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8 
of dirt from being washed away in the pos- 
sible warm winter rains. 
All strawberries or perennials with a leafy 
rown Over which dirt cannot be piled, should 
have a mulch of 4 to 6 inches of rye or oat 
traw or some other litter that will not pack 
and rot, put over them after the ground 
freezes. This should be taken off gradually 
n the spring after the ground thaws. 
SEeGHE 7  MooLRATE 
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@RUNING Sadional 
Ww YP PRUNE 
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PRUNING 4 A STRONG BuO 
Prune shrubs severely after planting. Fol- 
low Shrub Planting Chart for later pruning. 
Planting Fall Bulbs 
Fall and early winter is the only time you 
| can plant tulips, crocus, daffodils, narcissus, 
" 
3 
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ie ~ Plants for Shady Locations 
and the like. They spend the fall and winter 
making roots and then come up early in the 
spring. 
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_ Set at the depth and distance apart shown 
in the diagram. You can either dig out a 
complete bed or simply a small hole for 
each bulb. Some people put a little sand in 
each hole which is nice as it allows drainage. 
Don’t allow air spaces about the bulb and 
be sure to PACK THE EARTH DOWN 
’ FIRMLY. If you wish, you may put a little 
fertilizer BELOW each bulb for the roots to 
_ feed on. Do not let the bulb touch it. 
It’s a good idea to mulch with lawn rak- 
“ings or straw or rotted manure. After bloom- 
ing next spring, allow the tops to die down 
naturally and then either dig and store, or 
leave for another season of bloom. 
3 
| SHRUBS—Japanese Barberry, Snowball, 
| Snowberry, Hydrangeas, Spirea V. H., 
- Honeysuckle. 
PERENNIALS—Lily of the Valley, Vio- 
lets, Bleeding Heart. all wild-flowers, 
Bluebells, and all the ferns. 
ANNUALS — Nasturtiums, Snapdragons, 
Lupine, Sweet Williams, Pansies. 
Tips on Planting 
(1) gaat before planting, stick the roots 
of the shrubs in a mixture of water and soil 
‘about as thick as grease. 
Pine *. * 
2 =: 
~ (2) When pruning always choose a place 
| just above a strong bud, NEVER BELOW. 
; * * * * > 
(3) Piant your shrubs in a curved line, 
and not in straight rows. Keep away from 
the foundation of the house or building, and 
use smaller shrubs in front of the taller ones. 
Pruning Tips to Remember 
SHADE TREES—If smaller around than 
your wrist, you can trim them any time. 
If larger, trim only in the winter when 
the sap is not flowing. im in early 
spring to prevent bad crotches, crossed 
limbs. 
FRUIT TREES—Prune early in spring, 
cutting out bad crotches and limbs 
that interfere with each other. Don’t 
| cut off short spurs from main limb as 
_| this bears first fruit. 
-|GRAPES — Prune in February before 
growth starts in the spring. Cut off all 
old wood which has borne fruit. 
HYBRID TEA ROSES—Prune long shoots 
off before winter covering. Prune bal- 
| ance of wood to 8 inches from the 
|} ground just before growth starts in the 
spring. 
SHRUBS — Prune early bloomers like 
- Bridal Wreath, Lilacs, etc., right after 
_ they bloom. Later bloomers like Hy- 
_ drangeas can be pruned in the spring. 
HEDGES—Prune several times each sea- 
jf 80n whenever it is necessary to keep 
be 
top marrower 
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ea 
Asparagus 
Set asparagus 15 in. apart in rows 3 ft. 
apart either spring or fall. A bed dug 18 in, 
deep with well rotted manure for the bot- 
tom six inches, and rich top soil for the next 
six inches is best. Set plants, spreading the 
roots well and with eye up. Cover with 3 
inches of soil and tramp well. Or simply 
plant in deep furrow. Fi 
Gradually cultivate soil into trench as 
plants grow so ground is level. Salt is not 
injurious to Asparagus, and may be sprin- 
kled to cover the ground to keep weeds down. 
Dress in fall with manure. Do not cut much 
the first year or two after planting. 
You may cut until about the 1st of June. 
As soon as tops turn yellow in the fall, cut 
close to the ground, then fertilize and mulch 
for winter. 
Blackberries 
Set in good sized 
hole about 2 inches 
deeper than they were 
in the nursery row. 
