CeO RNC ORD 
Cae Ee Ome Ras GarleA 
Helpful Hints for Fruit-Growers 
The Best Kind of Trees 
to Plant 
Medium-sized, thrifty, one-year-old trees 
are by far the best for all purposes. Old or 
overgrown trees should be carefully avoided. 
In taking up such trees it is impossible to 
avoid cutting off a large part of their roots, 
and in transplanting it is necessary to cut 
the tops back in proportion, to make it live. 
The result is a post, which cannot be expected 
to grow off like a medium-sized tree, with 
practically all its roots and most of its body. 
A smaller tree can be cut high or low, as 
desired, and trained in the required shape. 
Large trees do not come into bearing any 
earlier than smaller ones. Very small trees 
should also be avoided. 
Planting 
Cut back one-year-old trees to 2 to 3 feet. 
Two-year-old trees should have branches cut 
back to within 3 to 4 inches of main stem. 
In planting a market orchard, trees should 
be cut still lower, so head will be in reach of 
sprayer and gatherer of fruit. When growth 
begins, leave 3 or 4 shoots as evenly divided 
as possible; as these grow, train to make an 
open head to Jet in sun and air. 
If a large orchard is to be planted, check 
off rows with stakes or a plow; plow these 
out with a turning plow, making 3 to 6 
furrows to a row, depending on size of trees 
to be planted. If large trees are to be planted, 
follow turning plow with sub-soiler. Where 
trees are to stand, throw in a liberal supply 
of rotted stable or lot manure, or cotton-seed 
meal, and stir well into soil; set tree on this 
mixture and fill with soil, tramping tightly 
with foot. In case hot manure, as fresh stable 
manure, is to be used, put it on top of ground 
after tree is set, and gradually work im soil 
with cultivation. Where a dozen or more are 
to be planted, mark off places and dig a 
hole 3 feet wide and 1 foot deep; fill half 
full of top-soil; then add a liberal supply of 
rotted stable or lot manure or cotton-seed 
meal, or rotted cotton-seed; stir in well with 
soil and set in tree, and fill in with soil, press- 
ing down lightly with the foot. If soil 1s dry 
when planting, use water liberally just as 
roots are partly covered with soil; in this 
condition water will settle soil among roots 
as well as keep them moist. 
Never use caustic manures about roots of 
trees in planting, as it will kill them; this 
can be applied later and worked in soil. _ 
Stake firmly, and protect from rabbits. 
Remove all labels, wire, and cords. Culti- 
vate often with plow and hoe and keep clean. 
The above directions will apply to all 
fruit trees and grape vines, and the same 
principle applies to all trees and_ plants: 
15 
1. €., prepare ground well; fertilize under and 
around the roots liberally, with manure 
that has no burning qualities; then frequent, 
clean culture assures success. 
Culture, Fertilizing, Etc. 
To be most effective, the fertilizers should 
be under and around the roots, and therefore 
applied before tree is planted. Use fertilizers 
that have no caustic or burning qualities. 
Rotted stable or lot manure is excellent; 
cotton-seed meal or rotted cotton-seeds are 
also good. So is bonemeal. 
This should be applied freely and stirred 
well in with the soil, and the tree set on it, 
getting required depth to accommodate tree 
by fillmg in with or taking out a little. 
After trees are planted and start to grow, 
clean and constant culture is needed to keep 
the tree growing freely. Growth can and 
should be kept up all spring and until Jate in 
the summer. 
While trees are young, and until fruiting 
time comes, push them for heavy growth, 
which can be done by applying fertilizers 
and plowing under. 
After the first year, and thereafter, any 
kind of fertilizer may be used to advantage, 
but one thing must be kept in view, i. e., 
for peaches and plums in bearing, heavy 
doses of ammonia should be avoided, as it 
will make watery, poorly colored fruit that 
will not keep or carry. 
For bearing peach and plum trees, acid 
phosphate and potash are best, but where 
soil Is very poor, a little ammonia may be 
added to good advantage. 
For apples and pears a balanced fertilizer 
is best, as stable manure or 6-8-6 guano. 
Spraying 
The importance of spraying can hardly be 
overestimated. Write your state plant board 
for spray calendars and formulas. Because of 
differences n soil and climate it is wise to 
contact your State Entomologist for advice 
applicable to your particular locality, and to 
keep abreast of the newest insecticides. 
Plants to an acre at given distances apart: 
Sx) Olt 45 
CO xOfteteen ee Oo we See ul tees 69 
isc 12 Ee ene 50) ee SO XaOUN tee 48 
LO 1 Oct tet eel Oe) ett eee ny D7 
D0z 20 {tae ee LOSmmEOO-XOOUL truer a1 2 
Dx alte eee OO MSU xs OU tase 9 
Proper distance between trees: 
Peaches, plums, and apricots....... 20 to 25 
Apples, pears, persimmons.........20 to 35 
Figg: tate cape re ne aes fous 12 to 16 
GrapetV inesi. a3 ene ee ao 8 to 10 
Blackberries, Youngberries, etc...... 6to 8 
Pecans ee es ee ie a 60 to 80 
