier and quicker. 
Spray or dust aphids, the small green lice that appear 
about the tips of the shoots, with insecticides containing 
nicotine or rotenone. Spray or dust worms and insects that 
eat leaves, with rotenone or with a poison. Both above pests 
can be controlled with Wyant Rose Dust. 
Knock Rose chafers, the large grayish bugs with long 
legs and snouts, into a pan of water covered with coal-oil. 
Place a drop of shellac or thick white lead on all cut ends 
in the Spring, when pruning is done, to keep out the car- 
penter bee, which makes a hole in the exposed pith. 
Prevent black-spot and mildew by dusting with any of 
Wyant’s Dusts, beginning as soon as the leaves come out 
and continuing about every week, and more often in rainy 
weather. Apply a light, even coat with a gun on a calm 
evening before the dew, if possible, thereby protecting the 
foliage so that it will be retained until frost. 
Winter Protection 
The time-honored method of Winter protection is putting 
a bank of soil around the branches of Hybrid Teas in the 
late Fall before severe freezing occurs. However, Summer 
protection against diseases is more important in keeping a 
Rose alive. If a plant goes into Winter in a good hardened 
condition having retained its foliage until freezing, it will 
live through the Winter in fine shape even without abundant 
covering. Therefore, keep your Roses healthy in the Sum- 
mer and forget your Winter protection. 