Spread roots well and 
pack firmky. Trim 
back to within few 
inches of the ground 
when planting. Set 4 
feet apart in rows 6 
feet apart for field 
cultivation, (1815 per 
A.) Closer for gar- 
dens, 
When new growth 
reach 24”, pinch off 
tip to encourage 
branching. Ne x t 
spring early, trim’ 
back to 10 in. Prune * 
right after picking 
the fruit. Remove all 
old canes that have borne fruit and burn. 
Leave 3 to 5 branches on new canes. A 
permanent mulch may be kept on berry beds 
to conserve moisture and keep down weeds. 
Bak out any sickly bush that appears and 
urn, 
- Blueberries 
Get a start of blueberries, can’t beat them. 
They’re easy to grow except they need acid 
soil. So with every blueberry order shipped, 
we send enough aluminum sulphate to acidify 
the soil around the plants and insure proper 
growing conditions. Dig your hole extra big, 
mix in 2 tablespoonsful of the Al. Sulphate 
and plant as usual. Maintain acidity by add- 
ing 1 tablespoonful of Al. Sulphate each 
spring, summer and fall to soil. That’s all 
that’s different than with other nursery stock. 
Plant 6 feet apart. They like lots of 
moisture and good drainage. Cultivate fre- 
quently only 2 inches deep as roots are 
shallow. Our peat moss helps hold moisture 
and keep soil acid. 
Additional quantities of Aluminum Sul- 
phate can be secured at Henry Field’s. 
Boysenberry and Youngberry 
After the soil has been thoroughly pre- 
pared, set the plants 3 ft. apart in rows 4 
ft. apart. Don’t crowd the roots. Pack the 
earth around solidly. After planting, mulch 
with a heavy application of well rotted barn- 
yard manure. Plants can be left to trail on 
the ground the first season. In the fall, after 
the growth has stopped, prune back about 
one-half of all new growth, and just before. 
the ground freezes, cover with several inches 
of straw. 
Once the vines commence to bud, they 
should be fastened to a trellis, similar to a 
grape trellis. Build a three-wire trellis with 
the top wire about 5 ft. from the ground 
and the bottom wire not lower than 2 ft. 
from the ground, Weave the vines fan shaped 
on these wires. Don’t cultivate much, just 
enough to remove the weeds. It is best to 
remove any very small canes that_are found, 
and shorten the longer ones at the time of 
putting the canes on the trellis wires in the 
spring. Old canes should be cut out and de- 
stroyed after the crop is harvested. 
Cannas 
Plant late in spring in rich bed. Cover 
with 2 inches of fine soil pressed firmly. Or 
dig a deep bed and place manure and fine top 
soil 6 in. deep below the bulbs. Water in 
dry weather. Cannas like sun. Plant 18 in. 
apart. After tops are killed by frost, dig 
and store in eave or cellar where dry and 
You can cover with dry sand or saw- 
dust. 
Do not divide the roots until towards 
planting time. Cut them in pieces with two 
or three eyes or buds to each piece. ; 
Currants and Gooseberries 
Plant in any rich moist soil, or even where 
there is part shade. This doesn’t seem to 
bother these plants. Cultivate to hold mois- 
ture and put them about 4 feet apart. Keep to 
edge of garden so they are not in way of 
plowing. 
Dahlias 
Plant in well-drained sunny location, after 
soil is warm. . Dig holes 6 in. deep 2 feet 
apart, and plant tuber on side with eye_up 
and cover with 3 in. dirt pressed firmly. Fill 
hole gradually as plant grows, 
When plant is above ground, remove all 
but one sprout and pinch that back when 
12 to 15 in. high to force lower growth. Dig 
in fall after first frost. Cut tops to roots 
and store upside down in cool dry cellar or 
cave. Divide in spring and be sure to get 
one eye with each division. 
Evergreens 
Evergreens are not particular about the 
soil, but they like lots’ of water when first 
planted. Water daily if necessary until they 
are well established. Give them fertilizer 
now and then, and give them a mulch over 
winter. It is not necessary to wrap or in any 
other way protect them, at this season. Do 
not prune except Junipers and Arborvitae 
which can be pruned to any shape desired. 
Gladiolus 
nt 5 to 6 in. deep and 4 to 8 in. apart, 
in ance location. Plant at intervals of two 
weeks for longer period of bloom. When 
tops die, dig bulbs, cut off tops and dirt and 
in cool, dry place. : 
eo tfadiolus can be planted early in the 
spring, and as late as the first of July. 
