1 Jury, 1899.] QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. 47 
out, leaving only a few proportionately to the strength of the plant, and then 
the shoots left should be shortened back; the weaker the plant, the lower it 
may be pruned. In this, and in all pruning, cut to an outside bud. You have 
seen scores of persons, when pruning, measure with the eye the height at which 
they propose to make a cut, and then take off the shoot, quite oblivious of the 
fact that the top bud, which will, of course, be the most vigorous, will grow 
right into the middle of the bush, spoiling its shape, cutting off the supply of 
light and air, and preventing the flowers and fruit from attaining their highest 
development. If you look at any shoot as it grows on a tree, you will see that 
the buds point in different directions—some outwards, some inwards, and some 
sideways. Now, it will be very clear to you that, if you cut back that shoot to 
a bud which points inwards, that bud, when it begins to grow, will grow inwards 
—to the damage of the tree. So always take care to cut back to an outside 
bud. 
Roses are propagated in several ways, any one of which would require a paper 
to itself. Cuttings are put in for two purposes—to produce a rose of the same 
variety as it has been cut from, and to produce a stock upon which another rose 
is to be budded. 
For cuttings of the former type, get firm pieces of the wood of the present 
year—that is to say, wood formed last summer. Make your cuttings 6 or 8 
inches long ; insert them in a free, sandy compost to a depth of about three- 
fourths of their entire length. In the growing season you can strike cuttings 
of young wood of the Teas and Noisettes if you take off a “heel” of the old 
wood with the cutting, and put the latter in sandy soil, covering with a bell- 
glass, or some such contrivance, until the leaves, which must be left on, recover, 
when the cutting will soon emit roots. 
Apiculture, 
By W. TOFT, Oakwood Apiary, 
I nortu with pleasure the nine pages devoted to Apiculture in the May 
issue of the Guesrcisin Agricultural Journal, and venture a few remarks, 
hoping that other beemen will take the matter up and do likewise ; and thereby 
push Queensland beekeeping ahead. 
Weight of Honey per Hive.—The average of 94 Ib. per hive seems to me 
rather low, but when all. things are considered—yir,, beginners, queen-rearing, 
wax production, &¢.—the average is fair; but by careful manipulation and 
working with your bees, from 200 to 800 lb. per hive can be obtained in good 
seasons. 
Swarming.—When I find a hive showing symptoms of swarming fever, I 
take all their brood away, and fill up the hive with empty combs or frames filled 
with foundation, giving the brood to any weak hive that may require a little 
help. , 
This is the best medicine I can find for the swarming fever, and if taken in 
time it is very effective. : 
Bees not Taking to Supers.—If I find a stock slow in taking to supers, I at 
first make sure that the top and bottom bars of each super are properly spaced. 
Ithen take three or four frames of brood, of all ages, place it in supers, and fill up 
with empty combs; and usually all goes well. 
Two (Queens in Hive.—About 9 years ago I had experience of two queens 
in one hive, both laying and working well together, but one was an old queen. 
Before number 2 queen arrived, I looked through the hive at least once a 
