White Varieties 
SOUTHPORT WHITE GLOBE—Best of the 
whites, Medium-sized, round, solid white 
bulbs, fine thin skin. Waxy white flesh, 
mild and fine grained. Keeps well in fall, 
110 to 112 days. 
WHITE BUNCHING—A good Spring appe- 
tizer, Crisp and mild. Fine for cooking 
when grown larger, 60 days. 
WHITE PORTUGAL OR SILVERSKIN—FExcel- 
lent flat variety. Dependable cropper, ex- 
cellent for sets, for green bunching, or as 
a pickler. 100 to 102 days. 
Red Varieties 
SOUTHPORT RED GLOBE—Finest of all red 
onions. Perfectly round, good sized bulbs 
with thick, small necks. Skin is deep pur- 
plish-red. Strong flavored flesh, white tinged 
with pink. Good keeper, productive, 112- 
114 days to maturity. 
ONION PLANTS 
Sturdy, hardy plants that come to you all 
Teady to set out, Ask for prices. 
ONION SETS 
Onion sets used instead of seeds will 
produce earlier crops of green onions or 
large bulbs. Plant seeds right side up and 
cover with garden rake; then firm the 
soil well over the sets. 
RED, WHITE, YELLOW 
PARSLEY 
Does best in rich, mellow loam, Seed 
is slow to germinate, and is helped by 
soaking in warm water overnight before 
planting. Sow early and not too deeply. 
Space plants 6” apart. When curled 
varieties are about 3” tall, cut off leaves. 
The new growth will be brighter and 
curlier. 
MOSS CURLED OR TRIPLE CURLED—Com- 
pact, dark green leaves, curled and fine- 
cut, 70 days. 
PARSNIP 
Needs rich, mellow soil for best growth. 
Must be planted as early as ground can 
be worked. Soil must be loose to a 
depth of 12” and cannot be heavy. 
Rows should be 15” to 18” apart. 
Cover seed WY” and press down soil. 
Thin out to 4” when plants have 
made a good start. Cold weather turns 
starches into sugar and improves flavor. 
Roots are hardy: leave in ground over 
winter if desired. 
HOLLOW CROWN (fr)—The most general- 
ly grown kind. Roots 2¥ to 3-in. thick at 
shoulder. 12 to 14-in. long, uniformly tap- 
ered, hollow crowned. Edible in 95 days. 
PEAS 
Early peas need a light, warm soil; but 
general crop thrives best in moderately 
heavy soil. (Avoid fresh manure and very 
rich or wet, mucky soil as this produces 
large growth of vine at the cost of qual- 
ity of the peas.) Plant seed in rows at 
2” depth. Keep rows 21” to 28” apart 
for dwarf varieties and 28” to 42” for 
the taller types. Gather crop as fast as 
it is fit to use or new pods will cease 
to form and those partly advanced will 
cease growth. 
Plant variety Alaska as soon as ground 
can be dug. Plant wrinkled varieties 
(which have better flavor) when nar- 
cissus buds show color or when crocuses 
are in bloom, Peas are not satisfactory 
when weather turns hot. Tall varieties 
must be staked. Most home gardeners 
prefer dwarf varieties like Little Marvel. 
Peas want well-limed soil, Don’t forget, 
inoculation improves production. 
Early and Second Variety 
ALASKA—Wilt resistant. Used for canning 
and early home garden. Blunt, straight 
light-green, 3-in. pods, Plants 32-in. 69 
days 
FREEZONIAN (fr)—Luscious, melting peas 
that retain their garden fresh sweet flavor 
after freezing. 3/2 inch pods packed with 8 
or 9 medium sized peas. 63 days. 
LAXTON’S PROGRESS (fr)—Medium dark 
green vine, 16 to 18-in. Single pods almost 
an inch wide and 41, to 5-in. long, with 7 
to 9 large peas, 62 days. 
LITTLE MARVEL (fr)—Outstanding, dwarf. 
Fine quality, large yield. Single and double, 
dark green, 3-in. pods—blunt, plump, well 
filled with 7 to 8 medium sized, light green 
tender peas. Edible in 62 days, 
THOMAS LAXTON (fr) — Medium height. 
