A FEW SIMPLE SUGGESTIONS RELATIVE TO 
GLADIOLUS CULTURE 
1. SOIL. The gladiolus is not choosy. Any good soil for vegetables is 
good for glads. 
2. LOCATION. Keep away from buildings, fences, trees, hedges and 
shades of all kinds. Give the glad full sunshine, well drained soil, and 
reasonably loose ground. 
3. SOIL PREPARATION. The same as for any garden stuff. 
4. PREPARATION OF BULBS AND BULBLETS. It is not necessary 
to remove the husks before planting. Do not plant a diseased bulb, or one 
that is scrawny. Plant healthy, solid bulbs. 
5. PLANTING. In light soil plant about six inches deep. Five inches 
is deep enough in heavy soil. Of course they will grow in shallow planting, 
but are more likely to blow over, and wiil not withstand a drought as well 
as in deep planting. Space large buibs about two to the foot, and space rows 
to suit cultivation convenience. Piant bulblets in trenches. two inches deep, 
sow thickly in the row, and cultivate often. 
6. FERTILIZING. Do not overfertilize. That is easily done. Ordinary 
good vegetable soil is good enough for glads. If you want to grow show spikes 
consult a grower who shows. There is nothing better than well rotted barnyard 
manure. Glads needs lots of humus in the soil. 
7. CULTIVATION. No plant is more appreciative of good cultivation, or 
more responsive, than the glad. Keep the soti loose after every rain, and con- 
stantly loose during drought periods. Do not sprinkle — if you apply water 
at all, give the ground a deep soaking, then when dry enough cultivate. Do 
this about once a week or ten days in drought for best results. 
8. FIELD OBSERVATIONS. Keep your eyes open for lost labels, diseased 
plants (those turning yellow and dying), and strays (pull them out). 
9. CUTTING AND CURING THE CUT FLOWERS. Best to cut early 
in the morning and place them in a cool place deep in water for a few hours. 
They continue to open out better if the spikes are occasionally cut back an inch 
or so on the slant, and given fresh water. The tips of the spikes may be cut short 
and put in shallow bowls, thus making a beautiful center piece for the table. 
i0. DIGGING. It is better to dig while the foliage is green, as one can 
then determine the diseased plants and throw them out. The bulbs also lift 
out of the ground better than when the tops have died. Cut the tops off imme- 
diately when dug as close to the bulb as is possible. Let the bulbs dry in shallow 
boxes, not over three inches deep, in an airy, cool place, then remove the old 
bulbs, roots and bulblets. This we call “cleaning.” 
11. STORAGE CARE. Storage care is about the most important part of 
producing healthy, disease-free glads. The bulbs should be thoroughly dried 
as rapidly as possibly after digging. Within four to six weeks they should be 
cleaned. By that we mean, the old bulbs are removed, the dirt sifted out, and 
the’ bulblets taken care of. When cleaned they are then ready for the winter 
storage. The storage should have ventilation to prevent mildewing and the 
development of diseases. There are several serious diseases which develop 
largely in storage conditions if they are not right. Air circulation has much 
to do with the suppression of disease. The temperature should be as nearly 
35 to 40 degrees as is possible. Altho they will keep nicely in much higher 
temperatures. They must be protected against the temperature dropping below 
32 degrees, as freezing destroys the eyes and causes the blubs to soften and rot. 
Too high temperatures are not good as they hasten sprouting, and often dries 
the bulbs until they are as hard as tho petrified. If the temperatures are 
likely to be above the 50’s they should be dusted with DDT of 5% strength. 
ee 
“T bought quite a few fancy and expensive bulbs from —————— (a large, 
reputable grower), and will not buy from him again. Yours are far better 
and not so over described.” (Illinois) 
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