August 1, 1908 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
Renowaed for his Watches, Jewellery, and Repairs. 
JEWELLER 8: 
ISO GAWLER FPL 
ADELAIDE 
of the plants and cuttings of the rhizomes, 
ie., creeping root-like stems growing 
beneath the surface. Cuttings of the 
canes or small branchlet-like shoots will 
also produce plants. Harly spring is the 
best time to divide bamboos where the 
summer conditions are very dry and hot ; 
the divisions root readily in fairly warm 
soil and become in a measure established 
before the weather is severe. Late spring 
in cooler districts wili supply approximate 
conditions The plants should be fairly 
supplied with moisture during dry weather 
and will benefit by the application of a 
mulch where water is scarce. The treat- 
ment necessary for the cultivation of the 
Arundo donax is practically identical, 
except that less care is necessary generally 
as the plants are nardy and wiil grow in 
soils and situations unsuitable for the 
more delicate bamboos, The whole of the 
class are suitable for planting beside 
water courses. etc., if the aspect is at all 
sheltered from hot winds. 
A number of kinds is procurable from 
the various nurseries in the State. The 
original name, Bambusa, has been retained 
by nurserymen in most ca es. although 
the latest classification refers most of the 
kind to different genera. A few of the 
best of the kinds available are :—Nigra 
(black stemmed bamboo) grown to a 
height of 10 or !5 feet; Metake, also 
known as Japonica, a vigorous kind of 
moderate growth ; Gracilis (Arundlnaria 
falcata) a beautiful drooping kind that 
grows to a height of about It feet ; 
Simoonii, a tall erect grower ; and For- 
tunei, variegated, a dwarf and neat form. 
—Journal of Agriculture, Victoria. 
Notes for the Month. 
During the month of August flowers of 
many kinds should be abundant in all 
gardens where spring may said to begin. 
The johnquils and daffodils, which are 
favorites, and very justly so, with. every- 
one, should be blooming freely. The 
best kinds are now bocoming plentiful in 
the State. All sorts of tender annuals 
may be sown this month, except in those 
districts where very late and heavy frosts 
are likely to occur. Ofthese the follow- 
ing are pretty and well worth growing :— ~ 
Acrocliniums, roseum, album and grandi- 
florium—pretty everlastings. and easy to 
grow ; amaranths (plants relating to the 
DOUGLE-FRINGED PETUNIA. 
coxcombs). The Globe amaranh, which 
bears purple everlasting flowers, classed 
botanically as Gomphrena, is a useful 
plant, and particularly suited for growing 
in a mass. The true caxcomb (Celosia 
‘cristata) bears the well-known peculiar 
flower heads; this plant needs a warm 
situation—indoed, all the family of 
amaranths will thrive best in warm'situa- 
' tions. There are many varieties of 
Celosias, but their flower-heads are more 
open, in fact, become spikes or masses of 
spikes, and these. to some persons, are 
much more preferred than the coxcomb. 
The Antirrhinum or snapdragon is a use- 
ful: flowering herbaceus plant. There 
are numerous varieties, some tall-erowing 
to about 2 or 3 feet, and others are dwarf. 
The latter are very pretty little plants 
and well worth growing in all gardens. 
Obtain some of the many beatiful 
varieties of Irises, including some of the 
Japanese. These bulbous and creeping 
rooted plants will succeed best in moist 
situations, but will flower well under or- 
dinary conditions if they are not allowed 
to become very dry. ‘They need. the 
sun, and will not succeed well in a shady. 
place. : 
If Bouvardias were not planted early 
in the fall they should be planted during 
August or the early part oi September if 
the svil is not too dry. However, 
although the soil may be very dry, you 
can plant if you haye a good supply of 
w ter, and use it in sufficient quantity to 
keep the plants from flagging. Camelias 
may also be planted, as well as other ever- 
greens. Use some shading if the sun is 
very hot at midday. An old shingle or 
two or a little brush will answer very 
well, but the plants should not be over- 
shadowed or else they will become weak 
and may die off. Prune roses and do not 
be afrald to use the knife well, The 
usual advice for pruning roses is to prune 
back hard all those kinds which do not 
make strong growth, but do not prune 
back so hard the vigorous growers or else 
they will produce too much wood at the 
cost of flowers. The first thing to do is 
to cut out clean all dead wood, then if the 
plants seem to be crowded, cut out clean 
the crowded shoots, then cut back the 
remaining branches and endeavor to make _ 
a well-balanced plant anda neat job. To 
be a good rose-grower one must learn 
from experience and observation. Use a 
sharp knife in preference to shears, and - 
do not be afraid of a few scratches from 
the thorns. When the pruning is finished 
gather up all the prunings and burn 
them, then clear away weeds and fork up 
the ground between and around the 
plants. If you are not a good hand 
with a fork, and keep tearing and drag- 
ging up the roots as you dig you had 
better use a sharp spade, for it is better 
to cut the roots than drag and tear them 
about. You need not dig up the ground 
more than 2 or 3 inches deep, and if you 
stick to this depth you will not cut many 
roots. When you have finished this 
work spread a mulch of dung all over the 
bed about 2 or 3 inches deep. If you 
have, say. 50 roses planted 3 or 4 feet 
apart you will require a good deal of dung, 
but, of course, this should be plentiful 
ou every farm. The rose is one ef the 
most fnteresting and beautiful flowers it 
is possible to grow, and the” best kinds 
for general purposes are those known as 
the tea scented and hybrid teas, for they 
will be nearly always in blossom if the 
séed-vessels are cut off as soon as the 
flowers fade away, 
A much admired plant for pools of 
shallow clear water is the forget-me-not. 
As a climber for use outdoors in sum- 
mer the good old Cobsea scandens is still 
appreciated. It grows fast, has pretty 
foliage, and its large bell-shaped flowers - 
-make a great display. 