Strong vine bears numerous dark green, 
blunt ended pods, 4 to 414-in. Retains flavor 
and sweetness, One of earliest. 57 days, 
Later Varieties 
ALDERMAN OR DARK-PODDED TELEPHONE 
(fr)—Large podded variety of the Telephone 
family, Excellent for home gardens, truck- 
ers, shipping to distant markets and for 
freezing; resistant to Fusarium wilt, Vine 
dark green, coarse. Pods single, very broad, 
plump, straight, dark green, pointed; con- 
tains 8 to 10 peas of highest quality. Seed 
large, wrinkled, light green. 74 days. 
HUNDREDFOLD OR LAXTONIAN—Excep- 
tionally choice and prolific. Dark green. 
Rather coarse vines, Straight pointed, well- 
filled 2Y¥2” pods. 62 days. 
‘ 
Edible Podded or Sugar 
MAMMOTH MELTING SUGAR—Wilt resis- 
tant. Coarse light-green vine, 54-in, Single 
4Y-in. pods, broad, indented light, blunt, 
stringless, without fiber, fleshy. Contains 7 
ele Seed large, round, creamy-white, 74 
ays. 
PEPPERS 
Need long growing season: start in- 
doors 8 weeks before plants are wanted. 
Set plants 15” x 24” and feed liberally 
for bigger fruits. 
Warm, mellow soil in sheltered location 
is best. Cultivate regularly, drawing 
soil up around stems. When plants are 
7” to 8” tall, hoe in light dressing of 
commercial fertilizer. Do not plant hot 
peppers near sweet; they are apt to 
cross, 
Sweet 
CALIFORNIA WONDER IMPROVED—Num- 
ber one quality peppers, about 4-in. long 
and 3lf-in. diameter, very smooth, 3 and 
4 lobed, glossy green, turning bright crim- 
son when ripe, Remarkable thick walls, 
tender, sweet. 75 days to maturity, 
PIMENTO OR PERFECTION—Best of the 
medium sized sweet peppers, Excellent for 
stuffing. Smooth, heart-shaped, about 3-in, 
long, 125 days. 
RUBY KING—Bred for size and uniformity. 
Dark green turning to bright deep red fruit. 
Thick flesh sweet and mild. 60 days, 
WORLD BEATER—One of the best large pep- 
pers. Glossy-green, changes to bright red. 
Mild, very sweet, thick flesh. 75 days. 
Hot 
HUNGARIAN WAX—Slender, waxy yellow 
fruit about 6-in. long turns red when ripe. 
Very hot, 65 days. 
LONG RED CAYENNE—The hot favorite. 
For canning, pickling, drying. Pungent 
flavored fruit, tapering and twisted, Ma- 
tures in 70 days. 
Che DO's & DON'TS of Comatoes 
The best time to set tomatoes out is a week or so after the average date of the last killing frost. However, 
if Hotkaps or similar protection is provided for the tender plants they may be set out a little earlier. Do not 
set plants during cold, wet weather because the growth may be checked. Do set plants deeply in the ground. 
Don't plant too close together. A half dozen good plants properly spaced will produce as much as twenty 
that are too close together, Put one plant to every square yard for proper spacing. 
Do use proper fertilizer to produce maximum yields of tomatoes. Those high in phosphorous and potash 
are best. Use only moderate amounts of nitrogen, it causes excessive growth of vines and few fruits. 
Don't plant tomatoes on poorly drained soil, They need a moderate amount of moisture, but too much de- 
velops growth at the expense of the fruit. When the soil is very wet, the fruits lose their flavor because 
they absorb a great deal of the moisture. 
Tomatoes unstaked produce more fruit, but require more space as the plants are weak and sprawling. 
Allow 4 feet apart each way unstaked. When tomatoes are allowed to run on the ground, mulching is a good 
practice. A 2 or 3 inch layer of hay, straw, old leaves, lawn rakings, or anything of the sort retains the mois- 
ture in the soil, smothers weeds and keeps the fruit clean. One method used to keep the tomatoes off the 
ground is a low wood trellis shown below. Another is use of a barrel hoop, supported about 18 inches 
above the ground by stakes (3 to each hoop). 
However, staked tomato plants are probably best for the home gardeners as space is saved. Tie each plant to 
a 6 foot stake and pinch off superfluous leaves. Set plants 2¥2 feet apart each way. 
BIC OC ee 
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