the house or hot-bed and 
Di d when ground is warm. 
__ Give each plant not less than 1 inch space 
in the hot-bed, rows 4 inches apart. 
They like rich soil and warm growing 
weather, gst : 
Irish Potatoes 
___ Seed stock should be cut, so that each 
_ Piece will have two or three eyes. Seed 
_ pieces about 1” to 1%” square are best. The 
pieces are planted 4 inches deep and 12 to 
_ 14 inches apart in rows 3-to 3% feet apart. 
= Spring planting is made as soon as danger of 
_ heavy frost is over and late plantings should 
be made any time from the last of June to 
August 15th. Good cultivation is important. 
After digging the potatoes do not allow them 
to remain in the open sun, Store in a dry, 
well ventilated, cool place. 
_ Sweet Potatoes 
about six weeks before time -to set out. 
Good, sound sweet potatoes should be placed 
in a bed as Close as possible without touch- 
‘ing and covered with about two inches of 
clean sand. Plants are then set on low 
ridges about 14 to 16 inches apart in rows 
3 feet apart. Set out in the garden after all 
danger of frost is past. Harvest the crop 
right after the first frost. Allow potatoes to 
dry out in the sun for four or five hours, 
Be careful not to bruise. Store in a dry 
warm, well ventilated storage place. 
Radish—See Chart 
Plant often so that you can always have 
them crisp and tender. 
Use them fresh from the garden before 
they become tough and woody. | 
Plant the long varieties for late spring and 
summer use. ss 
Plant the winter varieties in late July when 
you plant late turnips and thin to at least 
six inches in the row. 
Salsify— 
See Chart 
Dig just before 
hard freezing weather 
and store in a shal- 
low pit where it will 
freeze, for freezing 
improves the flavor, 
_ It is especially fine 
in soups either alone 
or with other vege- 
tables or with oys- 
ters. 
MEDICINE 
DROPPER 
A LLL: 
An easy way to 
tiny seeds. 
7A 
plan 
Spinach 
Plant early in rows 14 inches apart, cover- 
hie the seed from three-fourth to one inch 
leep. : 
Thin later to about 3 or 4 inches in the 
row. 
packet, 25 feet. ad Pine banes 
_ Plant as early as possible for it is most 
_ appreciated early in the season. > ; 
___ Spinach can be planted in late summer and 
_ ¢arried over winter by mulching same as for 
hs strawberries. aa : 
Squash—See Char 
For large seeded squash figure. 25 hills to 
_the ounce of seed and for small seed 50 hills 
to the ounce. : ee é 
Summer Squashes are delicious if used 
before they are a third or half grown. 
_ Combat squash bugs by dusting with Bug 
Dust. z 
Spaghetti Squash 
Spaghetti squash is ready to use when the 
shell gets so hard you can’t dent it with 
your thumb nail. Some like to bake the 
squashes whole just as they come from the 
garden, and 45 minutes in a good hot oven 
is usually about right to do the job well. 
_ After baking, break the squash open, remove 
the seeds, the fleshy part comes out very 
easily, butter it liberally and season to taste. 
_ You have a real treat in store. 
We have been told that the spaghetti squash 
| may also be cooked—in other words, just 
| drop the squash in a kettle of water and give 
a good thorough boiling. 
Let us hear how you like our spaghetti 
_ squash. 
a week or ten days another be- 
tween the rows of that first |\ 
_ planting. ‘ 
_ For succession plant an early, 
an intermediate and a late va- 
riety at the same time. Or make 
several plantings of your favor- 
ite variety, or plant my special 
blend which ripens in succession. 
| Be sure not to plant sweet corn close, or 
you will have only fodder and no ears to eat. 
-Tomato—See Chart 
Sow seed eight to ten weeks before set- 
ting in the field. 
Any of the early bunch vegetables can be 
rown between the tomato rows. 
Drive three stakes around a tomato plant 
and fasten a barrel hoop to them and allow 
the plant to grow up through. This will act 
as a support. 
_ PRUNING: Tomato vines are trained to a 
ngle stem, or two stems. You can pinch 
ut the terminal bud when the plants reach 
the height of about 5 ft. The vines should 
gone over each week and any new shoots 
arting out from the main stem should be 
hed off. Do not pinch off the blossom 
f you are in doubt, allow this bud 
) until the next week, 
Pata” ¢ 
- _ Sweet potatoes can be started in hot beds— 
One ounce will drill 100 feet; one 
* Onions 
* 
Free Booklet on Freezing 
Fruits and Vegetables 
Write the U. S. Department of Agriculture, 
Office of Information, Washington See sea 
for their new Farmer’s Bulletin IS48, “Home 
Freezing of Fruits and Vegetables.’ It’s free 
for the asking and a good one too. 