Grapes 
_ Dig hole big as though plant- 
ing an apple tree, and use the 
same method. Remove part of 
tops and roots as shown in pic- 
ture on ‘“‘Top pruning line,’’ and 
“Bottom Pruning Line.’ Leave 
two buds above surface. Set 6 
ft. in rows 8 ft. apart. First 
year only the main stem should 
be allowed te grow and one vine 
trained each way on 2 trellis 
wires about 24” and 36” above 
ground respectively. 
PRUNING GRAPES: Prune 
only in the winter when vines 
are dormant and weather not too 
cold. Keep in mifid that canes 
that have borne fruit one year 
will not bear again. So prune 
off all old canes (year old 
shoots) coming out from main 
WAZ TSS 
a, 
==, 
Mature grapes before and after pruning. 
stem EXCEPT 4 black canes (shoots that 
started to grow the spring before) two of 
which you train in opposite directions on 
each wire. These should be cut back to 3 
or 4 buds each (6 to 8 in. long). From these 
buds (found at the joints) come new shoots 
that bear leaves and grapes the following 
summer, 4 of these New Shoots will be used 
the NEXT WINTER as above, etc, 
Hedging 
Dig trench 10 in. 
wide. Set plants along 
straight side of 
trench as shown in 
Illustration J and a 
trifle lower than they 
were in nursery row. 
Tiim within_ five 
inches of ground im- 
mediately after plant- 
ing to give bushy 
growth. When new 
growth starts, nip off 
the end of each 
growth to stimulate 
branching. Set privet and other upright va- 
rieties 6 to 12 in. apart; Barberry and other 
bushy shrubs 1 foot apart; tall shrubs for 
high hedges 2 to 4 feet apart. 
HEDGE PRUNING—Hed¢ge pruning should 
be done several times each season—before 
growth starts in the spring, in May and in 
July. An evergreen hedge should be clipped 
in late May or early June after the new 
growth has started. If you have a weak, 
stragely hedge, cut it back to within a few 
inches of the ground, fertilize it well and it 
will grow out nicely for you. Always prune 
top narrower than bottom so bottom will get 
sun. 
Illustration ‘3’ Setting a Hedge 
Hydrangeas 
They thrive‘ best in a rich, moist soil, and 
flower freely either in a sunny or shady lo- 
eation. Severe pruning should be practiced, 
and the weak growth thinned to have good 
blooms. Blue Hydrangeas need some winter 
protection. 
Tris 
Plant shallow with rhizomes just barely 
covered with dirt. Spread roots like fingers, 
Be sure to place Iris where they will get at 
least a half day’s sun and good drainage. Do 
not let them be crowded by other plants. It 
is necessary to dig, separate and replant your 
Iris clumps every three to five years. Trans- 
plant in August or September. If planted 
early enough will bloom next spring. 
Lilacs 
Plant several inches deeper than they were 
planted in the nursery row. They like an 
early planting and a fairly sweet soil. Trim 
by eutting out old blooms. Don’t prune tops 
severely and prune only right after blooming. 
Try the new French Hybrids for all colors in 
Lilacs. 
Lilies 
Plant all Lilies on well drained soil. Do 
not use manure. Plant either fall or spring 
(except Madonna which is fall planted). If 
you plant in the fall, mulch lightly to pre- 
vent freezing and thawing. Good idea to put 
2 in. of sand below bulbs. Plant bulbs 
at depths specified for each variety in the 
catalog. ; 
The planting depth should be three times 
the diameter of the bulbs. Move lilies after 
they have been in one place for a few years 
as the bulbs become overcrowded. Plant 
where there is plenty of sunshine. 
Narcissus 
Narcissus, which are also called Daffodils 
and Jonquils, must be planted in the fall. 
Give them a fully sunny location, They like 
plenty of water. Give them a light mulch 
over the winter. Place the bulbs upright in 
oil. x 
After blooming, allow the tops to die down 
naturally and then either dig and store or 
leave for another season of bloom. 
Co., “MIDWEST’S LEADING SEEDHOUSE,” Shenandoah, lowa 
Peonies 
Plant in rich soil, theroughly spaded. It 
is extremely important that the pink eyes 
should be planted between 1% to 2 inches 
below the ground level. Never plant them 
deeper than this nor any shallower. This is 
the most important point in planting peonies, 
Plant either spring or fall. Peonies are 
heavy feeders and should be fertilized well. 
