DAHLIADEL CULTURAL INSTRUCTIONS 
by Warren W. Maytrott 
POTASH-FED DAHLIAS 
We have had so many requests for our old instruc- 
tions, often termed the ‘Dahlia Grower’s Bible’, that 
we have rewritten them adding the newer ideas of 
storage and all the minute details regarding pests and 
their control together with what we have learned 
through the years about fertilizing and growing. 
“POTASH-FED DAHLIAS” is not only an established 
trade name, but a modern and successful method of 
growing dahlias so that they are literally alive with 
energy, assuring you of cultural success. In South Jersey, 
with its long growing season, well-ripened stock can be 
produced that will give the best possible results. We 
have found that dahlias grown in the lighter soils for a 
period of from one to three years will do wonderfully 
well when moved to heavier soil conditions with no time 
lost for acclimation. 
Most important of all is the health of stock from 
which your plants, pot roots or roots were grown. This 
condition has its direct effect on the results obtained; 
for an unhealthy plant cannot take up potash, or any 
other element of plant food, in sufficient quantities while 
in this condition. Hence, a dahlia must be healthy be- 
fore it can be Potash-Fed. You must have the best stock 
that can be produced to have 100% success. Buying 
inferior stock at low cost is not an economical way to 
buy and seldom is the way to success. 
CULTURAL INSTRUCTIONS 
The following directions are based upon years of ex- 
perience and should be of value in solving many of 
your cultural problems. These suggestions should be 
changed to suit local conditions. However, we sincerely 
believe that the fundamental principles involved will 
apply throughout the country. 
SOIL PREPARATION 
The dahlia will grow and produce excellent results in 
a wide range of soils, other conditions being favorable. 
It is not so much a matter of soil type as it is condi- 
tioning. To grow exhibition blooms to perfection, the 
nearer soil can be to ideal the better your results will 
be. Soil should contain enough clay to keep the fertility 
from leaching and also enough sand or stones to facil- 
itate drainage. Fifty to sixty-five percent sand is con- 
sidered ideal. 
DRAINAGE. The primary factor in growing dahlias is 
that of dreinage, which in sandy soils is well taken 
care of, but in heavy soils a quantity of coarse coal 
ashes should be dug in and thoroughly mixed with the 
subsoil. Then coarse manure, straw or litter should be 
mixed into the top-soil. The addition of a good quantity 
of coarse sand will help drainage and aeration wonder- 
fully in compact or clayey soil. 
For soggy soil we might suggest ditching 18 or more 
inches deep where the row is to be planted, running 
the ditch with the slope if possible. Fill in with coarse 
ashes, clinkers or any coarse material that will not rot, 
keeping it below spading depth, then fill in top with 
soil mixed with sand or the part of hard coal ashes 
about the size of corn or a little larger. 
LIMING. As a rule, the dahlia does well in a neutral 
to slightly acid soil. Liming not only neutralizes acid, 
but makes the natural humus in the soil available as 
well as loosening heavy soil. Should your soil be in- 
clined to acid, ground limestone applied at the rate of 
3 to 5 Ibs. to each 100 square feet is a safe practice 
on medium to heavy soil every 3 or 4 years. However, 
a pH test is advisable. 
Where winters are severe, sow rye or rye grass in 
late September or October. The green crop will do no 
harm during the late blooming season, will winter over, 
and should be turned under about two weeks before 
planting. In New Jersey and further south, rye or rye 
grass can be sowed after digging roots. A cover crop 
will add organic matter, supply humus and further ad- 
just soil conditions. Fall fertilizing. If soil is on the poor 
side a top dressing of fresh or composted cow, stable 
or even chicken manure after digging roots in the fall 
or early winter will certainly improve growth the fol- 
lowing year. Chicken manure, however, should be used 
very sparingly. The above top dressing can be used if 
no cover is planted, adding to it 
4 lbs. Super Phosphate. 
1 lb. Muriate or Sulphate of Potash for each 100 
square feet and working the top-soil over enough 
to keep the manure and chemicals from being 
washed away. 
A good time to work or spade over the soil, when 
no cover crop was planted, is about a month before 
planting, digging rather deep and thoroughly breaking 
up all lumps. Then rake the ground over about once a 
week to retain moisture. 
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