Watermelons—See Chart 
Drop 6 seeds to the hill and thin later 
when bugs are gone to 2 plants to hill. Fig- 
ure 50 hills to the ounce of seed. 
If you want extra big melons keep all 
but two or three on the vine picked off as 
fast as they appear. 
If you plant in hills make them not closer 
than 8 x 10 feet and as far apart as 12 x 12 
feet or even farther, sometimes. 
At this distance some growers allow only 
one plant to the hill, 
A dull green color indicates a ripe melon 
and a bright green color an unripe melon, 
About Canning 
Space is too limited to give you all the 
information you would want about canning, 
but you can easily get full and very excel- 
lent directions by writing to the Bureau of 
Home Economies, Dept. of Agriculture, Wash- 
ington, D. C., for the canning information 
they will be glad to give you, or sending to 
the Kerr Glass Mfg. Corp., 2913 Main St.; 
Sand Springs, Okla. They put out excellent 
books on canning which cost you only 15c. 
By all means, everyone should can plenty 
of vegetables, and fruit this year. Be sure 
you have plenty to eat by GROWING YOUR 
OWN and CANNING YOUR OWN. 
A CANNING PLANNING GUIDE 
Home- Am't. 
Grown to Pre- 
Vegetables | serve 
and Per 
Fruits Person 
Per Yr. 
Amount to Plant 
How to Preserve Per Person 
Other 
Methods 
Preferred 
Method 
GROUP 1 
Tomatoes... . 
GROUP 2 
Cabbage . |Pit storage 18 plants 
18 plants 
9 ft. 
. | Freezing 15 ft. 
. [Pit storage 
. |Pit storage 
. |Pit storage 
. |Dry storage 
. |Dry storage 
String beans. . |Canning 
| Asparagus... 8 crowns 
4 plants 4 plants 
8 plants 
Freezing 
Freezing 
. |Freezing 
. |Drying 
. |Canning } 
. [Freezing Salting 
Beans, dried. 
Corn 
GROUP 6 
bu. |Cellar 
. |Dry storage 
. |Dry storage 
FRUITS 
bu. |fCellar 
Nee nning 
Canning 
Freezing 
Canning 
Apples 
Use also 
for ielly, 
marma- 
lade, 
conserve, 
jam, 
butter, 
spicing 
Peaches 
. [Canning 
\ Freezing 
Canning 
Canning 
. {Canning 
| Freezing 
About Inoculation 
We get hundreds of letters each year ask- 
ing whether inoculating garden seed with 
“Nitragin’’ pays. The answer is, YES, DECID- 
EDLY, YES. It is only of value on garden 
peas, beans and Sweet Peas, but on these it 
makes a world of difference in the vigor of 
the plant and the amount of yield. We sell 
many thousands of packets each year. A 
15¢ pkt. is enough for the average gardener 
as 1 pkt. treats 5 Ib. of seed. Easy to apply. 
Full directions on the package. 
Another big aid to improving crops is the 
new Hormone-Vitamin concentrate ‘““GROW- 
AID” which stimulates quick root growth 
and makes for quicker and heavier crops on 
all garden seeds, flower seeds and nursery 
stock. It is relatively new, but working 
wonders wherever used. Try it this year and 
make your garden EXTRA high-yielding. 
Crop Features to Utilize 
Crops Occupying the Ground All of the 
Growing Season: Beans (Pole, Snap), Beans 
(Pole, Lima), Chard (Swiss), Cucumbers, 
Eggplant, Muskmelon, Okra, Onions, Parsley, 
Parsnip, Peppers, Sweet Potatoes, Irish Late 
Potatoes. Pumpkins, Salisfy, Squash, (Win- 
ter), Spinach (New Zealand), Tomatoes, Wa- 
termelons, 
Crops Occupying Ground Part of Season and 
May Be Followed by Others: Beans (Bush), 
Beets, Cabbage, Cabbage (Chinese), Carrots, 
Corn, Kale, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mustard, 
(Green), Peas, Potatoes (Early) 
Spinach, Turnip, (Spring), Rutabaga 
(Spring). " 
Crops Which May Follow Others: Beans 
(Bush), Beets, Cabbage, Carrots, Corn, Cel- 
ery, Lettuce, Mustard, Late Potatoes, Ruta- 
baga (Fall), Spinach, Turnips (Fall). 
