HOW TO PLANT A TULIP BULB 
Planting can be done any time between late September and mid- 
November. Loosen the soil a full spade’s depth and pulverize it. Add 
compost or leafmold if soil is stiff; also add some Bone Meal; then 
relevel the bed. 
For a good-looking clump, space the bulbs in an oval or figure 
eight allowing five inches between bulbs. Put a stake in the center of 
clump as a reminder. Lift the first bulb and stab your hand trowel 
its full depth, 6 to 8 inches, stratght down into the soft soil directly 
below where the bulb lay. Pull the trowel blade toward you to widen 
opening. With your other hand, insert a tulip bulb with pointed end 
up. Press its base firmly against bottom of the hole. Pull up and out 
on your trowel and let the soil fall back to fill. Press the soil over each 
bulb as planted. 
‘Top feed with Sacco Plant Food in the spring when bulbs are 2 to 
3 ee above ground. This will insure a stronger stem and truer 
color. 
CULTURAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR LILIES 
Soils and Location: Lilies must have perfect drainage such as a 
gentle slope can provide. Air drainage too is important, for a good 
breeze can keep many garden pests and diseases away. If your site 
is level and the soil heavy, then prepare raised beds for the bulbs. 
Take care not to damage the roots in planting. 
Sun and Shade: Lilies need sunlight, at least until 2 P.M. Filtered 
sunlight or semi-shade may bring out the more delicate colors, but 
they tend to make weak stems and soft flowers. Do not plant near 
house walls, walks or drives that reflect sunlight or heat. 
Depth of Planting: Lilium candidum should be planted with not 
more than one inch of settled soil over the top of the bulbs. All 
others need not more than four inches of soil over them. 
Mulch and Groundcover: Lilies are gross feeders and root deeply. 
They need a porous, well-aerated soil, rich in humus and well- 
balanced plant food. They like a good mulch of well-rotted cow 
manure, rich compost or decaying leafmold, and this can be applied 
several times during the growing season. The mulch keeps the soil 
cool, discourages weak growth and eliminates the need for surface 
cultivation which might hurt the stem roots. Shallow-rooted ground 
cover keeps the ground shaded and ts beneficial. Do not expect your 
lilies to compete with strong-growing perennials or shrubs. 
Pot Culture: The soil mixture must be loose and porous. Two 
parts sandy loam, one of leafmold, and one of sand ts good. An inch 
of gravel should be placed in the bottom for drainage. Fill the pot 
half full of soil mix, and a handful of sand, set the bulb on the sand, 
then surround with more sand. The pot is then filled with soil mix, 
watered, labeled, staked and placed in a cool place until spring. Con- 
trol aphids and fungous diseases with a good spray. 
CALLA LILIES 
The Callas are good subjects to grow because they require so 
little attention. The flowers last a long time when the plants are 
grown slowly, and the plant continues to provide attractive and 
useful foliage after the flowers are gone. 
The rhizomes may be potted up any time from August through 
December. Smaller ones can go into ftve or six-inch pots. The 
larger ones will need sevens or eights. They are not fussy as to soil, 
and your regular compost should prove excellent. 
Callas will grow in any temperature from 50 to 70 degrees, but the 
flowers will have more substance and last longer when grown at 50 
to 55 degrees. The rhizomes should be watered sparingly until growth 
starts. Then, they can take more water, and will be benefited by one 
or two feedings of ammonium sulphate solution. Flowers come in 
about two weeks. 
CROCUS 
Pot crocuses in September and set them in the coldframe for at 
least six weeks. About eight to ten corms may be planted in a frve- 
inch pot. Grow them in a 45 to 55 degree house. Select corms raised 
especially for forcing. They come in many shades of blue, red, lilac, 
purple, and in white. 
FREESIA 
You miss something really worth while 1f you don’t grow a few 
pots of Freesias. The foliage is scraggly and unattractive, but the 
blooms are fragrant and lovely. You can have them for cutting by 
Christmas if you plant corms in August and grow them at 55 to 60 
degrees. Plant them in shallow bulb pans or four-inch-deep flats. 
Use a light soil consisting of four parts rotted sod and manure loam, 
and one of peat or leafmold. Fill the pans or flats and press the corms 
into the soil. They are cornucopia-shaped and the point is the top. 
Water well and place under the greenhouse bench or in a pit or cold- 
frame protected from frost. Do not water again until growth starts. 
You can grow them at any temperature from 48 to 60 degrees. 
Flowers can be had from late December into March. 
Supports are needed, and a circular frame made of quarter or half- 
inch mesh wire around the inside rim of the pot, or of bamboo stakes 
and string Is satisfactory. 
IRIS 
Dutch, English and Spanish bulbous Iris are suited for winter 
flowering in the greenhouse. Wedgwood, Imperator, White Excelsior 
and Yellow Queen are fine varieties. They are grown for cut flowers 
in flats or bulb pans. Plant the bulbs during September about two 
inches apart and three inches deep. Water thoroughly and treat the 
same as tulips and narcissus. Start bringing them into the greenhouse 
in November. They grow best at a temperature of 45 to 50 degrees. 
LILY-OF-THE-VALLEY 
Lily-of-the-Valley can be had in flower from January through May 
by successive plantings. It is grown from specially pre-cooled bulbs 
or pips that come from Europe, especially Germany, and sold in 
bundles. Grow them in a box eight inches deep, in a deep bulb pan, 
or in a bench if large quantities are wanted. Sand, peat or sphagnum 
moss may be used as the planting medium. 
The pips are planted with the crowns extending about half an 
inch above the surface. Keep them covered with heavy paper for 
about two weeks, then gradually let them have full light. Bottom 
heat is wanted, about 70 to 80 degrees. The covered propagating 
bench is a good place to grow them. Water heavily during this period, 
tapering off when the flower-buds appear. The pips are useless once 
they have been forced. 
OXALIS 
A delightful subject for pots, hanging baskets, or a border along 
the edge of the benches. Grow in a soil that is light, and feed oc- 
casionally with liquid manure or ammonium sulphate. In the spring 
the plants may be set in the rock garden, where they often bloom on 
until you lift and bring them into the greenhouse in the fall. 
IF YOU HAVE A PROBLEM 
If you have particular questions regarding your garden or 
greenhouse on which you want advice, write us and we will 
do our best to assist and advise you. Frequently we can suggest 
items not listed in the Catalog. 
TRANSPORTATION 
We prepay transportation charges on orders of $5.00 or 
more if East of the Mississippi. West of the Mississippi, add 
10% to the amount of the order. On all orders of Jess than 
$5.00, add 50c for packing and postage. 
Note: Certain orders for heavy shrubs, trees, plants, etc., 
must be shipped by Parcel Post or Express Collect. Fertilizers 
must be shipped Freight Collect. 
TERMS 
Unless you have established credit with us, send cash, check 
or money order with your order. Because of the perishable 
nature of the material, no C.O.D. orders can be accepted. To 
establish credit, send two financial references. No refunds or 
replacements made unless claim is entered in writing within 
five days after receipt of goods. 
After your order has been placed, please do not ask us to 
change or cancel it. During the shipping season several thou- 
sand orders are handled, and it is imposstble to look for any 
one particular order without spending hours of time. 
22 
J. HOWARD FRENCH, Baltimore Pike, Lima, Penna. 
