Dalle Cale Veale la keGeaAekRi Di Nos) = — Plainville, Connecticut 
CULTURAL HINTS 
Packages of bulbs must be opened as soon as received and the bulbs stored in a 
coo’, dry place until planting time. 
PLANTING DATES. Any time from early Spring until the first of July. The blooming 
season can be prolonged until frost if planted at intervals of three weeks. 
WHERE TO PLANT. Glads shou!'d be planted in open, sunny places, away from buildings 
und trees. They are primarily cut flowers and should be planted in rows such as a 
vegetable garden. 
SOIL. Glads will grow in any kind of soil but do best in a sandy loam. The soil must 
be well drained. It pays to spade deeply. 
FERTILIZING. The amount to use will depend upon the fertility of your soil. Any 
good commercial fertilizer will give good results or you can ask your dealer for the 
fertilizer commonly used on potatoes. in your locality. Most growers prefer to place the 
fertilizer in the bottom of the trench as the bulbs are planted. Care must be taken to 
see that the fertilizer is mixed with the soil and then about 2 inches of soil placed over 
the mixture. The bulbs should then be set in the row, leaving the 2 inches of soil between 
‘hem and the fertilizer. 
DISINFECTING. All bulbs and bulblets should be dipped in a disinfectant in order to 
kill Thrip and to prevent possible disease infection on the bulbs. Nothing will cure 
bulbs affected with any of the rots. Bulbs showing rot should be discarded at once. (See 
formulas for Dips and Sprays.) 
PLANTING. Plant from 3 to 6 inches deep. Small bulbs should be planted about 3 
inches deep and larger sizes up to 6 inches deep. If you have a heavy clay soil 4 to 5 
inches will be deep enough. The bu!bs should be set not closer than 4 inches apart in the 
rows and the soil must be firmed well after planting. 
WATERING. Glads need plenty of moisture. To produce top bloom they should have 
1% to 2 inches of water per week. Whenever the natural rainfall fails to supply this 
quantity be sure to put it on in the form of irrigation. It is best to water just once or 
twice a week, soaking the soil well, so that the roots are not pushing upward to the 
surface of the ground. 
CUTTING BLOOMS. Glads are the most popular cut flower grown today. To enjoy 
them at their best the spikes should be cut when the first floret is in full bloom. They 
should be placed in water at once and taken indoors to develop slowly. You can enjoy 
a spike a long time as a good variety will open every bud to the tip, in water. If the 
water in the vase is changed daily and about an inch of the stem is cut off (slantwise) 
each day, many varieties will keep for as long as a week. When cutting the spike always 
leave 4 leaves on the plant to develop the bulb for the following year. 
DIGGING. Bulbs should not be dug until about 6 weeks after blooming, in order 
to mature the bulbs. A good sign is to watch the foliage and when it begins to turn 
brown, dig at once. After the tops are cut off, close to the bulb, dry the bulbs in the air 
in trays or boxes. It is best not to al!ow the sun to shine directly on them while drying. 
After 2 or 3 weeks of drying the old bu!b and roots can then be removed. DO NOT re- 
move the husks as this protects the bulb during storage. 
STORAGE. After drying, the bulbs should be stored in screen bottom trays or boxes 
in the coolest place available. They must not be exposed to freezing temperatures. The 
ideal storage temperature is 38 to 45 degrees. Bulbs should not be placed too deeply in 
the boxes as they need air while in storage. 
When you get ready to store your bulbs, be sure to give them a light dusting of 
5% D.D.T. This will eliminate any danger of thrips feeding on your bulbs during storage 
period. Glads are easy to grow and anyone, even a beginner, can grow the finest show 
flowers! 
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