Seciety. The interests of the Society have recently been enlarged to include other bulbs 
and plants and the name changed but with no lessening in interest in Amaryllids. 
The annual book, ‘“Herbertia,” is devoted to Amaryllids. It consists of about 250 
pages, beautifully illustrated, on fine book paper, and is edited by Dr. Hamilton P. Traub 
of the U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, (now retired) the greatest living authority-on the 
Amaryllidaceae. Each member receives a copy. 
The members also receive the occasional publication, “Plant Life,’ on other bulbs 
and plants. Due to present shortage of paper and its high price these publications at 
present are included in one volume per year. 
Those who grow Amaryllis as an interesting and intellectual hobby and who love 
their vivid beauty, are invited to become members of the society. The annual dues are 
$3.00 per year, which you may send to Miss Pauline Buck, Sec. 25 E. Camino Real, 
Arcadia, Calif., or you may include this membership fee with your bulb order to us. 
The Society also publishes the following book, bound in manila paper. 
Amaryllidaceae: Tribe Amarylleae, by Traub and Moldenka. 18 illustrations, 194 
pages, $4.00. This is a systematic treatment of one of the main tribes of Amaryllids, in 
scientific language. The most important work on the taxonomy of Amarylleae since the 
oe of Baker’s “The Amaryllideae,’ in 1888. Order from the Sec. Miss Buck, 
please. 
Amaryllid nomenclature. Carl Linnaeus, father of modern botany, made the first, 
rather complete scientific arrangement of plants according to relationships in the 18th 
century. His information about many plants was wholly inadequate to achieve perfection. 
Even in my later first French edition, 1798, nearly all American epiphytic orchids were 
placed in one genus, Epidendrums, and under the genus Amaryllis he included certain 
Crinums, Zephyranthes, Sprekelias, Brunsvigias, Nerines, etc. Botany is a progressive 
science and later explorations and discoveries have made possible many improvements in 
plant classifications and have required changes in nomenclature. Horticulturists are often 
loath to accept the new classifications and names. But we must do so even if inconvenient 
at first. It is not logical to continue an error. 
In our catalogs, we accept changes in classification and names as made by recent 
writers in Herbertia. These have been approved by “Gentes Herbarum,” the publication 
of the Bailey Hortorium of Cornell University. To help you avoid ordering a bulb you 
already have we give both old and new names, thus: Brunsvigia rosea (Amaryllis bella- 
donna); Amaryllis advena (Hippeastrum advenum). 
Agapanthus, Blue Lily of the Nile. Best time to plant is early spring, tho early fall 
will do very well. They flower here in June to Aug. In the north they must be grown 
in large pots or tubs and wintered in a frost free room. Plant in full sun exposure in 
any good garden soil. 
Agapanthus longispathus. Similar to well known A. orientalis, but smaller and later 
to flower. Profuse bloomer. Advised for pot growing. 50c, 3 for $1.25. 
A. orientalis. Dark Blue. More robust than longispathus. Superior clone, $1.00. 
A. orientalis, Sky Blue. 75c. 
A. orientalis alba. Pure white. $2.00. 
A. von Weillighi hybrids. Selected clone. A giant type, very large, round umbel of 
blue flowers on a tall stem. $2.50. 
Alstroemeria (pronounced-stre, not stro). The Peruvian Lily. Many showy flowers in 
an umbel on long, slender, stiff stems. The pastel tones are rich and varied, long lasting 
and popular as cut flowers. Spring blooming. 
Culture. They must have good underdrainage and therefore if possible, sandy soil. 
In heavy soil, their cultivation is made possible by the plentiful addition of sand and 
leaf mould. 60% to 75% sun exposure. Natives of Semi-tropical America, they have been 
grown as far north as New Jersey in the garden. This has been possible by planting large 
tubers about 5” or 6” deep and giving a heavy mulch. There is some danger of freezing 
and consequent loss in the north the first two winters. By that time they have usually 
deepened themselves below the depth of frost penetration. We cannot guarantee against 
loss by freezing, but we offer large tubers that will help. 
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