AT 
THIS 
POINT 
Maybe you are a bit weary with one kind or class of reading. So let’s 
take a ‘Station Break” for something different and yet another kind of 
information all GARDENERS can well use to advantage. 
However DON’T STOP HERE because the few remaining pages 
and another ten minutes can make you the model and “cum laude” 
grower of your neighborhood. 
Certainly you will want further FACTS about GRASS SEED. More 
millions of dollars have been wasted on inferior Lawn Grass Seed 
than will ever be known. Year after year the “LAWN SEED FOLLIES” 
plays to a capacity audience. 
AND OH! THESE METAL NECESSITIES are just “What the gardener 
in the field) that we annually buy hundreds of tons of steel and it is 
the only division of our business that requires double shifts on “out of 
season” garden merchandise. 
Naturally we work double me on Plant Foods, Insecticides, etc., dur- 
ing the season (Nov. to July) but we hardly keep abreast on METALS 
during the whole year and this year our production of the new GOU- 
LARD’S Rose and Vine TRELLIS will really crowd us. Read about it 
on page 24. A brand new product and yet one single order for 1000 
while in the blueprint stage. 
The answer—Enameled sturdy steel outlasts weod 10 to 1 everytime 
and almost in any direction of use. 
ordered.” We make so many (and probably the only such manufacturers 
PLANTING INSTRUCTIONS 
All trees and plants should be set in holes sufficiently large to accommodate the roots without decided bending. 
The plants should be set in good rich soil and the earth must be firmed well about the roots as the plant is 
being set. 
For best results all plants should be trimmed back severely at planting time. All broken parts of roots and 
branches should be removed with a sharp knife or shears. 
ROSES 
All classes of Roses should be pruned severely at time of planting. For best results plant in full sunlight. 
Everblooming and Hybrid Perpetual Roses—Plant 2 to 3 feet apart each way, placing them a little deeper 
than they stood in the Nursery Row, as indicated by soil marks on the bark. Trim back to about 8 inches of the 
ground at planting time. 
Climbing Roses should be trimmed back to within about 15 or 18 inches of the ground, and planted about 6 
or 8 feet apart. HARDY PERENNIALS 
Most varieties do best when planted in the full sunlight, excepting Li/y of the Valley, which does best in 
partial shade. Hollyhocks, Hibiscus and Peonies should be planted 2 feet apart, while Iris, Lily of the Valley, 
Phlox and most other varieties should be set about 18 inches apart. 
HARDY VINES 
Trim all varieties of Vines back to within six inches of the ground at planting time, excepting Wisterias, which 
need not be trimmed so severely. SHRUBS 
At planting time trim Buddleyas and Hydrangeas down to within about 12 inches of the ground; other varieties 
should not be trimmed so severely, about one-third their length is all that is necessary. After the Shrubs have 
bloomed each season, they should be trimmed severely. 
HEDGE PLANTS 
PRIVET—Plant 6 to 8 inches apart in a single row, setting the plants good and deep. Trim back immediately 
after planting to within 6 inches of the ground. 
BARBERRY—Set the plants 12 to 15 inches apart in a single row. Trim but slightly. 
FRUIT TREES 
Trim back about 6 inches of the limb growth. As the earth is being placed about the roots, tramp same firmly 
with the feet, so that there will be no possible chance of air being left about the roots. Leave about 2 inches of 
loose soil on the surface. APPLE and CHERRY trees should be planted about 25 feet apart. PEACH and PLUM 
trees 18 feet apart. PEAR trees about 20 feet apart. 
SMALL FRUITS 
GRAPES—Set about 8 feet apart, and trim back to within two or three eyes of the ground at planting time. 
For best results all lateral growth should be trimmed each winter (during February) to within two buds of the 
main cane, this pruning being done when there is no frost in the vines. 
RASPBERRIES and BLACKBERRIES—Trim back to within 6 or 8 inches of the ground at planting time. 
Plant in rows about 3 feet apart, with the rows 5 to 6 feet apart. Summer pruning should be practiced, all ter- 
minal growths being pinched back after they have attained a height of 3 feet. This treatment will cause the plant 
to emit lateral growths, on which the following years fruit will be produced. 
CURRANTS and GOOSEBERRIES—Plant in rows 4 feet apart, with the plants 3 feet apart in the rows. 
Trim back severely at planting time. This class of stock gives best results when planted in partial shade, and is 
‘greatly benefited by a winter mulch. j 
STRAW BERRIES—For the family garden we recommend hill culture; plant in rows 2 feet apart with the 
plants about a foot apart in the row, removing all runners as they appear. If to be grown in matted rows, plant 
in rows 3 feet apart with the plants one foot apart in the rows. For field culture, plant in rows three and a half feet 
apart, with the plants one foot apart in the tow. 
RHUBARB—Set in rows 4 feet apart, with the roots 3 feet apart in the row. 
ASPARAGUS—In garden planting, the roots should be set from 1 to 2 feet apart in rows 3 feet apart. Plant 
in furrows 6 or 8 inches deep, but at planting time cover with only about 3 inches of soil, filling in the trench 
as the plants increase in height. 
PRUNING 
Just a word about Pruning which we must consider as a team- 
mate of spraying. Obviously we cannot here cover the detailed 
points of Pruning. We can say, however, a helpful word. 
Careful pruning in the Winter or very early Spring will make 
Spraying more effective, as the eggs or coccoons of many insects 
can be destroyed, such as the fruit Moths that are responsible 
for eggs and worms in Summer. By cutting out dead limbs and 
opening up the centers of trees, bushes and shrubbery, light and 
air get in and make it difficult for fungi and insects to develop. 
In pruning a fruit tree, make two cuts. The first underneath 
the limb 8 inches to 12 inches out from the tree, cutting in until 
the saw binds to prevent the bark stripping when the limb falls. 
The second cut to remove the limb is on top and is made as 
close to the trunk or limb as possible. If big limbs are being cut 
off leave a foot or more of stump on the first cutting as other- 
wise the falling limb might strip off unnecessary bark. 
Limbs should finally be cut off close to trunk or limbs from 
which they branch so the bark can close over the cut and prevent 
decay which keeps eating back into the heart of the tree. A thick 
coat of a good tree or house roof paint over the wound is good 
at this point. 
If two branches cross each other so as to wear or scrape get 
rid of the least important branch. 
Remember that low headed trees with open centers require 
less spray material. 
Girdled trees can be saved if bridge-grafting is done quickly. 
Keep the general outline of a tree or ornamental in mind 
when pruning for symmetry. 
Fill holes in trees where limbs have rotted with cement after 
removing all the decayed wood and disinfecting the holes. Trees 
live much longer with this treatment. 
While the above concerns general major tree operations with 
a saw or the larger pruning tools, the same suggestions apply 
with a pair of pruning shears. Always cut just above a bud or 
a fresh shoot. 
WE LIKE OUR PATRONS ENOUGH TO TRY TO DO THE UNUSUAL 19 
