If the soil or situation of a farm be unsuited to 
the sowing of barley in February, or if the turnips 
on the field intended for it were not eaten by sheep, 
or drawn and carted in sufficient time to admit of 
February sowing, March ought to be the principal, 
and if possible the sole period for the sowing of bar- 
ley; for, all other circumstances being equal, bar- 
ley sown in March will always be a better crop than 
barley sown at a later period. March excels every 
other season also as a seed-time for white oats; and 
the early part of it competes with the latter part of 
February, the character of being the best seed time 
for sainfoin. All sorts of pease not sown in Feb- 
ruary should be sown in March ; beans and parsnips, 
if prevented by adverse weather from being sown in 
February, ought now to be sown without delay; and 
successive crops of tares or vetches ought likewise to 
be sown. Any time in March will suit for sowing 
carrots; and the latter part of the month, after some 
days of dry weather, is suitable for planting pota- 
toes. At any time, in favourable weather, kohl-rabi 
may be sown for transplanting in June; in the be- 
ginning or middle of the month, lentils may be sown; 
at any time, in tolerable weather, chicory may be 
sown, and mangel-wurzel dibbled in; and about the 
middle of the month, woad, if it should ever again 
come into requisition, may be sown. 
The labours of the barn, for the supply of straw 
to the yard, and of corn to the market, are continued 
| throughout March from January and February. The 
requisite tillage, whether entire or finishing, for the 
various sowings which we have mentioned, requires 
to be performed. The turnip fallow should now be 
thoroughly stirred, cleaned, and pulverized with the 
grubber. The rising wheat crops ought, without 
any delay, to be cleaned and stimulated by scarifying 
or hand-hoeing. All newly ploughed or newly sown 
| fields should be immediately water furrowed with 
the plough and scoured with the spade. 
The water 
should be taken off irrigated meadows for about a 
week in dry weather, in order to allow the sward to 
| become sufficiently firm to bear the tread of sheep; 
and, if the first week of feeding upon these meadows 
should prove cold or rainy, a little hay should be 
| given to the ewes in the evening to intermix with 
| their moist food. 
Special efforts should be made in 
March for destroying moles. Top-dressings may 
now, as in February, be given to green wheat. The 
burning part of the operation of paring and burning 
may now be conducted on any scale. The only crops 
for which composts and farm-yard dung should now 
be carted are potatoes and cabbages. March is the 
season for the nice, intricate, and operose work of 
planting hops. Grass and clover fields intended for 
mowing ought now to be stone-picked. 
The Kitchen Garden.—The produce of the natural 
ground of the kitchen garden available for use in 
March comprises potatoes, turnips, carrots, parsnips, 
cabbages, savoys, borecoles, cabbage-sprouts, garlic, 
onions, leeks, alexanders, asparagus, thyme, water- 
cress, horse-radish, rocambole, sage, salsafy, broc- 
coli, borage, endive, cress-parsley, beets, eschalots, 
balm, cardoons, burnet, celery, chefvil, marjoram, 
mint, corn-salad, Jerusalem artichokes, savory, let- 
tuces, spinach, sea-kale, scorzonera, and sorrel; and 
the produce of hotbeds or other forcing appliances in 
the kitchen garden includes pease, early potatoes, 
rhubarb, cresses, asparagus, lettuces, kidney-beans, 
mustard, mushrooms, and cucumbers. 
In March, transplant all kinds of hardy brassice ; 
transplant to the open ground cauliflower seedlings 
from frames; sow in the open ground cabbages, sa- 
voys, borecoles, broccoli, lettuce, spinach, onions, 
leeks, parsnips, carrots, radishes, beet, asparagus, 
pease, beans, turnips, celery, chervil, coriander, 
parsley, borage, fennel, clary, orache, dill, bugloss, 
| nasturtium, salsafy, scorzonera, marigold, sorrel, 
CALENDAR. 
