February 1, 1909 
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— flaw fo Resaan « Pergola. = 
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PLAN OF ROSARY AND PERGOLA. Pergola showing Overhead Section at Bottom of Plan. 
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ROSERY AND PERGOLA. 
By David Cole. 
No garden in England is considered 
complete without a pergola, and rightly 
so, for what is more delightful than a 
walk shaded with festoons of Roses, Wes- 
teria, Tacsonias, Clematis, and other 
beautiful climbers trained to the uprights 
and crossbeams. The wonder is that in 
Australia particularly they were 
introduced years ago. In England they 
are generally constructed with rustic 
poles, The ideal place for a pergola is in 
conjunction with a rosary, as shown in 
the sketch. The structure in the sketch 
is my own idea, built for the dual purpose 
of beautifying the garden and to make a 
breakwind by leaving one side all 
latticed. The laths are crossed 4 inches 
apart, which gives room to put the hand 
jhrough when tying up the climbers. It 
also serves the essential purpose of 
allowing the wind to filter through, which 
for many reasons is better than having 
the laths nailed closer together. If the 
position of the garden does not require 
a breakwind another idea is to have the 
‘pergola constructed through the centre 
of the rosary each way to form a 
cross, The sketch given, however, is 
simple, and designed to show what is 
required in making a rosary. 
not 
In the first place, care should be taken 
to adapt the design of a rosary to suit the 
particular piece of ground and surround- 
ings. It must be simply a scroll or 
geometrical to suit the convenience of 
the gardener in moving the hose about? 
and in using the lawn mower. 
cipal feature of the desig: should be to 
make the rosary appear as large as 
possible, with everchanging views to show 
off the beauties and peculiarities of each 
class of rose, such as the Banksias on the 
pergola for breakwind, and for the front 
Cloth of Gold, Devoniensis, Gloire de 
Dijon, and climbing Souvenir de la 
Malmaison, The pillar roses in the 
larger beds should be trained to rustic 
posts with wire netting for tying. Then 
the beds for Moss roses should be well in 
view. Here I may mention that Moss 
roses should always be pegged down. The 
bush is of a dwarf habit growing on its 
roots. Peg the growths down to the 
ground with strong pegs, and each eye 
will break and throw up a flower. By 
bending them over they will throw up 
shoots from the base, which are to be 
pegged down next year, and the old shoots 
or growths cut away. This is the only 
method to make them asuccess, Equally 
careful must be the management of th® 
other roses.as to habit of growth, color, 
&c. The various classes should be kept 
separate if possible, 
A prin- . 
The sketch shows four large round beds 
for pillar roses trained to be rustic posts 
10 ft. high, or on tripods—posts for 
preference. ‘he edging of the plots is of 
Fairies. The two smaller round beds ate 
for the pegged down common Moss rose. 
Prominent corners and centres of beds. 
where large plants are marked on the 
plan, are for strong-growing standard 
roses trained to strong rustic posts 6 tc 
7 ft. high and dwarf roses vlanted in 
between, 
January and February are the best 
months for preparing the ground for a 
rosary. lomake it permanent and a 
thing of beauty for many yoars it must be 
trenched 2 or 3 ft. deep. The bottom of 
the trench must be picked up and manure 
in plenty thrown in with bonedust well 
worked and mixed with the soil as the 
operation proceeds. Care must be taken 
to keep the manure below the first foot 
of surface.soil, otherwise it will be in the 
way of levelling. Manure can always be 
worked in the surface soil afterwards. 
Different soils require some judgment. in 
the matter of trenching, i 
If the subsoil is of a rubble limestone 
I would decide to have gravel walks. Rob 
the walks of the good soil on the top, and 
run itwith a barrow on to the beds. Then 
put the limestone rubble out of the 
trenches on to the walks. The gravel 
walks should be arranged that you can 
