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WEST CHICAGO 
HLUINDIS 
Ylotes on Bulb Culture 
SUGGESTIONS FOR CROFT LILY FORCING 
The bulbs should be potted as soon as received from cold 
storage. Nothing is gained by placing them in pots larger 
than 6 inch unless the bulbs are unusually large. The potting 
soil should be low in nitrates. The use of old Chrysanthemum soil 
is not advocated because high nitrates inhibit root action. The 
incorporation of superphosphate at the rate of a 4 inch pot per 
wheelbarrow (21! bu.) After potting water well 
and place pots beneath bench until roots are formed. They 
should be well-formed by the last week in December. When 
placing pots on the bench water well. Some authorities recom- 
mend keeping them definitely on the dry side until the bud 
is formed, when watering is increased. Others advise watering 
freely, as limiting the water used tends to dwarf the plant and 
reduce flower size as well as favor bud-blasting. Syringing with 
water during the growing season is beneficial according to some 
forcers, but avoid allowing water to stay in the leaf cluster at 
the top of the plant when the buds are just visible, as there is 
danger of inducing bud rot. 
Croft Lilies develop exceptionally large foliage and unless 
given adequate space the lower leaves will turn yellow and be- 
come unsightly. Space so that the leaves barely touch each 
other. Regular fertilizing when the plants are 4-5 inches high, 
with either a complete fertilizer or nitrogenous fertilizers such 
as ammonium sulfate, nitrate of soda, etc., prevent the yel- 
lowing of lower leaves due to nitrogen deficiency. Failure to 
fertilize every 2 to 3 weeks will produce a plant with light- 
colored foliage. Neil Stuart states: ‘“We feed our plants when 
they are a few inches tall, about a month later, and again, 
before flowering, using a complete fertilizer such as 5-10-5 
at the rate of a teaspoonful per pot. If applied as a liquid, 
from 1 to 2 pounds of 5-10-5 plus a pound of nitrate of soda 
or sulfate of ammonia per 100 gallons of water is satisfactory 
when about half pint per pot is applied.’ 
When the buds are just visible, it requires about 5 weeks 
until maturity at 60° F. You should be able to count the buds 
42 days before Easter. When the buds bend over from their 
upright position it requires 2 weeks at 60° F. Some advise re- 
ducing the temperature one week before sale to harden the 
is desirable. 
plants. 
In case the plants are late, they may be forced more rapidly 
by raising the temperature as high as 80-90° F., but it is essen- 
tial to maintain high humidity, by frequent syringing to keep 
the plant growing properly. Watering with 70-80° F. water has- 
tens development of the buds. Be careful in using cold water 
as too sudden a change in temperature often causes lower leaf 
drop. The use of 100-watt bulbs suspended 2 feet above the 
tops of the plants, spaced 4 feet apart from 4-6 hours after 
sundown is also beneficial for extra heavy forcing. Don’t stop 
growth at any time. Keep them coming, slowly if necessary. 
When growth of Croft is stopped, it is slow to start again. 
Aphids are a serious pest on Lilies in that they spread mosaic 
and may cause splitting of the bud with heavy infestations. 
They are readily controlled with nicotine, Vapotone, or various 
other sprays. See planting schedule on page 18. 
TUBEROUS ROOTED BEGONIAS 
For early flowering, place tubers during January and Feb- 
ruary in a warm place in open trays. Moisten slightly once in 
30 
a while until they have come to life. As they begin to sprout, 
plant in flats in a mixture of peat and sand, leaf mold and 
sand, or peat alone—all of which are good mediums for de- 
veloping a root system. Plant tubers 3 to 4’ apart so they are 
a half inch below the surface. Keep uniformly moist but not 
too wet, in a warm place, well lighted, until 3 or 4’ of growth 
develops. Then plant in a permanent location or 4” pots, 5” 
if large bulbs are used. 
The front of the plant is always where the tips of the leaves 
are pointing. Often if dormant tubers are planted in open 
ground, especially if it is too cold or wet, a number of them 
may rot and the planting will be uneven, with some coming 
earlier and some later, with the plants facing in haphazard 
ways. Started first in flats, they will develop a splendid root 
system which is necessary for the forming of fine plants. 
POTTING SOIL: Use a soil mixture of 23 coarse leaf mold 
or well rotted compost and 3 sand and sandy loam top soil, 
plus the addition of some granulated charcoal and cottonseed 
meal or bonemeal. They need a light, coarse, well mixed soil. 
When the plants need shifting into large pots, use the same 
soil mixture. 
FEEDING: If well grown specimens are desired, additional 
feeding will be required, either with fish or cottonseed meals, 
both of which will give fine results. The best method of using 
these fertilizers is to mix with the soil that goes into the lower 
half of the pot, so that the roots will gradually reach into this 
area. If planting outdoors, a heaping tablespoonful for small 
plants and two for large plants will be sufficient when placed 
in the lower half of the planting hole. In pots, a tablespoonful 
for a 6” pot or a small handful for an 8”’ pot will be enough 
to carry the plants thru the season. See that the fertilizer does 
not come into contact with the stem or the leaves, as this may 
cause a burn and attack the growing tissues of the plant. 
An outside planting can be made in May, preferably in loose 
soil and shaded for several days after planting. Space plants 
about 8’ apart. A small amount of fertilizer added in July 
will stimulate growth and flowers. Location should be in partial 
shade. 
WATERING: After transplanting, gentle overhead watering 
is best until the plants are well established. Too heavy water- 
ing during the young stage may pack the soil, keeping it too 
wet, thereby causing the soil to go sour. Later when the plants 
are in full growth, they will require a steady supply of moisture 
as the root system is shallow and any drying out will give a set- 
back to normal development. 
Sizes of pots to be used for various size bulbs: 
Bulb size 2’’ up—minimum 8” or 9” pot. 
Bulb size 1 Y2-2'’—use a 7” pot. 
Bulb size 1 Y4-1 V2’’—use a 6” pot or smaller. 
An ideal window box for the north side of a house can be 
planted up with double Tuberous Rooted Begonias, Caladiums 
and variegated Vinca vines. 
GLOXINIAS 
Culture and soil should be about the same as for Tuberous 
Rooted Begonias except they like more heat and humidity. The 
average temperature about 70°. Very little shade except just 
after re-potting. Humid atmosphere must be kept at all times. 