633 
skirrets, cardoons, burnet, savory, hyssop, marjoram, 
and thyme; sow in slight hotbeds cauliflower, purs- 
lane, basil, capsicums, love-apples, and kidney-beans ; 
dress beds of asparagus and plantations of artichokes; 
earth up pease and beans; plant asparagus, artichokes, 
rosemary, lavender, rue, wormwood, chives, mint, 
potatoes, and Jerusalem artichokes; and maintain 
proper heat upon growing melons and cucumbers,— 
transplant, to new hotbeds, in the beginning of the 
month, the seedlings of melons and cucumbers sown 
since the latter part of January,—make in either old 
or new hotbeds, in any time of the month. new sow- 
ings of melons and cucumbers for transplanting into 
beds, and, in the latter part of the month, new sow- 
ings for planting under hand or bell glasses. 
The Fruit Garden.—The home-grown fruits avail- 
able for use in March are few in number, and consist 
principally of apples, pears, walnuts, filberts, chest- 
nuts, and almonds from last year’s harvest, and forced 
strawberries from hotbeds.—In March, prune fig- 
trees, filbert-trees, apricot-trees, peach-trees, nec- 
tarine trees, and vines; protect the blossoms of apri- 
cot-trees, peach-trees, and nectarine-trees; propa- 
gate fig-trees, vines, filbert-trees, walnut-trees, and — 
chestnut-trees; plant, early in the month, all sorts 
of hardy fruit-trees, which were omitted to be planted 
at the more proper season; train and prune young 
wall and espalier trees of apple, pear, plum, cherry, 
peach, and apricot; prune such gooseberry and cur- 
rant bushes as were omitted to be pruned in the 
preceding month; dress such strawberry plantations 
as were previously neglected ; continue the forcing of 
fruit-trees on hot walls; give liquid manure to young 
vines, peach-trees, and other tender fruiting shrubs 
and trees in pots; graft apple-trees, pear-trees, plum- 
trees, cherry-trees, and other kinds of fruit-trees ; 
shorten the shoots of grafted or budded fruit-trees of 
a year’s growth; and finish the present year’s plant- 
ing of fruit-tree stocks for grafting and budding. 
The Flower Garden.—Such tender annuals as were 
sown in February should now be pricked out, and | 
set in new hotbeds, or, in a few instances, in pots. 
Most kinds of tender annuals may be sown, at any 
time of the month, upon hotbeds. Half-tender an- 
nuals should be sown, about the middle of the 
month, on slight hotbeds. All kinds of hardy an- 
nuals may be sown in mild weather, and some 
kinds in even coldish weather, upon the open bor- 
ders. Choice hardy perennial plants in pots, such 
as carnations, campanulas, and auriculas, should be 
dressed and receive some fresh soil. Choice auriculas, 
tulips, hyacinths, ranunculuses, and anemones, in the 
open ground, should be protected from frosts, keen 
winds, and excessive rains. Very fine hyacinths, 
with close spikes and ample petals, in the open 
ground, should be supported with sticks, and spe- 
cially protected. Layered carnations and other lay- 
ered plants, which were not attended to in February, 
should now be removed and transplanted. The 
planting of anemones and ranunculuses, for the pre- 
sent year, should now be completed. 
hardy, perennial, fibrous-rooted plants may be lifted, 
and, if necessary, have their root-clod divided, to fill 
vacancies in the borders, or to effect an improved 
distribution of heights and colours. Most kinds of 
hardy biennials and fibrous-rooted perennials may, in 
the latter part of the month, be sown in the open 
ground. The digging and dressing of the ground in 
shrubberies, and the pruning of all kinds of evergreen 
and flowering shrubs, should be completed early in 
the month. The transplanting of many kinds of de- 
ciduous flowering shrubs, as roses, lilacs, dogwood, 
dwarf almond, double-flowering cherry, guelder-rose, 
spirceas, sumach, honeysuckle, candleberry myrtle, 
snowberry, and laburnum, may still be safely effected ; 
and edgings of box, thrift, pmks, double daisies, or 
none-so-pretty may still be planted. Dahla tubers 
Most kinds of | 
2) 