Crops Which May Be Utilized in Interplant- 
ing: (Early, quick-maturing, narrow-spaced) 
Bush), Beets (Early), Garrots 
oe Lettuce, Mustard, Onions (Sets), 
Peas (Early), Radish, Spinach., « (Later, 
er-growing, wider-spaced) Broccoli, Brus- 
aay. Brent. Corn, Cucumber, Muskmelons, 
Cabbage, Pumpkins, Spinach (New Zealand), 
Tomatoes, Squash, Watermelons, 
hich May Be Planted Together in 
Be. Baw! (Quick-germinating and ma- 
turing) Lettuce (Leaf), Mustard, Radish, 
Spinach. (Slower-germinating and maturing) 
Beets, Chard, Carrots, Leek, Spinach (New 
Zealand), Parsley, Parsnips, Salisfy, Onions 
(Seed). 
: Crop Succession 
Plant radish seed very thin and follow at 
once with parsnip, carrot, parsley, asparagus, 
onion or leek right in the same row. Pull the 
radish and use when it is large enough. 
Plant Beets, Kohlrabi, Lettuce, Mustard, 
Spinach, Onion Sets, Radish or early Beans 
or Peas between rows of late Cabbage, 
Melons, Squash or Tomatoes. 
Plant radish very early followed by early 
Cabbage plants set every two feet m the row 
and after the cabbage is off sow late turnips 
or Chinese Cabbage. 
Plant two rows of Potatoes 
between each two Watermelon 
rows and dig potatoes after 
the Melons are goné. 
Follow early Peas and Beans 
with late Cabbage. 
Celery may follow’ early 
Peas, Beans, Lettuce, Radish 
.or Spinach, 
Plant late turnips in vacant spaces about 
the garden. 
Starting Plants in the House 
A hot bed is the best place to start plants 
if you are willing to go to the trouble to 
make a good one. However, a box of good 
dirt placed in a south window of the house 
where it wil get as much sunshine as pos- 
sible and in a room where the temperature 
does not vary much is good. 
Tf the soil you use does not already contain 
a large percent of humus, use about 50 per 
cent well rotted manure. This amount is 
only suggestive, as there is a wide difference 
in different samples of dirt. What we mean by 
“Well rotted manure” is manure that could 
almost be classed as dirt. Don’t use fresh 
manure. 
Cover all small seeds about one-half inch 
deep. Make the rows 8 to 4 inches apart. 
Keep the surface soil moist until the plants 
are up or you may have trouble in getting a 
stand. 
Bug Dust 
Since gardening began, insects have waged 
war on gardens. Today’s gardener has a 
powerful weapon against bugs in the form of 
Bug Dust. 
You really won't believe how well my 
BUG DUST works until you see it work your- 
self. Some folks call it a ‘‘Miracle Dust.” 
BUG DUST works three ways. It not only 
is a STOMACH POISON but a CONTACT 
POISON and FUNGICIDE—ALL IN ONE 
DUST. 
No need to buy three dusts—use our “BUG 
DUST.” 
Henry Field’s BUG DUST is safe. Does 
not harm even the most delicate plants when 
used as directed. Absolutely leaves no poison- 
ous residue, 
Dust plants early before heavy infestation 
appears. Dust both top and bottom of leaves. 
Redust once a week until controlled and after 
any heavy rain. For cutworms mix Bug 
Dust with soil at base of plants. Bug Dust 
can be used as a spray by diluting 1% tea- 
spoonful in gallon of water. Dust animals 
and poultry to rid them of fleas and lice. 
USE BUG DUST ON 
Beans Alyssum 
Cabbage Carnations 
Cauliflower Dahlias 
Cucumbers Gladiolus 
Egg Plant Gen. Foliage 
Lettuce Tris 
Muskmelons Peonies 
Peas Roses 
Peppers Sweet Peas 
Pumpkins Snapdragons 
Eat’ Violets 
meat Currants 
Tomato 
Watermelon Grapes 
Asters Gooseberries 
House Plants Strawberry 
Asparagus All Flowers 
And all other small Plants. 
Winter Storage of Vegetables 
Surplus garden vegetables can be stored 
in an unheated garage, storage house or shed 
for a month or so depending on how low 
the temperatures fall. 
Store only those vegetables which are in 
good condition. Dig beets, potatoes, turnips, 
carrots and rutabagas as late as possible 
before the ground begins to freeze and cut 
the tops off. Do not clean the dirt from 
them, but place in boxes and pack in sand, 
loam and sawdust. The temperature should 
be between 35 and 40 degrees. 
