FERTILIZER 
Of the ten elemnts considered absolutely necessary to 
plant growth, we find nitrogen, phosphorus and potas- 
sium the prime essentials and the ones usually most 
lacking. However, deficiencies in some of the minor 
elements may upset your plant growth materially. 
NITROGEN stimulates growth above ground, produc- 
ing large bushes with dark green foliage and large flow- 
ers, while lack of sufficient nitrogen will produce a poor 
general growth. Excessive use of nitrogen from any 
source, especially without the balancing of phosphorus 
and potash, will produce large soft bushes and blooms 
with weak stems and a very poor root crop io keep 
over winter. The common source of nitrogen is humus 
(decomposed vegetable matter or manure). It can be sup- 
plied in dry or fresh cow or sheep manure, bone meal, 
dried blood or fish scrap, or in commercial fertilizers. 
PHOSPHORUS is very essential in plant growth as it 
strengthens the plant in general, stiffens the stems and 
adds substance to the foliage and blooms. It increases 
root development, especially the lateral and _ fibrous 
roots, and aids in ripening the roots. Phosphorus along 
with potash helps overcome ill effects of excessive 
nitrogen. The common sources are super-phosphate and 
bone meal. 
POTASH is the balancing agent for nitrogen and phos- 
phorus. It gives color to the flowers and foliage, and 
vigor and tone to the plant in general. It is an essential 
in starch formation and aids in the maturing of well- 
nourished roots. This is found in wood ashes, muriate 
or sulphate of potash. 
SPRING FERTILIZING. When super-phosphate, potash 
and manure are used as a top dresser as recommended 
under Fall Fertilizing no further fertilizing is necessary 
until after planting. 
With no fall soil preparation, apply broadcast before 
spading, 4 lbs. super-phosphate or 5 Ibs. bone meal 
along with 1 lb. muriate or sulphate of potash or rec- 
ommended substitutes. The above should be completed 
2 or more weeks ahead of planting. 
SUMMER FERTILIZER OR TOP DRESSING to be applied 
between July 15 and August Ist. Scatter evenly around 
the plant, not nearer than 8 inches or more than 18 
inches from the stalk, a good general crop or potato 
fertilizer analyzing 
5-10-10 for the average light soil or 
5-10-5 for heavy soil naturally good in potash at the 
rate of 1% lb. per hill, or you can make your own 
top dressing as follows for each 10 hills: 
2 lbs. Bone Meal 
5 lbs. Dry Cow or Sheep Manure 
V2 |b. Muriate or Sulphate of Potash. 
(Substitute for Potash 5 lbs. hard wood ashes that has 
been kept dry until being spread on soil.) 
DAHLIADEL NURSERIES 
PLANTING 
WHERE TO PLANT. In selecting a location for dahlias, 
it is essential to have a free circulation of air for healthy 
plant growth and to prevent mildew. Dahlias need direct 
sunlight at least 3 or 4 hours, preferable 6 to 7 hours, 
each day and should not be planted near large trees or 
dense shrubbery which would shade the plants and use 
moisture and plant-food. 
WHEN TO PLANT. Should you desire a mass of color 
for landscape effect or a number of smaller blooms to 
cut, early planting is recommended. For exhibition 
blooms later planting is advisable, unless you intend to 
cut back, prune and disbud systematically. 
Dahlias should be planted in Southern New England, 
Southern New York State, Pennsylvania and North Jer- 
sey between May 15th and June 15th, while in South 
Jersey, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia and interior States 
of the same latitude the planting period extends from 
May Ist to July 1st; North Carolina from April 15th on, 
South Carolina and Georgia from April Ist on, advanc- 
ing through Florida to January in the citrus fruit belt. 
Farther north, where hot summers are less harmful and 
early frosts are prevalent, planting may commence as 
soon as danger of frost is over. In the northern parts 
of the United States and Canada we recommend start- 
ing dahlia roots, pot roots or plants in a cold frame in 
pots or in squares of inverted sod, so they can be 
planted in your garden without disturbing the feed 
roots. When plants or stalks get to be 6 inches high 
they should be topped back, leaving preferably two 
nodes above the ground, see P on Drawing X. When 
green plants are grown in 2 to 2¥2-inch pots, as soon 
as a good root growth is developed they should be re- 
potted in 3 to 4-inch pots and topped out at time of 
re-potting. 
HOW TO PLANT. When planting large flowering 
dahlias, the rows should be from 4 to 5 feet apart, or 
from 6 to 10 square feet should be allowed for each 
plant. A novel way to plant is to place your stakes 
4 x 5 feet apart, and plant a root, pot root or plant 
at each side of the stake so that stalk will be about 
2 inches from stake. This will allow better air condi- 
tion and more room for cultivation. Varieties will not 
mix in growing them together and should one plant 
fail, there will be no blank spaces. However, care 
should be exercised in not planting a strong rapid 
grower at the same stake with a slow or dwarf grow- 
ing variety. Bush heights should be about equal. 
Do not plant roots, pot roots or plants in or over 
hot manure or any quantity of compost or fertilizer. 
Although practiced by some, we do not recommend the 
use of any dahlia fertilizer or bone meal in the hole 
directly under, or where it will contact the dahlia root, 
pot root or plant, as there is too much danger of in- 
juring the tender feed roots. However, you can use old 
compost with bone meal and wood ashes or recom- 
mended substitutes used in moderation when kept deep 
enough so root, pot root or plant can be planted above 
it in regular garden soil. These holes should be prepared 
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