CAMELLIA. 
in winter, than when kept in any higher tem- 
perature ; yet, during the period of its forming 
its chief annual increase of bulk and substance, 
an increase in the heat around it is very de- 
cidedly advantageous. A temperature of from 
43° to 45° Fahrenheit, during every night from 
the beginning of October till the end of March, 
maintained with the utmost possible regularity 
or equality, is regarded by the Abbe Berlese as 
essential to the preservation of the flower-buds, 
and as the grand remedy for the evil so much 
complained of in both France and Britain,—the 
decaying and dropping off of a large proportion 
of the buds. The Abbe ascribes the immatura- 
tion of decaying flower-buds to the circum- 
stance of the vegetating power of the plant be- 
ing, at this period, active only in the flower-buds 
and not throughout its other organs; and he 
| states that, in the course of forty-eight hours, 
during a fall of temperature from 59° to 25°, he 
_ observed the flower-buds to drop off from one 
hundred fine camellias. Four varieties which 
expand their buds with great difficulty are C. 
| Dorsetti, Woodsii, Chandleri, and florida; but 
even these, if kept through winter in an uniform 
temperature immediately above the freezing- 
point, especially when they are aided by a thin- 
ning out of their buds, will expand their blos- 
soms as fully as the least shy and most robust 
varieties—The aphis, the ant, the coccus, and 
other insects which infest camellias may be de- 
stroyed by tobacco-smoke, and removed with a 
sponge and water; and worms which get into 
the pots and infest the roots, may be destroyed 
with a decoction of tobacco. 
All the fine varieties of camellia may be pro- 
pagated by imarching or grafting and budding 
either on stocks raised from seeds of the kinds 
already incidentally noticed, or on stocks raised 
from cuttings of the common single red variety. 
Cuttings of this variety strike root much more 
readily than those of the double-flowering va- 
rieties ; they are taken in July or August, or as 
soon as the young shoots are sufficiently ripe at 
the base; they are cut smoothly over with a 
sharp knife at a joint, and divested of one or two 
leaves at the bottom; and they are then firmly 
planted about two inches deep, in pots filled in 
their lower half with the soil most suitable for 
growing camellias, and in their upper half with 
fine white sand. The would-be plants are well- 
watered, plunged in a tan-bed or other slight 
hotbed, and kept closely shaded for three or four 
months; when sufficiently rooted to bear re- 
moval, they are potted singly in small pots, well 
drained, and filled with camellia compost con- 
taining a small addition of sand; afterwards, 
they are sprinkled with water, and placed in a 
close frame or pit till they begin to root afresh ; 
and finally, they are exposed by degrees to the 
air, and begun to be treated in a somewhat simi- 
lar manner to the older plants. In the succeed- 
ing year, many of the stocks thus raised from 
CAMPHOR. 
663 
cuttings will be ready for inarching or budding ; 
and in the second year, all the remainder will be 
ready. The best time for inarching is early in 
spring, just before the plants begin to grow; and 
for budding, as soon as the new wood is suffi- 
ciently ripened. Camellias inarched in March 
are fit to be separated by the end of August; and 
plants inarched in May are fit to be separated in 
October. The methods of grafting the camellia 
practised in France and Belgium, are inarching, 
approach-cutting, cleft-grafting, and side-graft- 
ing. Seeds of camellia should be sown as soon 
as they are ripe, in heath soil, and placed in a 
mild and humid atmosphere; and though the 
seedlings from them most frequently do not come 
up till the second year, they can very generally, 
if treated with ordinary care, be brought to 
flower at the end of five or six years.—Berlese’s 
Monograph of the Genus Camellia —The Gardener’s 
Chronicle.—The Gardener's Gazette—The Garden- 
ers Magazine—The Magazine of Domestic Econo- 
ny.—Loudon’s Hortus Britannicus.—Loudon’s En- 
cyclopedia of Plants. 
CAMERARIA. A genus of ornamental, ever- 
green, tropical trees and shrubs, of the dog’s-bane 
tribe. The broad-leaved species, C. latifolia— 
sometimes popularly called bastard manchineel— 
grows wild, in great plenty, in Havannah, and 
was introduced thence to Britain during the for- 
mer half of last century. Its stem usually rises 
to the height of about thirty feet, and divides 
into several branches; its leaves are roundish 
pointed, much veined, and opposite; and its 
flowers are produced in loose clusters at the ends 
of the branches, have a yellowish-white colour, 
and appear in August. Both this species, and 
two others which have been introduced, are 
handsomely- flowering plants, and are easily pro- 
pagated from cuttings. Three described species 
have not yet been introduced. 
CAMPANULA. See BeLirioweEr. 
CAMPHINE. Purified oil of turpentine, em- 
ployed for burning in lamps peculiarly constructed 
for it. Being a liquid rich in carbon, it is ne- 
cessary to bring a large quantity of air in con- 
tact with it in a given time in order to prevent 
the flame from smoking and to produce great 
brilliancy. This is generally effected by not al- 
lowing the wick scarcely to rise above the con- 
taining cylinders, by the use of longer chimneys, 
by using an outer cylinder or cone which throws 
the outer current of air obliquely against the 
flame, and by the use of a moveable button of 
the same diameter as the wick, and directly 
above it, by which the inner current of air is 
directed against the flame. The two counter 
currents of air supply sufficient oxygen in a 
given time to produce a white light of great in- 
tensity, and the amount of flame is regulated by 
raising or depressing the button, so that if it be 
depressed very low, the flame is extinguished or 
burns blue. 
CAMPHOR. A white, resinous production, of 
