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of seed and ai little effort without which nothing we do can succeed. After you have 
taken home with you the best seed you can buy—and we stand good for thatthe next 
concern must be the ground wherein these seeds are to be planted. You would not spend 
your money to throw first class seed into just any kind of ground. So here is our advice: 
A good flower bed needs a well-prepared subsoil. Dig deep and make the subsoil right just 
once, and you needn't bother about it again for many years. To get that result, break 
up heavy subsoil with sand, peat moss or humus. Top this off with fine loam. When the 
dug-up bed settles down to its normal level, you can safely entrust your flower seed to 
such a soil and sit back with great expectations. 
HOW TO PLANT SEEDLINGS IN FLATS 
1. Preparing the Soil 
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Sift a mix 
soil, manure, sand and peat 
moss through a 4 inch mesh. 
Do not make the soil too fine, 
small lumps of soil and bits of 
fibrous matter are beneficial. 
Use a notched stick to level soil 
and scrape out surplus. Surface 
of soil should be about 2 inch 
below top of flat. 
7. Loosen Plants in Flats 
When the seedlings are large 
enough to transplant lift them 
out gently with an ordinary | 
table fork or other con- 
venient implement. 
28 
2. Drainage Is Important 
inch space between the boards 
in the bottom of the flat. Cover 
these cracks with coarse moss, 
broken pots or gravel. Observe 
same precaution with pots. 
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Use the edge of a 12-inch ruler, 
large garden label or similar im- 
- plement to make shallow drills 
for the seed. Sow seed evenly in 
the drills. Sift a little fine soil 
over the seed. 
8. Lift Little Seedlings 
Lift the seedling with a notched 
garden label, being careful not 
to bruise or break the stems. 
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3. Filling the Flat 
Place required amount of soil 
in flat. Firm around edges with 
finger tips, then press whole 
area down gently with a wooden 
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Water with a fine spray, taking 
care not to wash out the seed. 
Flats or pots may also be set 
in a shallow pan of water until 
thoroughly soaked. 
9. Transplant Seedlings 
With a pointed stick of suitable 
size, make holes in a freshly 
prepared flat of soil; lower roots 
into hole and firm soil around 
the plants. 
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WHY NOT TRY A ROCK GARDEN FOR EVER VARYING ENJOYMENT? 
to Success With Tlowow 
There 4 a Glower 
for Every Spot 
FLOWERS FOR SHADE 
Balsam 
Butterfly Flower (Schizanthus) 
Bellis (English Daisy) 
Clarkia 
Columbine 
Foxglove 
Godetia 
Nasturtium 
LOW GROWING FLOWERS FOR 
EDGINGS 
Ageratum 
Alyssum, Carpet of Snow 
Violet Queen 
Bellis (English Daisy) 
Blue Cup Flower 
Lobelia 
Nemesia 
Nasturtium, Dwarf Varieties 
Portulaca 
FOR SUCCESSIVE SOWINGS 
Sow these annuals at three-week intervals 
for continuous bloom. 
Calliopsis 
Candytutt 
Bachelor Button 
Larkspur 
Mignonette 
Shirley Poppy 
In planting, or transplanting perennials, the 
soil should be worked free of big lumps 
which create air pockets. The average 
planting distance for perennials is one foot, 
but vigorous growers require up to three 
feet distance from their neighbors. Plant 
heavy-rooted plants with the root-buds just 
below the ground. Plants in which the 
leaves spring from the crown, should be 
planted with crown just at the level with 
the dirt line. Spread roots naturally and 
bring the soil into contact with all the roots 
by pressing it firmly so that no air pockets 
are left. If water is applied, water the 
roots, not the plants. Most perennials must 
be divided every three or four years. Cut 
away all dead roots and stalks and plant 
the best portions anew. 
Pinch ‘em off! If you desire more and bigger 
flowers in your annuals, pinch off the top 
of the stem when they are a few inches 
high, but remove only the end bud, about 
%4" off the top. That makes the plants 
branch out and develop more flower buds. 
As to which flowers should be sown in flats 
and which directly into the ground—con- 
sult our grouping chart on page 31. And 
now good luck, and lots of fun! 
