368 QUEENSLAND AGRICULTURAL JOURNAL. [1 Ocr., 1899. 
The Orchard. 
OLIVE CULTIVATION. 
‘Ix olive is found widely distributed in all the temperate parts of the clobe. It 
will not produce fruit, or at least will not mature it in exceedingly hot or exceed- 
ingly cold localities—a temperature of 10 degrees Fahr. will destroy the trees, 
especially if wet weather should ensue. But, although the stem may be killed 
by heavy frost, the roots remain intact, and a fresh stem may be raised from the 
living roots. In the Southern States of America the cultivation of the olive has 
greatly extended, and a crop of oil has been obtained from trees four years 
after their haying been planted out, and a full crop in eight years. The tree 
thrives best near the sea-coast, but will fruit well inland. As the olive does not 
demand arich soil, it can be profitably grown on lands which are useless for 
other purposes. This is one great advantage it possesses over other trees. 
Another is that it does not require so much attention as, say, citrus and apple 
trees. It will stand years of neglect, and then spring into vigorous bearing if 
the soil be stirred about its roots. <A third great advantage is that once planted 
the tree is a permanency. It is practically indestructible, and lives and bears to 
an ineredable age. The returns are certain and regularly increasing. 
Absolute poverty of soil is not a desirable qualification for the olive, but a 
poor, well-drained, dry soil is suitable. Clay soils are to be avoided. In planting 
an olive grove itis well in Queensland to choose a site open to the morning sun— 
that means an easterly aspect. Thus the trees are sheltered from the rough 
westerly winds. 
There are several ways of obtaining olive plants. One is by cuttings. 
These may be made either from the branches or roots. Each cutting of the 
former should be from 10 to 14 inches long, and should be planted at such a 
depth that only one bud remains above the surface. Root cuttings are best 
planted entirely under ground. The tree will also grow from layers. 
_ Another method is to plant suckers rising from the roots. These should 
be taken off with a good “heel,” and they form a stem to start with. 
Olive-trees may also be raised from seed, but this must not be without 
preparation. The seed has an oily covering or pericarp, which will prevent the 
necessary moisture reaching it. ‘To overcome this, it must be steeped for a day 
in. hot water, or it can be plunged into some alkaline substance which will 
combine with the oil and conyert it into a soapy substance which is soluble in 
the earth. 
Very stout cuttings, called “ truncheons,” may be planted. These may be 
from 1 foot to 10 feet in length, and from 2 inches to 6 inches in thickness. 
The longer truncheon may be planted to a depth of 4 feet. 
Mr. Lewis A. Bernays, who wrote in 1883 an exhaustive article on the 
“ Cultivation of the Olive in Queensland,” says :— 
The process of planting is as follows:—In early spring open the holes 
to such a depth as the nature of the soil admits. Next, plant the truncheon or 
pole upright, taking care to throw in a good layer of chopped turyes and leaves, 
decayed stable manure, or any fertilising matter which has thoroughly ripened 
and is not hot, and filling in firmly with the soil which was taken out of the 
hole. Leave the ground round each plant slightly hollowed to facilitate 
watering, which, unless the ground is in a moist state, should be done at once, 
and repeated from time to time when the weather is dry. The object of 
enriching the bottom of the hole is twofold. 1t stimulates the truncheon to 
send out roots from the bottom end, and so ensures a well and deep rooted tree, 
whilst it also assists mechanically in retaining moisture where it 1s most needed. 
Tn transplanting rooted trees from the nursery, or to relieve too quickly 
planted rows, the same precautions should be adopted. 