Spade in manure and bone meal or Sheepoki- 
zer way deep, below the roots. Water often, 
They are so easy to grow and so beautiful, 
plant lots of them. 
You may dig and divide your clumps of 
peonies in the fall, though they probably 
will not need it for several years. Be sure 
to get several eyes on each piece. Cut off 
any bad or rotted places. Peonies must be 
planted in full sun. 
Perennials 
Plant as soon as plants 
arrive, in good rich soil. 
Set so top of clump is just 
under surface of soil about 
1% in. If growth has 
started set crown (where 
roots join tops) at the sur- 
face. (See Illustration). 
Plant bushy growing plants 
farther apart than lower 
growing sorts. Mulch fall 
planted perennials with 
straw and leaves (never, 
leaves alone as they will Perennials Just 
choke the plants) to pre- Planted 
vent alternate freezing and 
thawing. See chart, bottom of page 26. 
GROOND Line—> 
Raspberries 
Same as blackberries. Cover roots about 
3 to 5 in. deep depending on size plants you 
order. Plant 3 ft. apart in rows 6 ft. apart. 
Rhubarb 
Plant 3 feet apart in good garden soil so 
crown is 1 to 2 in. below surface of soil. 
Plant either spring or fall, 
Give plenty of moisture. Clean cultivation 
and feed generously. No stalks should be 
pulled until the second year, and then only 
little. After that they may be pulled as long 
as you can use Asparagus. You may dig, 
divide and move in the fall or spring. 
Roses 
Plant in rich soil, 
well-drained, sunny lo- 
cation, with bud (where 
top joins brown root) 
2 in. below the surface. 
Plant as suggested in 
the general planting di- 
rections early in spring, 
above the plant 
left about 10 days un- 
til buds start when it 
should be removed. Set 
18 in, apart. Climbers 
6 ft. Most of our roses 
are pruned ready for 
planting, but if not, cut 
back to just above the 
mound of dirt you have Planted Rose 
piled up. (5-6 in.). : 
LATER CARE: Prune back severely in 
early spring to within 5 or 6 inches of the 
ground to force new growth. (Hybrid Per- 
petuals should be left 15 in. long. Climbers 
should have wood that bloomed cut out each 
summer.) Mulch well in winter with mound 
gna 
,ONINMYS 1008 
of dirt 1 ft. high and then a layer of leaves 
and straw. All roses need good cultivation. 
Plant 
suckers, 
vigorous 
with this in mind. Watch out for 
Dainty Hybrid Teas are grafted onte 
roots and these sometimes throw 
up canes of their 
«oe OWN. These have 
7 leaves instead 
of 5 and must 
be cut out. 
When setting 
out roses, cué 
the ends of all 
roots with 4 
very sharp 
knife... No roots 
should be left 
more than 12 
Plant roses with the joint, 
or bud, an inch above 
ground, then pile soil 10” 
high about canes to prevent 
drying. inches long. Re- 
: : move any _ in- 
jured portion and make sure the soil is 
pressed firmly around the roots leaving no 
air pockets. Dust your roses regularly every 
two weeks after the leaves first appear with 
Field’s Bug Dust. You will have neither bugs 
nor disease. Read about Rose Dust and Rose- 
tone on page 57. 
Strawberries 
Pulverize ground thoroughly. Set plant 
with crown just at the surface of the earth. 
DO NOT GET CROWN COVERED. (See 
illustration below.) Be sure roots are spread 
out fan shaped and hang down full length 
without crowding. Press soil firmly and re 
move dry or bruised leaves. Plant early as 
you can work the soil in spring. For field 
work set 24 in. apart in rows 3 ft. apart 
and in garden work about 24 in. apart each 
way. Mulch with 3 or 4 in. straw in fall. 
This mulch can be left on the following sea- 
son to retain moisture and keep down weeds. 
Strawberry plants will not cross fertilize, so 
you can plant the varieties you choose. if 
bed is too crowded, thin out old plants. Some 
people let runners fill the rows and dig the 
old rows every two years. 
Grub worms sometimes bother strawberries 
planted in sod or new soil so it is best to 
prepare the bed in the fall if you are plant- 
ing them in new soil, Everbearing varieties 
Too Deep _TooShallow Just Right 
will produce the first season—the others, not 
until the following year, 
27 
