190 : QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. [1 Maz., 1898. 
the line A in Fig. 8. This cut should always be 
carefully and cleanly made, as if so the wound 
heals more readily, and the union of the stock 
and bud is practically a perfect one, whereas if 
the cut is carelessly made it is always a weak 
spot in the tree, and the tree is apt to break off 
at the bud during a heavy storm. Citrus buds 
should be staked, if well-grown, symmetrical 
young trees are desired; but unless subject to 
heavy winds, or if the nursery is in an exposed 
position, it is not necessary to stake stone or pip 
fruits if they are first well trained to the old stocks. 
Besides stone and citrus fruits, most varieties 4 
of fruits can be propagated by budding, the process —~ 
being very similar in every respect to that already 
described, with the exception that the buds are 
rather differently cut. 
Apple and pear buds are usually cut rather 
longer and fuller than peach buds, but the opera- 
tion is an easy one. 
In figs, walnuts, chestnuts, and other soft- 
wooded trees, budding is much more difficult, as, \ ea: 
though the method is practically the same, the ..--’ 
buds require to be cut much larger, and should * 
have the greater part of their wood removed. 
The work requires considerable skill, and the ties 
should be well and firmly put on. The whole 
operation requires to be done neatly and rapidly, 
especially in the case of trees having a milky sap, Fig. 8. 
as, if exposed to the air for any length of time, the sap sours, and the union 
will not take place. [have found waxed ties very good for such fruits, as they 
keep the wound practically airtight, and therefore prevent it from souring. 
In addition to T-budding, there are several other methods of budding, 
such as ring-budding, whistle-budding, and twig-budding, each of value for 
particular varieties of fruits; but these are more methods for the expert 
nurseryman or propagator than for the average fruitgrower, for whom a 
thorough knowledge of T-budding is all that is necessary. 
THE MEXICAN STRAWBERRY. 
“A perry of surpassing merit, wondrous beauty, and luxuriant plant growth,” 
says a writer to the California Fruitgrower. ‘This berry is as near perfection 
as has yet been attained in a strawberry. It is a rapid and beautiful grower, 
‘with clean healthy foliage of a dark-green colour. ‘The young plants of this 
variety need no petting, but take hold and grow rapidly. Generally these 
young plants perfect a heavy crop the first season. A strange peculiarity of 
the Mexican Strawberry is, that it will yield fruit for five or six years without 
_renewing, as against three or four crops with other varieties. It gives heavy 
crops all through the season in warm climates, and in cold climates it yields 
two crops a season. The berries are larger than those of any other variety 
cultivated at the present day. I have all the new and old varieties, embracing 
about 300 different kinds, and I have a good chance to determine their value. 
The Marshall, Monarch of the West, Sharpless, Enormous, Australian Crimson, 
La France, Glen Mary, Brandywine, Rival Hudson, Enhance, &c., are among 
the largest berries; but the Mexican is better than any of these, because it will 
average two quarts of fruit to the plant, and in exceptional cases three and 
even four quarts. The plant itself is almost faultless, attaining a height of about 
16 inches, with dense, spreading, dark-green leaves, which greatly protect the 
blossoms from frost. Last year the cold weather destroyed nine-tenths of the 
flowers on other plants, but the Mexican pulled through in splendid shape, and 
