July 1, 19u8 
THE AUSTRALIAN GARDENER. 
Fig, 11 
eight secondary branches, the extreme 
points of which are now from 24 to 48 in, 
from the trunk, it will be found that some 
of the branches are stronger than others, 
summer 
and, therefore, during the 
Fig 14 
Fig, 13 
pruning the stronger growing branches 
should be kept in check and weaker ones 
iven more freedom when it will be 
found that the weaker ones will make up 
the ground that they have lost. 
By the end of the third year the trees 
will have put on a good strong growth, 
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A Saat 
wt A SAV ONY, 
Za 
5 
and will be well formed trees, as shown 
by Fig. 16, and will, when cut back as 
indicated, present a good strong founda- 
tion for the future tree, with sufficient 
fruiting wood to carry acrop sufficiently 
large for its age—that is, providing itis a 
tree that reaches puberty at this age. 
Many varities of apples. pears. and other 
fruits will not arrive at the bearing stage 
until they are much older, : 
MULCHING FRUIT TREES &c.. IN 
WINTER. 
We cannot but maintain the opinion, 
based; on many years’ experience, that, as_ 
a rule (there may be exceptions, of 
course, as to every other rule), it is 
unnecessary, and very frequently injnr- 
ious, to mulch hardy fruit trees, Roses, 
etc, with manure during the winter 
The practice is a common one particulary 
in some districts, but that does not prove 
it to be correct, by any means, The 
majority of our outdoor fruits, including 
the apple, pear, plum, cherry, &c.,,are 
perfectly hardly subjects, and -consequ- 
ently they require no protection in prin- 
ciple—in fact, are better without it, in 
most cases. Beyond this, a mulch 
manure, or anything of the kind, excludes 
from che soil around the trees the 
undoubtedly beneficial effects of the air, 
frost, etc., and in the case of a naturally 
heavy or damp staple. frequently induces 
a sour and unwholesome conditiou, which 
is decidedly prejndical to healthy root 
formation and the consequent well-being 
of the tree. Again, supposing that 
nothing of this kind occurs, and the tree 
forms fresh roots freely, the tendency of 
the mulch is to draw these close up to, 
or possibly right up to, the surfice of the 
soil; and when.the mulch is removed, dug 
in, or blown away in. the spring, leaving 
these surface roots bare, the natural and 
only consequence is that they become 
dried up or withered, and probably killed, 
by the drying winds of spring or the heat 
and frequent drought of the early 
euly summer--again to the detriment of 
the trees. Further still, there is nothing 
worse for fruit trees of any kind than to 
disturb their rvots in any way, as by 
digging or forking in, however lightly, - 
such a mulch, in the spring —if anything 
of the kind is done at all, it should be in 
the autumn, and as early as possible even 
then. Lastly, there can be no doubt 
that the proper time to mulch fruit or 
rose trees, etc, if at all, is in the spring 
or early summer, and not in the winter. 
At the former season it checks evapora- 
tion. shields the roots from drought and ~ 
hot sun,as well as feeding them, saves 
watering, and does good, instead of harm, 
in every way. 
16c 
TREES IN DAMP GROUND. 
When asked the best trees to plant in 
wet gronnd the one addressed has not an 
easy question to answer. But ina general 
way, almost all trees will grow in wet 
ground, provided there be a good drainage, 
or enough of it that circulation of water 
goes on constantly. It is wet ground 
from stagnant water that kills trees. Our 
valleys are constant illustrations of this. 
Water may be above ground in some 
seasons, especially in winter, yet trees 
grow there and thrive. In summer, what 
is the heat and the calls for moisture by 
the trees, the soil loses enongh of the 
water that {solid ground appears, into 
which the roots spread. As a rule, these 
trees are surfice- rooting, as will be seen 
when they blow over, which misfortune 
often overtakes them. Then can be seen 
a spread of roots, many feet in length, on 
all sides, but of less than a foot in depth. 
It is an instructive sight and lesson to 
view such a blown-over tree. 1 have seen 
such trees, of immense size, large forest 
trees, with roots extending in a solid 
mass, many feet horizontally on every 
side, but not a foot in depth. , 
It isa trouble to start trees in such a 
situation. The best ,;way is to procure 
rather small trees with good spreading 
roots; set the:n almost on the surfice, and 
cover the roots witi soil procured else- 
where. A sinal tree will not blow over 
easily, and in a few years, sustained by 
the soil placed over the roots, it will form 
new ones, and be in a position to care for 
itself, It need hardly be addeded that it 
is useless to expect trees to grow where 
water cannot drain away. ‘There must 
be circulation—“Florists Exchange ” 
TIME IS MONEY 
Is an old saying, and a true one, when 
every second counts. We read of railway 
accidents, lost opportunities, &c., from 
the school children to the biz business 
firms, we know the result. In order that 
we may not be victims take your Watches 
and Clocks to Franxenberg’s, of Rundle 
Street (next Plough & Harrow Hotel). 
He guarantees all repuirs, and is justified 
in doing so. Having up-to-date appli- 
ances added to his long experience, which 
makes it unnecessary to make further 
press comment ; : 
Answers to Correspondents. 
Livu:an Malvern.— Weed your buds of 
seedlings at once. Delay means seedlings 
‘being chocked out or pulled out along 
with the weeds. We have always found 
that seed pans are better than/sowing in _ 
the boarders. — ares ai 
Rose Tree—Cut hard back before 
' plantiag, only leave 3 or 4 buds on each 
stem. This month is a good time to — 
plant, they require less ca1eat the present 
time than later in the season, -Cut away 
any damaged roots; see that you use a 
sharp knife and make a clean cut. 
