Eloquent testimony in the case of Centipede ver- 
sus Other Grasses and iw the case of Centi-Seed versus 
Sprigs is found in the above photographic essay. The sod 
above and at the left was produced by Centi-Seed at far less 
cost than the sod at the right which Dr. Thompson sprigged one year 
earlier. Note that the front lawn which was sprigged is still wot comple- 
tely covered. Close examination also reveals furrows caused by the sprig- 
ging operation. Appearance is much better ow the seeded lawn and it is 
also smoother and easier on the mowing machine... veritably the dream 
lawn of millions, yet in reach of everyone. 
present, so even if you cannot find your seedlings, con- 
tinue to mow and water. 
ESTABLISHING CENTIPEDE IN 
EXISTING LAWNS 
Many lawns were originally planted with mixtures of 
bunch-type annuals and perennials worth 10c to 50c per 
pound which sold for $1.50 per pound produced some- 
thing green in a hurry, and ended up an eyesore. Seed 
stcres refer to these mixtures as “wonder” grasses, 
presumably because the owners spend so much time won- 
dering what they have and wondering how to get rid 
Otmeits 
Others were planted with ‘inexpensive’ Bermuda and 
carpet grasses that never produced an attractive sod de- 
spite the owner’s heavy expenditures in effort to get 
them to do so. Some were planted to St. Augustine 
and then destroyed or damaged by chinch bugs and other 
insects and disease. Still others were sold cheap creep- 
ing types grasses called Centipede which were just poor 
imitations. 
Many people who bought one “lemon” have shopped 
around and decided Centipede is the best answer to their 
problem. Centi-Seed make the task of conversion much 
simpler, easier, quicker and less expensive. 
Even though Centipede is more aggressive than most 
other grasses and will usually take them over if enough 
seedlings are established, we think that the conversoin 
method most satisfactory is complete destruction of the 
existing sod by whatever method appears to be the most 
practical. Preparation of a fresh new seedbed and plant- 
ing and caring for the area as recommended in the por- 
tion of this pamphlet dealing with establishing a new 
lawn will give best results. 
The exception to the foregoing recommendation is that 
where a Bermuda sod is removed no fertilizer should be 
used until the Centipede is dominant. 
Attempts at “overseeding” or spot planting with Cen- 
ti-Seed may succeed occasionally but we do _ not 
recommend this or any other half-hearted effort for de- 
veloping a good lawn. Do things right all the way and 
you'll have years of satisfaction ahead when the neigh- 
bors will be admiring and coveting your lawn. 
CARE OF CENTIPEDE LAWNS 
Once established as a solid sod Centipede needs little 
care cther than occasional mowing. It has no specific 
lime requirement and normally will need little ferti- 
lization for several years after development fertilization. 
If it begins to turn brown during dry, hot weather, a deep 
soaking with water will bring it out again and last for 
several weeks. The amount of watering that you need 
do will of course depend upon climate and rainfall, but 
remember that shallow watering causes the roots to 
grow near the surface where they cannot get needed 
plant food, so water deep or not at all. Contrary to 
superstition, the best time to water is in the morning, 
with any time of the day being satisfactory. 
On some very low-fertlity, deep sands a yellow dis- 
coloration has occurred occasionally. This is due to 
the lack of iron, and the treatment is spraying with a 
solution containing 1 teaspoonful of iron sulfate (cop- 
peras) in two gallons of water on each 50 square feet 
of turf, a treatment which lasts several years. 
Any lawn grass not properly cared for will in a matter 
of years become “sod bound,” i. e., it forms such a dense 
mat above the surface of the earth that the roots cannot 
penetrate deeply into the soil as they should. The usual 
symptom is “browning out” and “dying out” and the 
remedy is renovating the sod with a spike roller or by 
punching numerous holes through the sod and soil with 
