26 QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. [1 Jan., 1898. 
of him, the result being he is broken down and useless just at the time when, 
had he been properly treated, he would have been of most value. 
The following winter the tree receives its third winter pruning, and its 
appearance after being pruned is shown by the accompanying illustration. — 
(See Fig. 5.) 
The extent to which the tree has to be cut back at this pruning will” 
depend on the strength of the tree and the kind of fruit. Generally speaking, 
the less the growth the more in proportion the cut back. 
Under favourable circumstances, we shall now have a tree from 6 to 7 feet 
high when pruned, more if the growth has been extra, the branches of which 
have a general upright tendency, which will enable them to carry much more 
fruit than if left to straggle all over the place, and, moreover, cultivation may 
be carried right up to the trees. From this stage onwards the trees will only 
require a yearly shortening in, with the cutting out of any limbs that interfere 
with others, also, of course, all dead or dying branches. When it is found 
that the tree is of a spreading habit naturally, always, in pruning, cut to an 
inner bud, which will tend to confine it; and, if the tree is inclined to grow 
too upright, as is the case with some plums, pears, and apples, always cut to — 
an outer bud; and, if it is desirable to continue the limb in a given direction, 
cut to an inner bud one year and an outer bud the next. 
These general rules apply, with certain modifications, to all deciduous fruit 
trees—-the especial class of pruning adapted to different fruits being treated ~ 
further on. With regard to the pruning of existing orchards, the following © 
advice may be of value :—In the first place, all branches, crossing or in any way 
interfering with any other branch, should be removed; and if the cut is a 
large one, it should be made with the saw, and the edges of the cut carefully 
trimmed with a knife, and the whole covered with grafting-wax, or a dressing 
of shellac dissolved in alcohol to the consistency of paint, and applied with a 
brush. This entirely prevents the wound souring, and, when the edges of the 
cut have been well trimmed, a new growth of bark will soon cover the cut. All | 
dead, broken, or dying branches should be removed, and also all branches growing — 
from the under side of the limbs which tend to trail on the ground, or, at any — 
rate, open up the top of the tree, letting the sun directly on the branches, thus 
scalding them, and causing much dead wood. ‘he trees should also be gone | 
over carefully, and thinned out or shortened in where necessary; but, at the 
best, if the tree has been improperly started, it is a hard job trying to pull it 
into anything like a decent shape. 
Above all, do not leave too much wood in the tree, but thin the head out 
well and evenly, so as to allow the air free access, and also so that spraying may 
be easily and thoroughly done, as this is impossible where the branches forming — 
the head of the tree are crowded, and such trees cannot be kept free from 
insect and fungus pests. ‘The head of the tree must not, however, be thinned 
out too much, as it is necessary that it be sufficiently shaded to prevent the 
sun from striking directly on the branches in the centre of the tree, which 
would thus be scalded and seriously injured, if not killed. 
The tools required for prun- 
ing are a good pruning-knife, as 
shown in the accompanying 
illustration (see Fig. 6), a pair 
of 8 or 9 inch secateurs, and a Fic. 6.—Pruning Knife. 
good pruning-saw. 
When selecting a pruning-knife, choose one to fit your hand and preferably 
with a curved blade and handle, as with such you have more power and can 
make a clean drawing cut if the knife isin good order. When using a pruning- 
knife see that it is kept sharp, and always sever the branch witha drawing cut, 
as this ensures a clean cut and does not bruise the wood or bark, so that the 
wound will soon heal over. The best pruning-knives that I have used are those. 
made by Saynor, and they can be obtained from most seedsmen and hardware 
merchants. 
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