The vegetables can also be stored in a 
‘basement, in which the temperatures can be 
kept down and ventilation provided, on racks, 
shelves, slat bins or boxes, raised off the 
floor. A conerete floor should be sprinkled 
every few days and a dirt floor kept some- 
what damp. 
Pumpkins, squash and sweet potatoes 
should be stored at temperatures between 
55 and 65. 
When storage is required for a longer pe- 
riod, an outdoor storage pit may be made 
by digging a pit the desired size and deep 
enough to stand in. The vegetables may be 
stored in boxes, bins or shelves. Lay heavy 
boards over the pit even with the surface 
Building a 
eee. PIN 
weir HOOK TO 
HOLD SASH 
UP WHEN 
NEEDED 
If you don’t want to go to the trouble of 
making a hot bed or haven’t enough good 
manure on hand to build one, you can do 
very well with a cold frame. 
A cold frame is built same as you build 
r 
and cover with a mound of earth. A ditch 
should be dug around the mound to lead 
surface water away. A door should be fitted 
to the entrance, preferably two doors with 
ay air space between them to keep out the 
Trost. 
When the quantity to be stored does not~ 
require a very large pit, vegetables may be 
Jaid in a box, which is lined and éovered ~ 
with straw, set in a small pit covered with 
earth. Or a barrel may be used or a conical 
mound may be made to cover vegetables 
piled up like a pyramid. 
Do not close outdoor root cellars tightly 
until the temperature inside has dropped 
close to freezing and do not cover earth pits 
until the soil has cooled off thoroughly. 
Best Vegetables for Freezing 
SNAP BEANS—Stringless Green Pod, Topcrop. 
SNAP BEANS, WAX POD—Pencil Ped black 
wax, Cherokee Wax. q 
LIMA BEANS—Green Seeded Baby Lima. 
CORN—Y-81I, Giant Bantam Hybrid, 
Cross Bantam, Country Gentleman, 
Stowell’s Evergreen. 
GREENS—Swiss Chard, Kale, Spinach. 
PEAS—Liitle Marvel, Freezonian. 
Golden 
Hybrid 
Cold Frame 
the frame for a hot bed. It should be about 
eighteen inches high at the back side and 
twelve inches at the front. Place it in a 
sheltered sunshiny situation and back around 
so that the wind will not get in. Cover with 
glass or Glass Cloth. 
Plant seed in a cold frame a week or so 
later than you would in a hot bed. You can 
grow all hardy vegetables, such as cabbage, 
beets, lettuce, radish, onions, 
and kohl rabi. 
caulifiower, 
Beets, lettuce and onions transplant as 
easily as cabbage. And you can advance 
radishes a couple of weeks by planting them 
in this cold frame. Of course, the soil should 
be rich and mellow. 
How to Make Hot Beds 
You will find lots of pictures and descrip- 
tions printed showing how to make a hotbed, 
but from our own practical experience, con- 
sider most of the printed directions wrong in 
showing a box frame going clear down the 
bottom of the pit, as most of them do. 
We have made hundreds of hotbeds, and our 
plan is to dig an ordinary hole in the ground, 
two or three feet deep and a little larger than 
the size of the hotbed we expect to make. For 
instance, if we are going to make a six-foot 
bed make the hole about seven feet across. 
We then fill this full of manure, preferably 
fresh horse manure with plenty of straw in 
it, distribute it evenly and tramp it down sol- 
idly so that when finished it is at least four 
inches above the ordinary ground level. 
Then make your frame of ordinary 1-inch 
boards, put it on top of this manure pile and 
fill it inside with dirt, four inches deep, and 
you are ready. 
Nursery Co., “MIDWEST’S LEADING SEEDHOUSE,” Shenandoah, lowa 
The dirt that is thrown out in excavating 
the hole can be used to bank up around the 
frame, practically to the top of it and ex- 
tending back a foot or so on each side to 
protect the hotbed from the cold weather. 
The back side of the hotbed should be the 
highest, and we generally get this by using a 
2-iach board at the back side and an 8-inch 
board at the front, although it might be well 
to give it even more pitch than this. 
The hotbed can be covered with either 
cloth or glass frames. Glass frames are a 
little the best, but they are quite expensive, 
The operating of the hotbed is best learned 
by actual experience. You have to make 
two or three of them and spoil part of them 
before you learn, but that is the only way to 
learn. 
The main thing is to get started on them 
and get your cabbage and toniato seed 
planted. 
21 
